Question about Cars & Trucks
Screwed in pistons- replaced pads rear brakes do not work car has "good pedal" what did I do wrong
The brake system has an equaliser in the line to prevent rear brake lock up when the brakes are applied. It may be jammed from the reverse pressure applied from screwing the pistons back in.. It is a small valve in the brake lines to the rear brakes and can be dismantled for servicing. Other than that may be only the front half of the master cylinder is working and it may be necessary to get both pistons in the master cylinder to work.
Posted on Dec 30, 2013
Testimonial: "Hi, Thank you, I had no idea this part existed. Can I simply stand on the brake pedal to release this valve or must I disassemble and clean it?"
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Spongy brakes 1996 Chevy C1500
You can adjust the shoes outward on the rear by removing the wheels and drums, then above the axle but below the wheel cylinder you will see an arm that is horizontal, pushing both of the shoes outwards. There should be an adjustment nut that you can turn to extend the arm to push the shoes out.
Posted on Jun 01, 2009
both ,push in and turn at the same time ,difficult single handed but with a G clamp?? and snap on water pump pliers to turn it with its a fiddly job but not too difficult ,have you found your chassis number yet??? took me ages to find ---in the boot on the cross member under the floor
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
use a pair of pliers.put each side of the jaws of the pliers in one of the V-grooves of the piston and turn clockwise whle pushing it in
Posted on Nov 04, 2009
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Posted on Jan 30, 2010
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