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How to torque a crush sleeve for nissan frontier 4X4 REAR AXLE

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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pal03246
  • 726 Answers

SOURCE: MY 2005 NISSAN FRONTIER HAS A BAD U JOINT THAT IS

Very common problem. This piece is covered by Nissan for 60000 miles or 5 years. And its most likely one of the front u-joints that failed.

Posted on Jul 17, 2008

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Pattods
  • 116 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 nissan frontier 4x4

Well since the lights are controlled by the OBD (on board diagnostics), you'll have to reset it. You may be able to do this by simply disconnecting the battery for a few hours. However, a lot of newer vehicles have electronically locked radios which require the manual to be able to be re-enabled.

I'd check out the radio before disconnecting the battery.

The only other ways are to physically disconnect the lights in the dash or get someone with an OBD reader to clear the codes.

Posted on Sep 13, 2008

  • 373 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 chevy 4x42500hd

Hi..
On your 05 Chevy 4X4 2500HD.
The Pinion Yoke Nut, 9.75" Axle. the torq spec. is 370 Nm. -- 273 Lb ft.

I hope this help on your question.

Thank you for use fixya...

Posted on Nov 04, 2008

F.U.B.A.R.
  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: two broken lug studs. 07 Nissan titan 4X4.

They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.

Posted on May 03, 2009

  • 538 Answers

SOURCE: torque specs on rear differential

Put it together without the seal in place, you may have to take it apart again. You want to have about 8-10 inch pounds of preload on new bearings, less on used probably just a light drag. I recommend using a 3/4 in drive socket and ratchet and you have to hold the yoke somehow, a pipe wrench works but it's kind of crude. Put a little oil on the bearings and on the threads, if you have a new nut, save it for your final assembly. It's best to have helper because you really have to pull on the wrench to get the crush started. Once the sleave starts crush it gets easier, tighten the nut until the the end play is gone, check it frequently and spin it occasionaly as you tighten the nut. Once the free play is gone and the pinion still spins freely carefully continue to tighten the nut until you feel drag on the shaft. You need a dial type inch pound torque wrench to check the preload not a click type. If you don't have a torque wrench you can do it by feel it should take a little effort to turn the shaft you should be able to turn it by hand. Once you confident you have the right preload you may want to put the ring gear in and check the backlash and wear patern. If you are just replacing the bearings you shouldn't have any trouble. If you are changing the gears you could run into all kinds of problems and may need to seek a pro to help. If the gears are not set up right they will make noise and the gears won't last. Once you sure you have everthing right remove the pinion nut and yoke and put in the new seal. Clean the oil from the threads with brake parts cleaner and put some blue lock tight on the thread. Install the yoke and the new nut using care not to crush the sleave anymore but, at the same time make sure it's tight. I hope this helps, good luck.

Posted on Dec 05, 2009

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