Question about Mazda MX-6
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
bottom rear of engine on the passenger side, the starter is serviced from under the car. it is held to the engine block with two bolts, then u must remove the battery cable and starter solenoid wiring as well, always disconnect the battery before doing any work on the starter.
Posted on May 19, 2009
Hi: Your slave cylinder works like the master cylinder, it has a resevior for fluid and needs to be bleed free from air.
If you're not planning to remove the slave cylinder, I found it easier to use a set of ramps under the front wheels and work under the vehicle rather than jacking it up and taking off the front wheels. Put one end of the plastic tubing on the end of the nipple, the other in the empty jar.
When you have reassembled the clutch hydraulics, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is tightly closed. Now, with the piece of wood within reach, slowly depress the clutch pedal with your hand and hold it down while you prop the wood against it, wedging the other end against the bolt that holds down the left front of the driver’s seat. Next, open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. You may see some fluid, or just a puff of air, or perhaps some of both in the form of bubbles. In any event, close the nipple tightly again. On your way back to the clutch pedal, check the fluid reservoir and top off as necessary. Hold the clutch pedal down with your hand as you remove the wood brace, then slowly release the pedal. When it is all the way up, press it down again slowly and reinsert the wood. Open and close the bleed nipple again. Repeat the entire process as many times as needed until you see a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming from the nipple with no air bubbles. Be sure to close the nipple tightly each time to avoid sucking air back into the system when you release the clutch pedal. And don’t forget to check the fluid reservoir each time.
Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. If it seems okay start the vehicle and put it in gear (reverse if you’ve got it up on ramps). Now take it around the block and roadtest it. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. Re-check the fluid reservoir again after a few hours—you may find that you need to top off the reservoir one last time.
Note: When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid. The first couple of times I opened the bleed nipple, therefore, I pumped the clutch pedal three times in order to make the process go a little faster, because I knew that the first couple of times all I’d be doing was compressing air.
I have replaced both my master and slave cylinders and have found through this experience that you do not need to open and close the bleed nipple. Because of the location of the slave cylinder gravity does the job. Just loosen the slave nipple and let the fluid run out until there is no more air. You might have to pump once or twice but once the fluid starts to move it works on its own. Tighten, nipple and you're done.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
The text below is from the GM Service manual 4.3L V6 Engine
Water Pump Replacement (4.3L)
Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .
Loosen the water pump pulley bolts.
Remove the cooling fan and clutch assembly.
J 46406 Fan Clutch Wrench
Remove the upper fan shroud.
Remove the fan clutch from the water pump in a counterclockwise direction using the J 46406 .
Remove the fan clutch assembly.
Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement Remove the water pump pulley mounting bolts.
Remove the water pump pulley.
Remove the radiator outlet hose clamp from the water pump.
Remove radiator outlet hose from the water pump.
Remove the water pump mounting bolts.
Remove the water pump from the engine.
Remove the water pump gaskets.
Clean the water pump gasket mating surfaces.
Install the water pump gaskets.
Install the water pump to the engine.
Apply a sealer (GM P/N 12346004) to the bolt threads.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.
Install the water pump mounting bolts.
Tighten the mounting bolts to 41 N·m (30 lb ft).
Install the radiator outlet hose to the water pump.
Install the water pump pulley.
Install the water pump pulley bolts.
Tighten the water pump pulley bolts to 25 N·m (18 lb ft).
Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement in Engine Mechanical - 4.3L.
Install the fan clutch assembly.
Fill the radiator cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System .
Inspect the cooling system for leaks.
Posted on Oct 03, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks I appreciate it"
it may be easier to attach the breaker bar to the tensioner arm from under the vehicle to relieve belt tension
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
Radio power switch off, key on but not started. Press "set" station up and scan up will then set minutes and seconds. Press set again when the time is right.
Posted on Dec 18, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Aug 20, 2016 | GMC Sonoma Cars & Trucks
Nov 28, 2015 | GMC Cars & Trucks
Aug 07, 2015 | 2001 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab
Sep 28, 2013 | 1993 GMC Sonoma Club
May 29, 2011 | 1992 GMC Sonoma
May 28, 2011 | 1992 GMC Sonoma
Oct 04, 2010 | 1994 GMC Sonoma
Jun 08, 2009 | 2001 GMC Sonoma Extended Cab
Mar 17, 2009 | 1995 GMC Sonoma
Feb 09, 2009 | 1998 GMC Sonoma
11 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: