Question about Jeep Grand Cherokee
Wondering if hitting the hard pothole tripped an inertia switch for the fuel pump?
Never heard of this switch in the fuelpump circuit. Remove the fuel cap and listen if you can hear the pump when you switch ignition on. The pump will run for 3 seconds when you don't start. Hitting the pothole can have dislodged many things, from relays and connectors to a line.
Posted on May 16, 2014
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
OK...I have a 93 outside...one diagram I have shows an ignition module next to coil...but there is none on mine, (4.0 engine)
Two items to check are crank sensor and cam sensor inside distributor. Test procedure can be found in just about any manual including haynes.
You will need a decent volt/ohm meter to do testing. You can also check codes by turning ignition switch on/off three times, leaving it on the third time. Check engine will flash code #'s (ex: one flash, pause two flashes= the number twelve.then followed by a longer pause then another set of flashes etc.)
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
I apologize for not being able to provide a diagram, and it's been a while since I've replaced a fuel pump in a Jeep like yours, however the fuel pump for that vehicle is located within the fuel tank. You will typically disconnect power from the battery,relieve the pressure from the fuel rail to the injectors. In most cases the test port on the fuel rail has a schrader valve "valve core" like a tire valve, which utilizing a rag to absorb excess fuel you can depress to relieve pressure. You will then have to detach the fuel filler tube and vent tube at the filler neck. With a floor jack supporting the tank ,there should be a couple of bolts holding either two straps around the tank or a large cover that covers and supports the tank itself ,that will need removal. Once you have removed these and you should be able to access the top of the tank. Bear in mind you don't put the fuel pump/sending unit wiring harness or the fuel and vent tubing under too much strain as you lower the tank. you should have enough room to disconnect this wiring and fuel tubing. the tubing will probably have a quick disconnect setup where it attaches to the pump assembly. Once you have the tank on the ground take a suitable (non sparking drift and hammer) to tap the retaining ring that holds the pump in the tank, around the openig to release it. The pump assembly will be spring loaded and the top may pop up out of the tank. Just be sure to protect yourself from any fuel that might spray up. To reinstall can be a slight chore sometimes, as the assembly is spring loaded. It usually goes in with just a slight amount of effort though. Remember to replace the fuel sock on the pump and o-ring seal around the top of the opening. You can purchase just the electric pump, but I'd recommend replacing the whole fuel pump assembly. It will cost more in parts, but longer part warranty and lesser chance of further damaging the assembly are the benefits. Naturally installation is the reverse of removal. I'd recommend a new fuel filter as well, or shortly thereafter. Chrysler factory replacement units recommend draining all the old fuel from the tank and replacing with new fuel (never done that, and with the price of gas, probably won't start) I have never seen an adverse effect from not doing so. I hope this posting has helped.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
get a press fit tool for gas line that removes the line .Mak sure you release the pressure in the line first .which is under the hood on the feul rail looks like a valve stem on a tire .watch your eyes when releasing pressure fuel well spray out hold a rag over it .there are different size tools to release the clips on the fuel filter make sure you get the right size .you can buy the all 5 of them fairly cheap all for under $20
Posted on Feb 16, 2009
Back up a minute...Do you have spark from the coil wire? (juice from coil) If so, change or check rotor and cap (wires do not all go bad at same time so unless they are wet, likely at least good enough to start engine)
Posted on Mar 05, 2009
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