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My walther p22 wont fire

Gun will not fire - Trigger, slide and hammer seem to work properly but gun will not fire. Normal clicking sound only when trigger is pulled. It is as if firing pin does not contact the round.

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Why is this even on cars and trucks... someone is not doing the catagory right.......

Posted on Dec 30, 2013

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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 94 s10 has been back firing and will not start

you timing is off and or your rings are so gone that gas is leaking in to your oil and fouling your plugs

Posted on Sep 21, 2009

  • 174 Answers

SOURCE: when i apply air to my framing gun the firing pin

Try some oil in the gun, they have pneumatic tool oil, they should be oiled daily, though none of us really do this! If that doesn't fix it, it probably needs some new o-rings internally.

Posted on Nov 09, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: machine gun fire under the hood; starter problem or solenoid?

whenever I am under this machine gun fire it has always been due to a slightly loose battery connection.A clout on the negative terminal with a large piece of wood should do the trick. Your headlights etc are probably working ok but the huge amount of power needed to turn the engine finds loose or dirty connections

Posted on Jul 12, 2012

  • 1098 Answers

SOURCE: rattle under hood passenger side

check whether any brake pipes are touching each other,or something loose.

Posted on Aug 27, 2012

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SOURCE: trigger not releasing on browning buck mark

You may have this posted in the wrong product category. Please select another category appropriate to the problem and re-post the problem so the correct expert will see and respond to the question..
This is for car and truck problems related to factory installed systems not add on aftermarket systems.
This post can't be removed or moved, please re-post the question in the correct product category. Thanks

Posted on Oct 18, 2012

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You know that's a bit goofy, right? Only the manufacturer would have such information.

If you are serious, you CAN do it. Begin with an accurate Ohmmeter to measure the primary and secondary winding resistances on a new gun (at Sears, say.) To do that, measure the new gun's primary resistance at the plug with the trigger pulled, of course. Remove the gun's soldering tip and measure the resistance of the secondary without the tip and any incandescent bulb in place. (No need to pull the trigger.)

Hopefully you have some of the burned wire from the old gun. Measure the diameters of samples of the burned primary (thin) and secondary (thick) wires with a micrometer. With that information, look up wire gauge information online. You may need 24 gauge and 18 gauge enamel coated wire, for example. Note: a burned wire will no longer have its enamel coating so take that into account when determining the gauge of the "new" wire.

Note the "Ohms/foot" specification for each wire gauge. Divide that number into the resistance values you measured on the new gun (at Sears...). That will indicate the number of feet of each gauge of wire you will need to rewind the core!

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whenever I am under this machine gun fire it has always been due to a slightly loose battery connection.A clout on the negative terminal with a large piece of wood should do the trick. Your headlights etc are probably working ok but the huge amount of power needed to turn the engine finds loose or dirty connections

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im not sure on this one but i have worked on pressed in balancers and slide on, the slide on have the key way and the press on dont, the balancer can go on anyway, theres no tool, clean the shaft with some emery cloth and the same for the balancer, then if its press on just slide on the crank or hold on the fornt of crank and use a hammer to get it on enough until the bolt can screw in a few turns, then you will use the bolt to drive it back on the crankshaft, an impact gun would do the job. if you dont have a gun then you will need to have someone hold the flywheel with a prybar, stick ythe prybar or big flat head screwdriver into a tooth on the flywheel and lock it form turnning and then tighten the crank bolt until the balancer is on. good day. also apply some permatex to bolt before threding it in to avoid oil leak. good day.

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Harmonic balancer is moving. How can I repair it myself? Can the pulley be tightened?

If the harmonic balancer is moving 99.9% sure it is bad and needs to be replaced. The bolt holding that pulley on is tightened to about 200 ft lbs or more. You may be able to do it yourself but it is a chore and you will need the proper tools. Of course you need to take the belt off but then you need to gain access and usually from the bottom. An impact gun and a compressor that puts out 170 lbs makes it easier but not easy. If you do not have an impact gun then your chances of doing it yourself greatly dwindles as you will need a breaker bar and you will need to have enough room to move that breaker bar. You will not be able to break this bolt loose with a standard ratchet, you will only wind up with busted knuckles even trying. Assuming you are able to get this bolt off, you now need to have a puller as the pulley is pressed in. Again, with the puller, its easier to have an impact gun but this one can be done with a ratchet though you will have very tired arms. Once you get it out, make sure you get the key out of the shaft as well. Your new pulley (balancer) should have a new key with it. These keys don't just fall out either, you may need to carefully tap on it with a standard screw driver. When installing the new pulley, first put the new key in. I would put a little anti-seize on it to help ease it in. You will probably need to give it some gentle taps with a hammer to get it to seat. You do NOT want one end sticking up and the other down farther. Needs to be level. Now align the slot of you pulley with this key and slide it on. You will not be able to slide it on all the way. Your bolt will take care of this part. Tighten the bolt to about 200 ft lbs or if you have an impact gun, run it on. Don't keep hammering on it though. Once the pulley begins to move with it, STOP. At this point your home free, just put the rest back together. If you do not have the tools mentioned, might want to take it to the shop. Might cost you a few hundred dollars but that's only half of what my impact gun cost. Good Luck!!

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