Question about Cars & Trucks
Replace the water pump before you blow a head gasket or 2.
Posted on Mar 13, 2016
Water pumps do not boil but engine coolant systems do from lack of water . Water pumps leak and get bad bearings but the heat comes from blocked radiators-blown head gaskets--cracked heads --fans not working and the vibration is from pistons and rings trying to bind up in the cylinders from over heat situation
Posted on Dec 30, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Water pump is located on the side with all the belts. Find the water pump pully and LOOSEN the bolts that keep the pully on the shaft of the water pump. Once they are LOOSEN remove the belt. Then you can remove the pully bolts the rest of the way. Pully MIGHT be stuck on there, a couple of taps should loosen it enough to where you can pop it off by hand. Now if I recall this vechile correctly, there MIGHT be another pully that will hinder you. It's just easier to take it off right away. It's right above the water pump. I BELIVE it's an idler pully. Dosn't do anything but to help keep the belt on it's correct path. There should be one bolt in the middle of this pully, undo the bolt and pully will pop off. Make sure you REMEMBER how it was on. So that you put it back on the right way. Then, there are 2 or 3 different sized bolts that keep the water pump on. Remove the bolts, one at a time, and make sure you REMEMBER where they went. If you remember now, it will save time guessing later. Ok, once you are sure that ALL the bolts are removed, you can try to pop off the pump. If it dosn't come by hand, use a screw driver to pry a corner up and then do the rest by hand. Once it's off, it's time to clean the motor side of the pump. See, on these cars it's not a complete pump like it use to be, it's a half pump. Meaning, when you look at one side you can see the fins that move the water. Anyways, when you are at the parts store, pick up some emery cloth. It's sort of like sand paper. Well, once the pump is off, use a razor blade and scrape off the silcone that's on the block. Then use the emery cloth to make is nice and clean getting all of it off. Once that's complete, put the new gasket on the pump and reinstall. Put all the bolts in BEFORE tighting them down. And when you do tighten them, do it by hand! Using an air tool will break the bolt or strip the threads in the alunimium block and then it has to go to a mechanic. Once all the bolts are tight fill up the reservor to check for leaks. Also go back over the bolts one more time and make sure all are tight. Doing this now, will save you headace later. Then put the rest of the things back on in the order you took them off. That's it exepct for bleeding the cooling system. I assume you know how to do this, if not, let me know.
Posted on Oct 20, 2008
There's a blower motor (fan) under the hood and up against the firewall near the center of the car that takes some work to remove. It has gone out in the last 2 of my 4 Cadillacs. Turns out if you're not real careful with the positioning of the spark plug wires they will brush up against it, and if one of them gets cracked or brittle it will "arc" and short out the blower motor. The a/c compressor should still come on (you'll hear a click when it engages) but you won't get any air blowing into the cabin, hot or cold.
The part was like $200 stock (year 2000 prices) and it took about an hour to remove it. My Caddy at that time had this damn strut bar going across the engine bay which we eventually removed to get to the blower motor.
Posted on Apr 09, 2009
remove air filter housing,remove secondary air check valve bracket,if equipped,remove lower radiator hose from the thermostat housing,remove waterpump bypass hose, remove waterpump cover,use special tool to remove waterpump,install a new o-ring inwaterpump housing
Posted on May 19, 2009
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