Question about Cars & Trucks
I have a 1997 Nissan Altima GXE and my husband is having a lot of trouble getting the old one out. he says there is not enough room to break it loose. please if you could give us some suggestions I would greatly appreciate it before he blows it up.
Yeah they can be a bit challenging, last one I did I fed a prybar down behind the intake, removed some wires and what not he needs so I could get my hands down and I had to peek through the slots in the intake, but he needs to be careful this way so as not to break it off flush in the block because these sensor's are all plastic and can be brittle, hope this helps chris.
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
Penetrating oil and patients
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
Why are you replacing it ??? Rarely does a knock sensor go bad. it usually goes off because of something else... as for replacing it. you understand why being a mechanic isn't easy as sometimes you have to remove everything to replace something
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Yes. Have him purchase a Haines or Chiltons Manual at Auto Zone or similar store. I have changed 2 alternators on my 95 Altima in my time and I am not an expert mechanic. Also check out:
Pretty good primer for the novice.
I did not remove the belt all the way. Merely slipped it off the old alternator pulley and then slip the new alternator onto the old belt and then tightened/adjust the belt as needed when done.
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
SOURCE: HC & CO% emission
prabhatk8: I am going to run several things by you, OK?
1. If the oil and filter have not recently been changed, it is possible that the high readings are a result of what has collected in the crank case and is being drawn up through the PCV. The contamination is enough to fail the emissions. You did not mention the numbers, so I can only offer suggestions, starting with the simplest solutions and continuing on with more complex solutions.
2. The Ignition timing being advanced can cause the condition you have described, to a certain degree. However, the HC readings, are these being taken at an idle and at above 2,200 RPM ?
3. Nissan also dated their plug wires. If you look at the wires closely, the outer insulation should have the year the wires were manufactured. The insulation is marked about every 6 inches or so. Old wires can cause agrivate a problem like you have.
If the car has the factory wires, they will either have the name "Yazaki" or "Sumitomo" on the wire insulation. These are excellent quality wires! If you decide to replace them, either replace them with the factory (dealer supplied) wires or ones made by NGK.
I have found nothing equal to them in performance and longevity.
Don't go cheap on the ignition parts! Too much of an air gap between the cap and rotor will raise the HC level. Excessive gap on spark plugs or weak spark will also create the condition.
The oxygen sensor can cause the problem, however, don't just replace it because you suspect it may be bad. The part can be tested, but you may not be equipped to do so. Check with Auto Zone or O'Reilley's. They have scanners. Some of these scanners have the ability to monitor the Oxygen sensors in "Real time". Which means looking at them functioning while you are standing there. The sensor is actually a voltage generator which generates milli volts based off of the exhaust passing over it. The more or less oxygen that is present in the exhaust, changes the voltage values which in turn is sent to the ECM to adjust the pulse width of the injectors , keeping the CO and HC within certain parameters.
Technically they refer to it as a "Lamda Window".
(Lamda, Lambda, Lambda and Omega Moo!)( I couldn't resist! For those of you who saw the movie the Revenge of the Nerds)
Sorry...where was I.?.........
4, A false air problem can cause this symptom depending on where the leak is. Check for a small crack or leak in the boot which connects the air mass sensor with the throttle body.
5. The Altima's among other Nissan's had problems with condensation dripping down on top of the ECM's connectors where they plug into the ECM. When they got corroded, this would affect the performance , including EMISSIONS.
PK, I hope this will give you some direction to go in. If the numbers are "real close" In all likely hood, if you change the oil and filter just before you go for the test, you will probably pass.
Tell me what the numbers are, including th e "NOX" figures.
I I know what these are, I can help you more easily. What I am doing here is shooting in the dark!
Good luck and let me know if I have done you any good.
P.S. If you un-plug the connectors at the ECM and they are corroded, there are cleaners you can buy from Radio Shack and the local automotive parts houses. One is for cleaning and neutralizing the corrosion and the other is a dialectic grease which you apply to the connectors afterword's to keep corrosion from coming back.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
remove the intake manifold ,remove radiator ,remove radiator intake and outake housing, remove fan ,remove all belts: power steering, alternator and if you have a/c, remove harmonic balancer ,remove timing belt covers, remove timing belt remove intake housinng once you have remove all the above, your freaken engine will look naked, you can see the location of the knock sensor is locate in the engine valley
Posted on Feb 19, 2010
The knock sensor is underneath the intake manifold on the rear of the engine.
If you got an engine check code from Autozone or some other goof ball company like that go and get a full tank of the highest quality gas and see if that fixes the problem.
Posted on Aug 04, 2010
SOURCE: Knock Sensor (Nissan Altima 2000
it is very simple. if you lay down underneath the car and look up at the oil filter it is just above the oil filter. you should be able to get it out with a 12mm wrench.
Posted on Jul 12, 2011
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