Question about Toyota Sprinter
No code when test and still it show check engine light.
No year, ouch' this is the world wide web. and ..... anyone can post.
what year, 1968-2001
what country? sorry , each country uses different EFI systems
so no country , no joy,. be the first to state country
my hit rate is 1 in 4271. where poster disclosed country car was sold.
there are many scan tools ,(0ld and new)
there are OBD2 1998+ canada cars + means and newer.
and obd2 1996+ cars.
and older OBD1 cars, here. I post for USA only.
and OBD2 2001+ in other countries.
and OBD2 2006+ in yet others, and last china in 2010.
so as you can see, no year & country makes all this impossible.
ill pretend you said,
a real sprinter was only sold in JAPAN JDM market.
or to countries that allow JDM cars as import (not here)
look here and see the vast confusion on sprinters.
and why any poster cant figure this out.
a real sprinter, may use OBD1, or Japans unique JOBD.
i you tell is year, and country we can hook you up with working
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Some vehicles require very specific drive cycles (called "drive traces"
if you perform them on a road simulator or dyno) to activate certain
self-checks like the catalyst and EVAP monitors.
As a general rule, doing some stop-and-go driving around town at speeds
up to about 30 mph followed by five to seven minutes of steady 55 mph
highway speed driving will usually set most or all of the monitors.
Consequently, if you're checking an OBD II system and discover that one
or more of the monitors have not run, it may be necessary to test drive
the vehicle to set the remaining monitors.
You should talk to a good emission tec, if this is not throwing a code, it is hard to say if that one of the components could be bad. O2,pump,convert, HeO2, every part of the emission system.
With a 1000 miles, and doing what is says above just before the test, and ending driving at the test
should be plenty. If it is not, you will have to have each emission part checked, or when the computer
is plugged in it might show a code that did not trip dash light.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
I had the same problem, then took my car to an expert repair shop who diagnosed the sensors and
found no problem with the car. They notified the DMV who was unaware of the problem, who then told the repair shop (John's Bascom Automotive) that they will adjust their computer system to allow a "two speed idle test". My bill was $95 and I still have to pay for a smog test after driving around for
a couple of days to clear the computer monitors, a fair amount and I gladly paid it.
John advised me that I'd get no satisfaction with Toyota or the DMV. I went to the dealership where I
bought the car and they said that the smog stations don't know what they're doing. They charge
about $100 and work around the P0500 code but it takes them about two hours to do this. I told
them that I should have been notified about the dyno none-compatability by Toyota and that Toyota
should have notified the DMV beforehand. I wonder how many speed sensors are being replaced by
unknowing smog shops around the state. I got Toyota's main customer support phone number and
will call them Monday. I'm going to get my pound of flesh ($95 worth) from the DMV next week also.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
SOURCE: Failed Emision test
po442 is evap emission control system leak (small) 1 of the lines for emissions is leaking. po455 is-- emission control system leak (large). turn off light with code scanner after it is fixed.
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
po505 idle air control if this is the code all hondas do it eventully, small problem easy fix u have 2 choices either remove the idle air control motor and clean the inside of it u will find it's black and the spring inside is stuck clean it with carb cleaner or gum cutter any parts store will have this it's a dirty job it will work for awhile but to replace it is recommended its not expensive for a new one which u can get at any autoparts store autozone,advanced,napa etc. there is only 2 bolts in most cases maybe 3 i doubt it though if u go online t google and type in th eyear make and model and engine size in ur case it's a 3.0 v6 and look for idle air control locations u'll find it to do this job a shop will charge u anywhere from 100.00 for diag to retrive the code plus the part and the labor so about 250.00-375.00 it will only take u honestly maybe 15 minutes to perform only tools needed are a 10 millimeter wrench there is only 1 connector to disconnect and ur done if u do this u will still have the check engine light because u have not cleared it from the computer to do this just disconnect the negative battery terminal (the black one or has a neg sign - don't disconnect the positive side +)for 5 minutes then reconnect and the computer will have reset no more light. good luck it really is that easy
Posted on Oct 10, 2009
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