Question about 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

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Need to put refrigerant in the system, but aren't sure where the nipple is to insert the refrigerant.

Where is the nipple for the refrigerant replacement

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Leave this to a pro because of the high pressure side could be dangerous or even fatal when you don't know what you're doing. There is a reason why a tech needs to be certified working on this. It's for your protection when something happens and need to go through legal proceedings.

EX. If something happens while operating the vehicle and caused body injury to you and your passenger and other party. When you go through legal proceedings you would be more protected if the tech that did the repair was ASE Certified for that particular repair that requires it.

It's like brake service, the tech wasn't certified and installed junkyard brake parts. Now you step on the brakes on a rainy day and experience junkyard stopping capability. Would you be able to file a claim from your insurance? Reality bites.....

Posted on May 13, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to bleed brakes


Bleeding brakes is pretty much the same across all vehicles. However, are you sure that there's air in the system and not a faulty brake master cylinder? The brake master cylinder has rubberised 'O' seals inside which, if worn, can cause a spongy pedal that has to be pumped before the brakes feel hard.



To bleed the brakes you need a length of plastic tube to fit onto the brake bleed nipple on the brake calliper. You can buy a brake bleeding kit which incorporates a non-return valve. The valve allows brake fluid to be pumped through it but prevents air from being drawn back up the tube into the brake system.



You can use ordinary plastic tube, but one end should be placed in a container of brake fluid to prevent air being drawn back in.



1. Locate the bleed nipple. Usually you start at the wheel nearest to the brake master cylinder (and then bleed each wheel in turn working your way to the furthest wheel from the car -if necessary).



2. Before you begin:Put a ring spanner onto the bleed nipple. Put a finger over the end of the bleed nipple to prevent air from entering via the nipple and 'rock' the spanner to make sure that the nipple will actually loosen. It is quite common for brake bleed nipples to seize then shear when turned with a spanner(wrench..). Don't use an open-ended spanner (wrench) otherwise the chances are you will 'round off' the bleed nipple.



3. Put the ring spanner on the bleed nipple and fit the bleed tube.

Get somebody to turn on the engine and slowly - slowly - depress the brake pedal. Undo the nipple slightly and brake fluid (maybe with air bubbles in it) should be visible in the tube.



get your helper to pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and keep the pedal depressed. Tighten the brake nipple.



4. Then repeat for each calliper if necessary.



5. Many cars have a split circuit brake system. That is, the front offside wheel is on the same system as the rear nearside wheel. The front nearside wheel is on the same line as the rear offside.



Here, you would bleed the front brake first and then the diagonally opposite rear wheel.








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-1.jpeg

Plastic tube with non return valve for bleeding brake








bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-3.jpeg

Generic image - bleed nipple on calliper.








A bleed nipple. The open end is where the tube fits. Usually, you only need undo a bleed nipple approximately one turn. Use a ring spanner, not an open ended spanner.









bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-10.jpeg



Below: Bleed nipple can be seen on bottom right of calliper (generic image)


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-15.jpeg



Below: Ring spanner on bleed nipple with tube attached.


bleed-brakes-yytlcu2b3evmxr44xdn3gosb-1-21.jpeg

Jan 21, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

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How to Bleed Your Brakes


There are two basic methods of Brake fluid bleeding.
By only one person,using a Vacuum Pump/Brake Bleed Kit.
By two persons,using the pressure of piston at the master cylinder.
Lift up your car with 4 jack stands, and remove all wheels.
In two cases, the most important task is to make sure the bleed nipple can be loosened.
You need a box wrench that fits the bleeder nipple. A little penetrating oil on the nipples overnight will help. If it doesn’t help, apply heat (butane torch or similar) and then spray again with WD40. With some moderate tapping with a hammer to break any corrosion, loosen the nipples.
If the bleed nipples are welded solid in the caliper then you need to have the nipples drilled out and heli-coils fitted by a local engineering workshop.
So it is a good idea each time you bleed the brakes replace the bleed nipples with the new one.
Use at least, High-Performance DOT 3 or DOT4 Brake Fluid.
An unopened can has a long shelf life. An opened can absorbs humidity, and should be discarded within a few weeks.
Fit a piece of clear tubing over the bleed screw nipple and run the hose into a clear bottle. Unscrew the Bleed Nipple about a 1/4 turn and go pump the brake pedal and keep refilling the reservoir before it goes below the 3/4 mark or air will be drawn into the system, close the bleeder.
Torque the bleed nipples to only 30-50 inch pounds (about 3– 5`foot pounds). Don’t forget to put on the rubber caps.
Repeat until clean/clear fluid comes out. Move to the next wheel until all are done.
Depend on what dual braking system your car has, the pattern is different.
Ensure you have a nice firm brake pedal before you take the car off the jacks.
Make sure that you clean up any spills with a rag and ensure that you dispose of your waste brake fluid in a responsible and safe manner.

on Aug 15, 2010 | Yugo Hatchback Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Where is the AC located on a 1995 camry coupe


Melinda,
If you are referring to Refrigerant when you say coolant in your AC, this is a very complicated job and needs special equipment and knowhow to replace it, and it can be dangerous. But if you are up to the task it is a small nipple mounted on the refrigerant line just above the accumulator that look like a soup can situated right of the radiator and in front of the battery.

Jul 07, 2014 | 1995 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

How to change clutch slave cylinder 2004 ford transit


Locate the cylinder on the gearbox bell housing. Clamp the flexible fluid feed hose to the slave cylinder, reasonably close to the cylinder. Disconnect the feed pipe to the cylinder, remove the cylinder's location bolts, and remove cylinder. Reverse process for reinstallation.
Once installed, open up the cylinder's bleed nipple, attach rubber hose (preferably clear type) and feed into a clear bottle. Open the master cylinder's reservoir cap and brim with clean fluid (usually brake fluid DOT 4 will be fine, unless stated otherwise on the cap)
Now it's easier if you have help pumping the clutch pedal as you will have to depress the pedal and clamp the bleed nipple, raise the pedal. Depress the pedal and open the nipple. Close the nipple and release the pedal. Keep repeating this procedure whilst continually topping up the reservoir and until the fluid coming out of the bleed nipple is clean and free from any air bubbles.
On the final depression of the pedal, lock the bleed nipple, release the pedal and then pump it a few times and judge the feel and travel of the pedal.
If the pedal is still only close to the floor when operating the clutch, then you likely still have some air in the system and should repeat the above steps.
If adequate pressure is available and the clutch operates well, then your job is done.


Be aware that brake fluid eats into paint and many types of plastics over time, so once you are done, then rinse any areas with water only, which came into contact with any spilled fluid.


Tada! You've finished! Road test the vehicle to be sure of a good successful job. Recheck the fluid level after a few hours driving to make sure you haven't any leaks and aren't loosing fluid.

Nov 07, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to put in freon


First buy one of the Auto Pro Refrigerant units with coolant and guage together at an Auto Parts store. you must locate the" input valve on the cooling line..should have a nipple on it,that screws off . There are 2 but product and guage only fits one. Unscrew can from guage and remove safety tab.....RE_screw can back on too gage making sure it is tight enough to puncture can. 4 clocklike hands on guage,,set the smallest arrow to approximate outside air temp. Push end of refrigerant hookup connector onto imput "nipple".. start car,,turn A/C on max cool............pull trigger on refrigerent unit,,,,shake and roll can slightly...when you release trigger,the gauge will indicate how much you have charged it...if completly empty,it will take about one half can,before compressor cluch begins to turn...squeeze release....squeeze,,release until pressure had indicate charged.

Jun 07, 2012 | 1997 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

Brake bleeding


You could get yourself a brake bleeding kit. Otherwise you need a short piece of hose to fit on the bleed nipples on the callipers, a small container to catch the fluid that is being pumped out and someone to work the brake pedal. Fill the brake cylinder, start at the wheel furthest from the brake pedal. Fit the hose to the nipple and loosen the nipple. Put the other end of the hose in the container with a little fluid in it so that no air is sucked back into the system. You helper pumps the brake slowly until all the air is removed, this can be seen by the bubbles coming out of the hose at the wheel. Hold down the brake and close the nipple.
Repeat all this on each wheel in turn moving towards the nearest wheel to the brake. Make sure that the cylinder does not run out of fluid.

Jul 31, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado

1 Answer

Where do i add freon for my air conditioner?


Low pressure side of system. should have blue or black cap on lines to A/C.follow lines from compresser.If not sure maybe you can get a shop like auto zone to maybe give you an idea.They will help You out if you bougt the equipment to charge it with.It should be 134 refrigerent.look to spend 20 or 30 $for one with a pressure guage!DO NOT try to put it in high pressure side. nipple should NOT fit on that one tho. Just be carefull !Car needs to be running & A/C on fully to charge it. Hope this helps.

Jun 14, 2010 | 2001 Dodge Stratus

1 Answer

Brake problem


hi this is air in the system if you pump them do they go hard as normal? what you will need to do is , starting from the furthest caliper away from the fluid bottle you have to bleed the air out, you can buy bleeding systems for a few bucks/pounds but you can also do it yourself, to do this, find a length of small bore clear hose/pipe, locate the bleed nipple on the caliper, find a wrench/spanner that will fit the bleed nipple, put that on first, then get your pipe/hose, and slide that over the end of the bleed nipple ( make sure the pipe/hose is a nice tight fit ) locate a small clear glass jar partly fill it with brake fluid, put the hose/pipe into the jar so the fluid covers the end ( we don't want air to go up the pipe/hose ) then get a friend to pump hard on the brake pedal till it goes hard, and when it does tell them to keep their foot hard on the pedal , you then undo the bleed nipple ( you should get some fluid come out fast) when the pedal reaches the floor ( this happens immediately if you have opened the nipple far enough, then when it has hit the floor do the bleed nipple up again before they raise the pedal keep doing this till you see no bubbles coming through the hose/pipe, repeat the operation on the next furthest away, and so on till all the air has been removed from the system, be sure to check the fluid in the reservoir regularly as this will cause air to get back into the system again if it runs to low....hope this has helped and good luck, please vote thanks

Mar 20, 2010 | 2002 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Cant find Low pressure AC port


Did you check the acumulator? There is a port on it, that is the low side port. Keep in mind that if you have to recharge the system it is because other parts need service (leak in the syst) and whatever refrigerant you put in it will leak out again. The system may work temporarily or may work inefficiently. Also may sure that there is oil in syst.

Aug 02, 2009 | 1996 Buick Skylark

2 Answers

Changed slave cylinder 92gmc 1500 have no pedal


Hi: Your slave cylinder works like the master cylinder, it has a resevior for fluid and needs to be bleed free from air.

If you're not planning to remove the slave cylinder, I found it easier to use a set of ramps under the front wheels and work under the vehicle rather than jacking it up and taking off the front wheels. Put one end of the plastic tubing on the end of the nipple, the other in the empty jar.
When you have reassembled the clutch hydraulics, refill the clutch fluid reservoir, make sure the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder is tightly closed. Now, with the piece of wood within reach, slowly depress the clutch pedal with your hand and hold it down while you prop the wood against it, wedging the other end against the bolt that holds down the left front of the driver’s seat. Next, open the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder. You may see some fluid, or just a puff of air, or perhaps some of both in the form of bubbles. In any event, close the nipple tightly again. On your way back to the clutch pedal, check the fluid reservoir and top off as necessary. Hold the clutch pedal down with your hand as you remove the wood brace, then slowly release the pedal. When it is all the way up, press it down again slowly and reinsert the wood. Open and close the bleed nipple again. Repeat the entire process as many times as needed until you see a solid stream of clear brake fluid coming from the nipple with no air bubbles. Be sure to close the nipple tightly each time to avoid sucking air back into the system when you release the clutch pedal. And don’t forget to check the fluid reservoir each time.
Check the clutch pedal with your foot to see if you have normal pressure. If it seems okay start the vehicle and put it in gear (reverse if you’ve got it up on ramps). Now take it around the block and roadtest it. If all is not right, you’ve still got air in the system and will have to bleed it some more. Re-check the fluid reservoir again after a few hours—you may find that you need to top off the reservoir one last time.
Note: When I did mine, I had let the system drain so I could flush out dirty fluid. The first couple of times I opened the bleed nipple, therefore, I pumped the clutch pedal three times in order to make the process go a little faster, because I knew that the first couple of times all I’d be doing was compressing air.
I have replaced both my master and slave cylinders and have found through this experience that you do not need to open and close the bleed nipple. Because of the location of the slave cylinder gravity does the job. Just loosen the slave nipple and let the fluid run out until there is no more air. You might have to pump once or twice but once the fluid starts to move it works on its own. Tighten, nipple and you're done.

Jul 27, 2009 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

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