Question about 1984 Honda Accord

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I'm having a hard time getting the alternator out of my car

The alternator doesn't want to come out between the carberator, master cylinder, and some other component on the firewall of my car

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The alternator comes out the bottom, you need to remove the L/S driveshaft, and the bottom alternator bracket. Good luck, Honda Al

Posted on May 19, 2009

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The front drivers side break keeps locking. I have replaced the caliper and now when I pump it no fluid is coming out from the line.


Did air get into the master cylinder? If you can, try bleeding the master cylinder. The fact that you aren't getting any fluid out of the line suggests that the master cylinder isn't pumping fluid.

Master cylinders are (usually) on a split circuit system - that is, the front left brake is on the same line as the rear right. The front right brake is on the same circuit as the rear left.

A point to be aware of is when bleeding brakes/doing brake work and if the master cylinder runs dry, is that a seal inside the master cylinder can fail/twist over and not pressurise that particular line, even though it may pressurise the opposite brake line.

I'm in the UK. I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4 litre, which I am slowly rebuilding. Three weeks ago I fitted new front brake rotors, new front callipers and pads. I've been rebuilding cars for over 40 years now and have done countless brake overhauls.

.. and could I get a hard pedal after the job was completed? I must have bled the brakes three times a day for a week and couldn't get a brake pedal. I phoned a full time mechanic I know - he came and tried to bleed the brakes three times and couldn't get a hard pedal.

That's when you think 'The master cylinder was working before I started the job so it must be still working now'.

I fitted a brand new master cylinder and because some parts for older jeeps are hard to come by in the UK, I fitted a second hand proportioning valve. When I bled the brakes again the pedal became rock solid. Fixed.

You're probably fed up with your braking problem now ... and apparently this 'no fluid/brake pedal' is more common than you may think.

Try bleeding the master cylinder if you can. If you suspect that it isn't fully working - try an overhaul kit which is cheaper than a new master cylinder.

As for changing the proportioning valve .. that's your decision. My brakes now work though the truth is I don't actually know which was at fault as I changed both the master cylinder and proportioning valve at the same time. Maybe both were at fault, for whatever reason. I genuinely don't know.

The positive aspect is that you are doing your own work and know what you're doing. You're saving on labour charges.

Apr 18, 2016 | 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan

1 Answer

85 nissan pickup sat for 3 years and now clutch pedal has no pressure Tried to bleed many times but still no pedal? Please help thanks


Check for any visible leaks at the slave cylinder and the master cylinder. You may have seals that are bypassing in the master cylinder from sitting so long as they will get hard and fail. If no leaks found,suspect a defective clutch master cylinder

Oct 04, 2015 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What other cars are interchangeable with a 1999 mazda 626


Purchase a rebuild kit or go to a wreckers and buy the complete master cylinder / booster.. One of the problems with getting a kit is that the master cylinder piston may need to be skimmed on a lathe to get it perfectly smooth and round again, and may need undersized seals and o rings. Probably easier to get the assembly from a wrecker. Alternatively, I would suggest go to a brake specialist. Brakes are too important to play with.

Sep 17, 2015 | Mazda Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2002 bmw 325i E46. I do not have a full brake pedal unless I pump the brakes a couple times. If I slam on brakes hard, the brake light comes on the dash. The brakes have been professionally...


It is quite possible to get a bad (new) part. Sounds as if you have a bad check valve in the master cylinder. I have bought brand new masters which had this problem and torn them down to find that some yahoo left the entire check valve out when assembling the cylinder.Also possible you have a bad brake hose (rubber part).

Dec 19, 2014 | BMW Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When the truck is drvien awhile the clutch doesn't seem to engage all the way. Making it difficult to shift or put in reverse.


Your truck is most likely equipped with a hydraulic clutch system. When you depress the clutch pedal.. how far down do you push before you feel some pressure?..
1. There are 2 main parts to the system. The master clutch cylinder which is located right in front of the driver and the engine firewall.
2 The other part is the slave cylinder which is located on the side of the transmission underneath the truck.

Check the little tank or reservoir on the master cylinder first.. make sure there is plenty of fluid.. If it is low then you have a leak somewhere in the system. If you can pump the clutch pedal a few times and it seems to get better... then your system is bleeding fluid back through. I would recommend replacing both parts at the same time if it comes to this. The parts are not that hard to replace.. but sometimes getting the air out of the system can be difficult.. good Luck..

Aug 18, 2011 | 1996 Ford F250 Crew Cab

1 Answer

How do i get the alternator out from behind kh laser motor


You will need to undo the brake master cylinder attach bolts first - do not undo the fluid lines. Move the master cylinder to one side without breaking fluid pipes, and you will be able to get the alternator out past the master cylinder.

Jul 10, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Where is the fuel pump at.1985 dodge ram 150 4x4


This truck is probably carberated, if I remember correctly the fuel pump is the drivers side of the engine. You can see it just forward of the carberator, it is secured to the cylinder head by two 12 mm bolts. It has one inlet hose and two that go to the carb...I hope this helps

Mar 22, 2011 | Dodge Ram 150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have excessive brake travel, and a hard time 98 chevy blazer


Two issues...
The brake booster has a ruptured diaphragm. Replace the booster.
It is located under the hood between the brake master cylinder and the firewall.

Your master cylinder may be leaking fluid internally past the plunger.
Have it examined when you change the booster.

Oct 12, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet Blazer

1 Answer

Replaced alternator 3 time and today the car wouldnt stop the brake was hard and i couldnt push down on it and the car kept rolling. Now the car is sitting on the street and wont start? When it starts the...


Stopping problem is totally unrelated to alternator. There should be a rubber hose between the engine and the brake booster behind the master cylinder. Make sure that it, as well as any other vacuum hoses are connected. If you can get it running, listen for loud sucking sound from leak.

Aug 04, 2009 | 2004 Kia Spectra

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