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Battery ground new altinator not charging the battery.Car will run and function till the battery gets to weak to run it.I used a voltage tester and battery got weaker and weaker until car turned off around 5 volts.

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Hi Kurt, I'm glad to help!
Kurt, we need to first check the "FUSABLE LINK" that powers the Alternator. The link is usually a larger GREEN WIRE and either attaches to the battery cable OR attached to the Alternator. It is in different places depending on manufacture. When you find it you need to free it up so you can grab it and pull real hard. NOTE: If it get longer then its bad and needs to be replaced. If it doesn't get longer then check all related fuses and relays if applicable. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Kurt.

Posted on Jul 03, 2014


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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: battery isn't charging

here ya go check for power to the alternator good luck ............ justuscc Charging & Starting System Wiring Circuit - VIN K 41908702

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

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SOURCE: 1999 ford escort zx2 alternator works brand new battery but battery isnt charging !


May I suggest that you drive your car to one of the major auto stores and they can and will check your alternator for you to make sure it is good/bad.These places like AutoZone do this all the time. They do not charge for the check out. (Of course they are hoping that if you need a part you will buy it from them.

One other suggestion. If you do need a new alternator, get a rebuilt one. It is cheaper and most always comes with a warranty.

Hope this helps Good luck Loringh PS please take a moment to give me a rating

Posted on Nov 09, 2008

  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: charging problem 1991 volvo 240

14.6 means your voltage regulator or diode is suspect Despite having new alternator .Ive cross refrenced your smptoms in the haynes workshop manual and alternator is your only end answer.The haynes test is to start vehicle with multi meter connected across the battery terminals,increase the engine speed until the reading remains steady should be approximately 12 to 13v and no more than 14v.switch on as many accessories as possible(headlights heater blower radio etc)check that the alternator maintains the regulated voltage at around 13 to 14v.If the regulated voltage is not as stated then alternator is to be repaired/replaced.Good luck with it and a happy new year.

Posted on Dec 29, 2008

  • 257 Answers

SOURCE: Weak battery - 2007 VW EOS

I don't think it's a battery. The ticking noise along with the dead battery leads me to believe you might have a belt/pulley issue. The serpentine/accessory belt and pulleys are all part of your charging system. It's how your alternator charges your battery. If there's something up with one of the pulleys or the belt (slipping?) in that system then your battery isn't going to charge properly. I have 6 yrs and 225,000m on my original battery in my Jetta - although I have a new alternator because the pulley fell off of mine...

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

  • 74 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Pontiac Vibe with 110,000 miles. Over a three

When you say the battery has a full charge, what voltage are you reading? 13.2 volts for a 12 volt battery (2.2v per cell x 6 cells). The solenoid is the usual suspect. My dad had a truck that occasionally wouldn't start and he wacked the starter solenoid with a crescent wrench and then the engine would turn over fine. The facts are that the solenoid is nothing more than a moving contact big enough to carry all the juice the battery can dish out. Over time the contacting surfaces wear away. The worn away contact material doesn't escape the housing, so the solenoid housing fills with dust. Dust impedes the movement of the contact. Wack the solenoid with something like a hammer or wrench like my dad did. One thing though - be careful not to short out anything or hit hard enough to dent the housing. If the wack does the trick, then thank my dad...

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

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1996 LeSabre custom won't start. Turned key to start and lights on dash came on, car cranked momentarily the all lights on dash and entry went out and not a sound when turn key to start. This happened...

Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good. Voltage and ground are both important. You could use a test light on the fuses in the fuse box to check for voltage. Some fuses are hot all the time, some go hot with the key on.
You may have to check feed to and from ignition switch.

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Put in new altinator onlly reaing 10 volts

With the motor running, the voltage reading at the battery should read between 13.90 & 14.80.
Get a good fuse tester, test each fuse with the ignition switch in the " on " position. most fuses can & should be tested while still in the fusebox. There are fusible links in the fuse/relay box under the hood that are the main source for the alternator to charge the battery. the fuse tester may not work with these. they will need to be visually inspected with a flashlight & or glasses. They may have a see-through top to see if they are blown or not. Use the tester for the normal fuses. There is a fusebox on the left side of the dash that needs to be checked also.

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if you have a bad altinator it will drain your battery causing the enguine to stop running. and if you killed the car that was jumping it then i def would get the altinator tested on both cars as jumping a car with a bad altinator can cause charging issues on the car doing the jumping.

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My 99 Jag xj8 turns over slow with a battery thats ok. like it is dragging, the car has been in the garage for months now. only has 58000 miles on it.

ok, just because the battery is cranking over, does not mean that the cell inside the battery are not weak. they will always take a charge. but as to how long they will keep that charge is the problem. all 12v systems are as follows so check yours.

all should have no more than 14.5v during a charge(engine running) anymore it will fry not only the battery, but other componets as well.

all should have no less than 12v with the engine off, and a load test of no more than 15sec, and a drop of 10v or higher should be present.

with a good battery and alt, there should be a drop in voltage no less than 8v during a start crank, and after it starts it should rapidly return to a 12.5v to 14.5v charge. I suggest to have the battery and altinator tested for a load, and cell state.

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Turn ignition key and just get click from soliniod under front hood one white wire and one black wire and dash lights go out,new batt and starter fitted

here are a couple of quick easy thing to do to isolate what the problem is. if your battery is new and fully charged. then take a set of jumper cables and put one clamp on the negitive post of the battery and its corresponding clamp on the alternator bracket on the motor this will insure that you have a complete ground which you need to ingauge the starter. in dc current the amperage is constant and the voltage is variable. a good ground is needed.
if the charge in your battery is depleted jump the car to get it started. then remove the positive cable from the batteries possitive post if the car stays running then the altinator is charging this illiminates the alternator from being the problem. if the car stays running its good if the car dies then the altinator is bad and needs replaced.
check the wires hooked to the starter to make sure that they are not gounding out on the block or the exaust.

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Idle is to low,or the alternator is not charging enough.It needs to be 13.65 volts,to 14.25 volts at the battery with the lights on,and high blower on.If it is lower than this,replace the alternator.

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Battery terminals, when car is off, should read 12V+-.2V. When the car is running, terminals should read 13V-14V=-.2V

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try the altinator
run the car take positive of if the car runs altinator is good
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