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Knocking engine 2004 hyunda elantra

The noise disappears when under light acceleration or deceleration and does tick at idle.

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  • Hyundai Master
  • 1,727 Answers

Tick or knock ???

tick could just be valve train noise that either could be adjusted out or live with it

engine knock, well hopefully you dont have payments

Posted on Dec 29, 2013

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: ticking noise and low oil pressure

DOES IT HAVE A LOT OF MILES ON IT OR MAY BE THE OIL PUMP IS IS GOING OUT? THERE IS A SPRING IN THE PUMP THAT IS A BYPASS FOR HOW HIGH PSI IT MAY HAVE BROKE THAT WILL GIVE YOU LOW PSI.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Noisy engine idle and stutter at low or high speed

I had the same problem (X-type 2.0d 2004). The stutter was cured on mine by getting the ECU fashed with the latest firmware. This is a known problem and the update does cure it (£28), I didn't bother with all the tests the garage wanted to.
The noisey engine at idle is the alternator belt. It resonates at idle and causes the noise, There is a modified bottom pulley, tensioner and belt kit, but it is rather expensive ~£200 plus fitting (around 4 hours labour). Mondeo's have the same problem but that kit doesn't fit the Jag.
Hope this helps
KB

Posted on Mar 16, 2009

co7196
  • 3433 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Nissan Quest - Engine chatter/knocking

Ther e is a chance your injectors are leakin g down and there is excess fuel in the cylinders. Not a good thing. So, you fuel pressure and injectors need chkg. good luck

Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 167 Answers

SOURCE: Loud Ticking sound 2004 F150

Check the Alternator / Powersteering belts .
One of them will be damaged and loose.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: engine or transmission knock / rattle upon

I had the same problem on my 2006 Lucerne and it was the engine mount located on the front of the vehicle behind the radiator.

Posted on Aug 24, 2009

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2 Answers

Kia sorento 2012 produce sound look like power steering problem and it gets louder when ever I acceleration gear, so I took belt out and start the engin with no belt I found that sound was in engin!!


If its a knocking sound:

A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 15, 2013 | Kia Sorento Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2008 oil leak and engine ticking


An engine used oil for lubrication and colling. If there is no oil then there is no lubrication. No lubrication means lots of heat and friction. Is it a ticking or banging noise? I do believe it is an ohc engine so it couldnt be a lifter ticking. It is probably a rod knocking. It so then it will more than likely need an engine

Mar 18, 2013 | 2008 Nissan Sentra 2.0

1 Answer

Engine ticks over but no acceleration



ENGINE HESITATES WHILE ACCELERATION

LOSS OF ACCELERATION


It can be fuel pressure issue or it's the problem with accelerator pedal or its clogged filters causing there.

There are many other possibilities. I suggest you to go through the list of help links mentioned below, these will help you to confirm where the actual fault lies: -------

Jerks and Hesitates During Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/07/2004-dodge-town-country-jerks-and.html

-----------

Loss of acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

---------

Headlights flickering and car hesitates to start?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/headlights-flickering-and-car-hesitates.html

--------

How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

-------------

How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

--------

2000 Toyota Avalon: Engine Lean Codes and Knock Sound on Acceleration?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2000-toyota-avalon-engine-lean-codes.html

---------

2004 Toyota Avensis: Acceleration And Deceleration makes noise on Front End?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2004-toyota-avensis-acceleration-and.html

---------

Wheel hop under hard acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/wheel-hop-under-hard-acceleration.html

--------

2009 Chevy impala accelerator pedal sensor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

---------

Nissan Pathfinder stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

--------

Acceleration lag problem?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

-------------

These details will help.

Thanks.

Feb 04, 2013 | 2007 Kia Magentis 2.0

3 Answers

When maintaining speed of about 50mph,2004 pacifica hesitates and will cut off while in park sometimes.check engine light is not on


ENGINE HESITATES WHILE ACCELERATION

LOSS OF ACCELERATION


It can be fuel pressure issue or it's the problem with accelerator pedal or its clogged filters causing there.

There are many other possibilities. I suggest you to go through the list of help links mentioned below, these will help you to confirm where the actual fault lies: -------

Jerks and Hesitates During Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/07/2004-dodge-town-country-jerks-and.html

-----------

Loss of acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

---------

Headlights flickering and car hesitates to start?

http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/headlights-flickering-and-car-hesitates.html

--------

How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

-------------

How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

--------

2000 Toyota Avalon: Engine Lean Codes and Knock Sound on Acceleration?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2000-toyota-avalon-engine-lean-codes.html

---------

2004 Toyota Avensis: Acceleration And Deceleration makes noise on Front End?

http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2004-toyota-avensis-acceleration-and.html

---------

Wheel hop under hard acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/wheel-hop-under-hard-acceleration.html

--------

2009 Chevy impala accelerator pedal sensor?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

---------

Nissan Pathfinder stalls and bucks on Acceleration?

http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

--------

Acceleration lag problem?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

-------------

These details will help.

Thanks.

Nov 28, 2012 | Chrysler Pacifica Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine hesatates when accellerate


It can be fuel pressure issue or its the problem with accelerator pedal or its clogged filters causing there.
There are many other possibilities.I suggest you to go through the list of help links mentioned below,these will help you to confirm where the actual fault lies:-------
Jerks and Hesitates During Acceleration? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/07/2004-dodge-town-country-jerks-and.html
-----------
Loss of acceleration? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/loss-of-acceleration.html

---------
Headlights flickering and car hesitates to start? http://howtobyme.blogspot.in/2012/02/headlights-flickering-and-car-hesitates.html

--------
How exactly the Vehicles Accelerator Cable works?

http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-cable.html

-------------
How exactly Vehicles Accelerator Pump Diaphragm Works? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2011/11/how-exactly-vehicles-accelerator-pump.html

--------
2000 Toyota Avalon: Engine Lean Codes and Knock Sound on Acceleration? http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2000-toyota-avalon-engine-lean-codes.html

---------
2004 Toyota Avensis: Acceleration And Deceleration makes noise on Front End? http://whatisbyme.blogspot.in/2012/05/2004-toyota-avensis-acceleration-and.html

---------
Wheel hop under hard acceleration? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/04/wheel-hop-under-hard-acceleration.html

--------
2009 Chevy impala accelerator pedal sensor? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/2009-chevy-impala-accelerator-pedal.html

---------
Nissan Pathfinder stalls and bucks on Acceleration? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/nissan-pathfinder-stalls-and-bucks-on.html

--------
Acceleration lag problem? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/acceleration-lag-problem.html

-------------
These details will help.
Thanks.



Nov 23, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

04 Deville with Ticking noise


Is it under the hood, In the cabin? Vehicle speed related? Engine speed related?

Nov 18, 2017 | 2004 Cadillac Deville

1 Answer

I have a 2007 1500 suburban with 5.3L ''Still under warrenty'' When I decelerate then accelerate, the engine valves clatter, should I hear any at all or maybe the question is how much is normal


Is it valve clatter or spark knock. You should not have any valve noise or knocking noises from the engine. Has the service engine light ever come on.
You can have the Suburban scanned at your local Auto Zone or Advance Auto Parts free of charge.
Let me know.
Regards,

Apr 10, 2009 | 2007 Chevrolet Tahoe

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