Question about 1995 Ford Escort

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I have a 95 Ford Escort GT 1.8 5 speed manual. I have had this problem since I had to go through Aircheck Texas to get the emissions fixed to pass state inspection they fixed it to pass inspection got the sticker, but when I picked up my car it runs worse than when I took it in. I had it back for about 3 or 4 days an it just shut off an it would crank but not start I checked no spark from the coil to the distrubtor since I have replaced the coil ing module an the PCMpower train control module today it started up an run good for a few minutes an just shut off will crank but will not start. Now when it started up it ran good at all ranges, I did not drive it any where since it had shut off before with me about 3 blocks up the road. Anyway it just shut off will crank but not start. I am a retired auto mechanic I retired in 95 I have checked all fuses an they are all good an I have a ford Escort 95 shop manual wireing an vacum diagrams but can't find an answer.

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  • rob_earl May 19, 2009

    I bought a ign module that was tested along with the coil both the coil and the module were tested an guaranteed to work an I replaced the pcm with a known working one. Now it run good for about 5 minutes an then just shut off as if you turned the key off but I did not, when it run it runs goodfrom idle on up just fine it just shuts off for no aparent reason. I am a retired auto mechanic of over 30 years I retired in 1995. I have checked al the fuses under the dash an the fuse box under the hood an all fuses are good. I had to run it through AirCheck Texas to get the emissions fixed as I am edgilble for this program in Texas. when I took the car to get the emissions fixed the car run real good I had just put a new set of Denoso spark pluge in it and it run real good. When I picked it up the car did not run as good as when I took it in but they did get it inspected for me an it only cost me $30 copay the state took care of the rest. I just figured I would take care of it myself but ran to this just shutting off for no reason. Like I said when it runs it runs real good except it just shuts off. Once it shuts off there is no fire from the plug wires or out of the coil, I held the coil main wire that goes to the distributor but no spark. Its just like something shuts off but I can't figure out what is braking the connection.

  • rob_earl May 19, 2009

    I had had no problems with my Escort till I went through AirCheckTexas, not the program but with the faculty I took the car to as I said it run real good when I took the car to the garage but when I picked it up it did not as good as when I took it in an I do not want to take it back to that place. Now when it does start up an run it runs good for about 5 or more minutes then its just like you turned the key off it just shuts off with no warning. when I got it running it runs real good an it just shuts off. I have checked all the fuses an they are all good no blown fuses at all. Now when it runs it will idle just fine it shuts off at any speed an I checked there is no spard in the plug wiress an the plug wires are new with a cap an rotor air filter an fuel filter new o2 sensor new catilac converter also thats what the garage installed I put new plugs in before it went to th garage. I just need a few ideas of what could be causing it to just shut off. Thanks for the information so far.

  • rob_earl May 20, 2009

    Is this all you get for $9.99 if it its not worth it. I have already done more checking than any of your suggestions I was a auto mechanic for over 30 years but I retired in 1995 from emphysema with COPD so I am somewhat rusty, I just thought I would try this site out but its not all that good.

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  • 1,050 Answers

You tried the rest, now the best :-) You have a thermal problem. Please check the primary connections at the coil, rusty or loose, fix them up, check all your grounds around the engine compartment and all the connections at the battery. Check under the footwell for wiring that may have been disturbed by a clumsy inspector when he was driving it- anything loose or hanging under the drivers side dash. After doing all of this very carefully and you don't have any success, CHANGE THE MAIN RELAY. It will be in the fuse block box , I believe on the left side of the engine compartment. This relay controls power to the fuel pump and ignition. They do have thermal problems just like this. If this does not work, I have more, I am relentless and will work with you until it's fixed.
Cheers
Dave (30 yrs a mechanic,wish I could retire :-)
mail me at dcwhrck at h0tmai1 if you need more help.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • Dave  C
    Dave C May 20, 2009

    I just re-checked my documentation, this year has two separate relays, one for the pump and one for injection and ignition. The one that is suspect is called the PCM POWER RELAY, replace it. Same location. I would probably change the fuel pump relay as well just for peace of mind, but that's up to you.
    Dave


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  • Master
  • 3,917 Answers

Check the idle air control valve. This sounds like it is not working right. it controls how much air the engine gets when it is idling. the pcm tells it to open more or close. they get old and dont respond fast enuf.

Maybe your ignition module was just about to go bad anyway, and the Multiple Spark Discharge fried it. I had a bad ignition module

First, are your injectors reasonably squirting fuel when you turn the key on?
As other`s suggested, try replacing the ignition control module. They does`nt usaully last which long in my experience. As such the ~$40 or whatrever to replace it is worth it verses being stranded again. Thank You

Posted on May 19, 2009

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