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I can not find wire crimp connectors or ends that are the same as on my 1985 ramcharger

Can not find wire connectors or ends. I need the same type or match .

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Buy a matching pair of connectors and cut off the original ones

Posted on Dec 29, 2013

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Fussable link removal


To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:








  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.


  2. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of three circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.


  3. Identify and procure the proper fuse link with butt connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.


  4. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:


    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.


    2. Strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the two good fuse links, Then insert two wire ends into one end of a butt connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the butt connector and crimp all three firmly together.





Care must be taken when fitting the three fuse links into the butt connector as the internal diameter is a snug fit for three wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutter, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.





    1. After crimping the butt connector to the three fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the butt connector and crimp very firmly.


    2. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a butt connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the butt connector and crimp firmly.


    3. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs then insulate with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.




Heat shrink tubing must be slipped over the wire before crimping and soldering the connection.



  1. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the two wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with two proper size butt connectors. Solder the connectors and wires, then insulate.


  2. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1 / 2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size butt connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair, then insulate.


  3. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.



Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor-don\'t cut or splice\'\'.

When attaching a single No. 16, 17, 18 or 20 gauge fuse link to a heavy gauge wire, always double the stripped wire end of the fuse link before inserting and crimping it into the butt connector for positive wire retention.

May 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I bought some halo driving lights for my '03 GMC Sierra 1500, they came with a wiring harness, switch and everything needed for installation except for installation instructions. Help PLEASE!


Tools recommended for this job: wire stripper, wire crimper, volt meter, 4x quick wire connectors, 4x male crimp connectors, 4x female crimp connectors
  1. First, tape the halo and/or LED wires to the back of the headlights to keep them from tangling.
  2. Keep the pairs in order by their color, e.g. black, black (ground) and Red, Red (positive). Note: positive and ground wires might not always be black and red.
  3. Remove some of the plastic shielding at the end of the wires to expose enough copper wire, next twist the copper together to strengthen it.
  4. Shove the twisted copper into a crimp connector; crimp the location where wire and the connector end overlaps, wrap with electrical tape to secure it.
  5. Two extra wires in black and red will be helpful to make the halo/LED wire longer to easier installation. Remove shielding: show copper: use the connectors: connect the positive and ground from the headlights.
  6. Next step, turn the headlights inside the car to the [on] position.
  7. Take the volt meter and connect the negative to the negative on the battery (please use extreme precaution when doing so).
  8. The headlight harness usually will have [3] wires, generally red, black, green (headlights, ground, turn signal). Use the volt meter to test which wire will have power running through it (since the headlight is in the [on] position) which will be the headlight wire.
  9. Use the quick connector to connect the extra wires (red) to the power wire on the harness and black to the ground. This will split the current coming from the harness. Crimp the connectors and use electrical tape to secure it.
  10. Now connect the projector headlight halo wires and the harness from the car.
  11. No wires should be left over unconnected.
  12. The installation is now complete.

Jan 14, 2011 | GMC Sierra 1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My son cut the wires to the rearvew miror and now has no electric sunroof, windows, or central locking


Sorry to hear this has happened to you, hopefully your son didn't get hurt.

Hopefully you can see and reach both ends of the wires he cut so you can see the wires clearly (if it's hard to see, get a flashlight).

Disconnect the battery.

You need to get barrel connectors, wire strippers and a crimper.

Here's the barrel connector: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-****-Connector-4X313?Pid=search

Here's the crimper/wire stripper combination tool: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/3M-Heavy-Duty-Crimping-Tool-1A076?BaseItem=4X313

If you look inside the connector, you will see a piece of metal. This piece of metal will act as a "bridge" for the electricity. The crimper will squish the metal to the wire (metal to metal contact). The crimper has a color code dot in the front of the tool's mouth to show you where the barrel connector needs to go. The mouth has two places to crimp and the correct spot needs to be used to crimp correctly.

Go one by one in the crimping process so you can make sure you get this correct and not cross wire anything. Each wire has a specific color code so one end of the cut should match another end of the cut (make sure you look closely at the wire's insulation because sometimes there may be two colors on the wire's insulation). Everything should be ok as long as you pay close attention to the color codes and crimp properly.

Once you find each end of the cut wire, remove a quarter of an inch of insulation on both sides using the stripping holes found inside the crimper's handle (the quarter inch of wire should show bare metal). Take a connector and place the exposed wire into the connector (take a quick peak to make sure the wire is inside the metal tube), then take the crimper and squeeze the crimper as hard as you can where the wire and metal barrel meet. You should be able to pull on the connector without the wire coming loose. Now place the other end of the wire into the opposite side of the connector and squeeze again. Give it a tug to make sure it is on.

That's it - repeat as many times as necessary to get the ends "bridged." Once you're done, connect the battery and give it a test. You should be good to go. It's a long explanation but this is really easy to do, once you see the connector and crimper this explanation will make more sense to you.

Jan 03, 2011 | 1993 BMW 3 Series

1 Answer

My 1985 dodge ramcharger wont charge my battery and i already replaced the altanator


You need to replace the external voltage regulator on the fire wall. Probably need a new pig tail wiring harness too.

Sep 21, 2010 | 1985 Dodge Ramcharger

1 Answer

I'm trying to convert my ignition switch to a push button start on a 1985 ramcharger, and can't figure out which wires activate the dash board interior.


here is a step by step guide to assist you. This should definitely work on your vehicle 1 Disconnect your battery. Electricity, even from a 12-volt battery, can cause injuries and sparks can create fires. This is not a project you want to work on while the power is hooked up. 2 Decide on the placement of your new push-button starter switch. Good locations include under the dashboard, in the center console or even in the glove compartment. This is really a matter of personal taste and convenience. If you are just using the push button switch as a temporary fix, you don't have to actually install it. Just wrap the electrical connections in electrician's tape and lay it on top of the dashboard after everything is connected. 3 Using your wrenches or sockets, remove the nut from the positive side stud of your starter solenoid and put it in a safe place where it won't get lost. 4 Using the crimping tool, remove the insulation from about 1/4-inch of the wire and attach an eyelet connector that is of appropriate size to fit over the positive side stud of your solenoid. Crimp the connector onto the wire firmly and then slide the eyelet over the positive side stud of the solenoid and reattach the nut. 5 Run your wire into the pasenger compartment of the car, being careful to route it in such a way that it will not come into contact with hot engine components or sharp edges that might damage the wire. Once you are in the passenger compartment and have enough wire to reach your switch's' installation location, allow an extra 3 to 4 inches and clip the wire. Strip the insulation from the end of the wire and install a crimp connector of the appropriate size to fit on one side of your push-button switch. 6 Remove the screw from the back of the push-button switch and attach the connector to the switch. 7 Strip the insulation from the last 1/4-inch of the remaining wire and connect a crimp connector it. Remove the screw from the other side of the push=button switch and attach the connector to the switch. 8 Route this wire to the positive side of the battery. As with the last wire, be very careful to avoid engine components that may damage the wire. 9 Reconnect the negative side of your battery. 10 Reconnect the positive side of your battery with the new wire placed into position where it will get a good electrical connection 11 Try it out. You will still need your key to unlock the steering wheel and send power to your fuel pump and accessories. Turn the key to the on position and press the starter button to start the engine.
if you need further assistance please feel free to let me know and i will be glad to assist you further. Thanks, Midwest-tek

Sep 01, 2010 | 1985 Dodge Ramcharger

1 Answer

Got two cables and need to crimp them together to maintain connection. What do i need


You can use many things. There are **** connectors that you strip the ends and then crimp them together. You can also use a squeeze connector where you just place the wires together and then close the flap with pliers and it fuses the wires together.

May 20, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 240 volvo wiring connection to the in tank fuel pump & fuel sending has broken. My question is what are my options for a repair by me for this problem ?


You could replace the wire harness with one from a junk yard or new but that will be a lot of time pulling the old one out and putting the new one in or you could just splice the wires together. You need some "**** connectors" and some "heat shrink tube", some wire cutters and a pair of pliers. **** connectors are color coded for size and you'll probably need the blue ones but maybe the red ones which fits snugly on the wire. Strip about 1/4 inch of insulation off the wires and slide a piece of heat shrink tube onto one end.Put both ends of the wire into the **** connector and crimp them tight with the pliers. Just use the corner of the pliers on the end off the connector and make sure the wire is tightly crimped in. Give it a little tug. If it comes out try again. With the wire crimped slide the heat shrink tube over the connector and use a lighter to warm it up and seal it. You can tape it for extra insurance if you want to.If the wires are too short then simply add a piece usung the same method for both ends. The whole repair should cost you less than $10. Hope this helps.

Mar 22, 2010 | 1992 Volvo 240

1 Answer

I am looking for a diagram with labeling for a ''under the hood'' fuse box on a 1995 F250 7.3 Diesel . I've a electical leak that I've tracked to this fuse box and two specific fuses, but don't know what...


Two circuits are protected by circuit breakers located in the fuse panel: the power windows (20 amp) or power windows and Shift-On-The-Fly (30 amp) and the power door locks (30 amp). The breakers are self-resetting.
The fuse link is a short length of special, Hypalon (high temperature) insulated wire, integral with the engine compartment wiring harness and should not be confused with standard wire. It is several wire gauges smaller than the circuit which it protects. Under no circumstances should a fuse link replacement repair be made using a length of standard wire cut from bulk stock or from another wiring harness.
To repair any blown fuse link use the following procedure:
  1. Determine which circuit is damaged, its location and the cause of the open fuse link. If the damaged fuse link is one of three fed by a common No. 10 or 12 gauge feed wire, determine the specific affected circuit.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Cut the damaged fuse link from the wiring harness and discard it. If the fuse link is one of 3 circuits fed by a single feed wire, cut it out of the harness at each splice end and discard it.
  4. Identify and procure the proper fuse link and **** connectors for attaching the fuse link to the harness.
  5. To repair any fuse link in a 3-link group with one feed:
    1. After cutting the open link out of the harness, cut each of the remaining undamaged fuse links close to the feed wire weld.
    2. Strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the detached ends of the 2 good fuse links. Then insert 2 wire ends into one end of a **** connector and carefully push one stripped end of the replacement fuse link into the same end of the **** connector and crimp all three firmly together.
      Care must be taken when fitting the 3 fuse links into the **** connector as the internal diameter is a snug it for 3 wires. Make sure to use a proper crimping tool. Pliers, side cutters, etc. will not apply the proper crimp to retain the wires and withstand a pull test.
    3. After crimping the **** connector to the 3 fuse links, cut the weld portion from the feed wire and strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end. Insert the stripped end into the open end of the **** connector and crimp very firmly.
    4. To attach the remaining end of the replacement fuse link, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the wire end of the circuit from which the blown fuse link was removed, and firmly crimp a **** connector or equivalent to the stripped wire. Then, insert the end of the replacement link into the other end of the **** connector and crimp firmly.
    5. Using rosin core solder with a consistency of 60 percent tin and 40 percent lead, solder the connectors and the wires at the repairs and insulate with electrical tape.
  6. To replace any fuse link on a single circuit in a harness, cut out the damaged portion, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the 2 wire ends and attach the appropriate replacement fuse link to the stripped wire ends with 2 proper size **** connectors. Solder the connectors and wires and insulate the tape.
  7. To repair any fuse link which has an eyelet terminal on one end such as the charging circuit, cut off the open fuse link behind the weld, strip approximately 1/2 in. (13mm) of insulation from the cut end and attach the appropriate new eyelet fuse link to the cut stripped wire with an appropriate size **** connector. Solder the connectors and wires at the repair and insulate with tape.
  8. Connect the negative battery cable to the battery and test the system for proper operation.
Do not mistake a resistor wire for a fuse link. The resistor wire is generally longer and has print stating, "Resistor: don't cut or splice



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Mar 06, 2010 | 1995 Ford F250

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