Question about Cars & Trucks
Drivers side fender
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Front fender removal
Hiya... here's the details of fender removal/installation:
the left-side (same for right-side) fender has 6 bolts attached to the "sidebody" frame.
The bolt location:
3 are on the top fender-easy to find when hood is open,
1 is hidden at the rear of top inner fender-just open the left-front door wide to find it (early equinoxes had foam-like noise absorber material in it, just remove it from underneath fender after the wheelwell liner is removed),
1 bolt is hidden at bottom of front fender area at headlight/bumper area-you need to remove plastic wheelwell liner to gain access,
1 bolt is hidden at bottom of rear fender area where the black plastic rocker panel meets below the fender...
THIS area is probably the most difficult task to do since it requires you to remove a small bolt found on the front of rocker panel behind the front-left wheel then use a flat screwdriver or clip removal tool to pry open the black plastic **clip's 'dime-sized' head prior to pull out the clip's body (it has 8 clips underneath the chassis) then use your hands to grasp the rocker panel underneath, pull it down-toward you...this should do it....USE CARE during rocker panel and clip removal/installation so you don't break the clips!
It also has yellow plastic clips inside the rocker panel (used as a guide during installation into rocker sill holes-use caution not to break it)
**note: early equinoxes had rocker panel clips that you can actually pull it out from the hole, while later equinoxes has 'built-in' clips inside rocker panels that you don't see the clip heads below it due to engineering part design change**
Be sure to exercise care when handing this task!
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
If they are sealed bearings, you will need a press to get them out. If they are bolt in, just remove the brake pads/rotors, then the axle nut, then the bolts holding the wheel bearing in. Install in reverse order.
Posted on Mar 07, 2009
The front fenders are connected to the A pillar above the the top hinge, at the bottom of the rocker panel seam, three bolts pass through the hood hinge support in the middle of the fender, four bolts on the radiator support, three vertical bolts on the top radiator brace, and one bolt at the rear of the wheelhouse to the cab body. Yes, the wheelhouse is spot welded to the fender and must be removed with it. Remove all the bolts listed as well as the bolts retaining the splash shield. The splash shield is a plastic liner connected to both the wheelhouse and the fender. Remove the headlight/cornering lamp assembly. The best way I have found to do this is to loosen the bumper to framebrackets and let the bumper assembly sag to gain clearance. If the upper bumper cover is removed to gain the clearance needed you will more than likely need to get a new cover as the nylon clips have a tendency to break during removal. Once the fender/wheelhouse assembly has been removed use a spot weld cutter to separate the wheelhouse from the old fender. Check the new fender for clearance and fit on the vehicle. Make all the needed adjustments to get the fender to fit correctly. Remove the fender and attach the wheelhouse. This should be done by spot welding. It can also be done using bolts. If using bolts place some 3M double stick weather strip adhesive tape in the seam to prevent direct contact of the parts to prevent rattles and squeaks. Drill the new fender to match the holes made by the spot weld cutter in the wheelhouse. Use stainless bolts and lock nuts so that the assembly can be services if needed. I would also recommend using Wurth Rust Inhibitor on all the seams to prevent rust and once cured it is an excellent adhesive and will reduce noise coming from moving body panels. Good Luck. It is not as bad as it sounds. Take your time and it will be worth the effort.
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Feb 03, 2016 | Ford Cars & Trucks
Jan 22, 2013 | 2003 Ford Escape
Sep 17, 2011 | 2003 Ford Escape
Mar 12, 2011 | 2003 Ford Escape
Dec 01, 2009 | 2001 Ford Escape
Nov 10, 2009 | 2004 Ford Escape
Oct 25, 2009 | 2003 Ford Escape
Sep 30, 2009 | 2005 Ford Escape
311 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!