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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: front brake pads
Just did this tonight... 7/21/08
You need a torx head T-55 Star Socket to remove the caliper bolt(s) and a large 3/4 in preferably with a 1/2 dr and large breaker bar or torque wrench with a 1/2 in dr. to remove the knuckle bolts. I should've taken pictures, but I did not. After studying this exact issue for an hour or so, I finally got everything to click. Steps as I proceeded. Loosen the top caliper nut using the T-55 torx bit, this will take some doing, if possible, use a breaker bar or something comparable, I used a standard 3/8 in. socket wrench and about a foot long hollow metal tube on the end as the breaker and after some muscle work (ouch!!) got it loose. Now there are 2 bolts that hold the caliper in place that need to come out. I used a 3/4 in socket on a 1/2 breaker bar to get these to break. I don't have the exact torque specs to put these back on, but I went about 40lbs on the knuckle bolts and closer to 80lbs on the caliper torx head screw. Once you have the caliper torx head bolt loose and the other 2 nuts off, you can rotate the caliper. Using a C-Clamp, compress the caliper so that it is completely compressed. Now, remove the torx head bolt and the pad assembly will swing out, at this point, you can remove the old pads and clips if you are replacing them as well. Reverse the order for installation using Lock-tite and the caliper grease you get from the parts store. I hope I don't have to mention removing the tires, using jack stands and being completely safe under there. Good Luck. The first side took me about 3 hours considering time and studying, the second side took about half an hour after already knowing what to do.. It gets easier each time you do it.
So far, I have replaced 2 fuel pumps (at home) first one took about 7 hours, second time around, only took about 2 hours. Front and Rear brake jobs. numerous small items, now I'm looking at a blinker switch (problem with left turn signal... rapid click, no light).. Also, the dash panel either needs repaired or replaced as the fuel gage is constantly up and down. If you or someone else has a suggestion here, I would appreciate it.
Thanks and remember... Practice Safe "Do it yourself"..!
Posted on Jul 22, 2008
Hello, one "trick" is to grab a big hammer and hit the face of the rotor (the part that goes on the hub between the lug studs, NOT the brake pads ride on) several times. A lot of the vehicles I have done this with you really have to whack between the lugs pretty hard and a lot of times. Just make sure you don't hit the lug studs.
Posted on Mar 28, 2009
Some calipers have a bolt holding the hand brake mechanism to the body of the caliper. hold the mechanism with a spnner or If yours dont simply lever the mechanism with a bar or long screw driver. Place a pair of lock pliers/ mole grips on the cable(not too tight or you'll fray/damage the cable) then remove the cable from the caliper. When you get the pads out use a screw driver or wind back tool to reset the caliper travel or you will damage the caliper or lose the hand brake altogether.
Posted on May 12, 2009
The pins (slides) are corroded, you need to clean them up. Use Liquid wrench or some such to loosen things up, then have at 'em with fine sand or emery paper. When everything is nice and bright and shiny, brake- lube the slides, reassemble. Take your honey out for a root beer.
Posted on Jun 11, 2009
You will need the following to do a break job
Basic metric socket set 3/8" drive
Caliper spreader or C-clamp
Basic hand tools
Posted on Dec 13, 2010
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