Question about 2001 Volkswagen Passat
2001 vw Passat 1.8T blows cold air but nothot.i replace the temp.sensor but didn't? help.what can I do
Check it the heater control is allowing hot water through the heater core.(turning the tap on )
Posted on Dec 29, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2001 VW Passat
Ok, have your coolind system backflushed. Your heater core could be clogged. This could have been caused in using the wrong antifreeze system or mixing the green with the vw g-12 antifreeze. This could ran you about $110 to 150 dollars at a radiator shop...stay away from the Jidffy lube or oil doctor's . This could be your cheaper alternative to solution to your problem..good luck..
Posted on Jan 03, 2009
HI. this may be a charge issue and the system should be recharged if this is the case. I recommend going the the below checks so that you may eliminate other causes as well before the recharge.
1. Check Drive Belts - The air conditioner utilizes a drive belt that supplies power to rotate the compressor, which is basically a refrigerant pump. If the belt fails the compressor has nothing to drive it, inspect and replace as needed to restore operation. If belt is intact proceed to the next step.
2. Check for Compressor Clutch Engagement - Turn the air conditioner to the "on" position and set controls to the coldest setting. Start the engine and allow to idle. Then open the hood and inspect the clutch at the front of the compressor, is it turning? "Engaged" if so, the system has enough refrigerant to activate. If the system is low on refrigerant it will not work properly. In this case an air conditioner recharge kit is needed to recharge the system. If the system is low on refrigerant it could cycle on and off, making a ticking noise. If the compressor clutch is not turning proceed to next step.
3. Inspect for Refrigerant Leaks - If the system has a large leak and no refrigerant remains it will not activate. First test system for a static pressure charge, with the engine off attach an ac gauge to the low side pressure port and check the state of charge. Depending on outside temperature there should be between 50 psi and 80 psi. (Cool and warm). A refrigerant leak detector is needed to inspect for leak, but if you do not have a leak detector there is an alternative method. The air conditioner system is designed to run with oil suspended in the refrigerant to lubricate the system. Check for oily residue outside the system by inspecting all hoses, compressor, condenser, evaporator or receiver drier and replace any component that has failed.
4. Inspect Fuses - Check under dash panel and under hood power distribution center. Replace failed fuses as needed, recheck system. If the new fuse fails when reinstalled a short circuit is present and requires diagnosing with a wiring schematic, follow circuits to locate short, repair as needed and recheck system.
5. Check Temperature Control Vents - The vents inside your car are controlled by a cable, electrical servo or vacuum servo. If the temperature blend door is not functioning properly it will cause warm air from the heater to exit the vents. To check this start the car and allow the engine idle, next turn the blower motor speed on low, switch the temperature control from warm to cold while your ear is close to the vents. You should hear the door move inside the heater box as it swings from open to close. If not, insect for a vacuum leak or a shorted motor in the servo, repair the leak or replace the servo motor.
Posted on Aug 06, 2009
Has the car been changed coolant since it was bought? If it is time to change, let do a flush through a heater core. There are 2 coolant hoses going thru a fire wall. One for coolant in and one for coolant out. Heater only works if coolant is flowing through the heater core. Therefore, there are one or both following cases contributes to the problem: 1-If the valve control coolant flow gets stuck, then it always closes so there is no heat. 2-If the valve is working, but the heater core gets clogged up, then there is no heat.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
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