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Rattle noise bottom of engine only in drive - 2008 Mercury Mariner

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From engine tech 1 ray365 possible cracked flywheel should sound almost the same in reverse should check at a trans shop to find out

Posted on Feb 24, 2014

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1 Answer

What is causing rattling grinding noise at idle especially in my 89 4.5 DeVille?


The technique I always used to identify where such a noise was coming from was to use a very long screwdriver (2 feet long), while the engine is running. CAREFULLY touch the screwdriver end to each pulley or other object under the hood, and put your ear to the handle. The device making the noise will become very clear.

It could be AC pump/clutch, alternator, water pump, power steering pump, etc.

May 20, 2015 | Cadillac DeVille Cars & Trucks

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Rattling noise coming from engine of my 1994 Ford Escort wagon. Is it the pulley?


could be,but,it could be the exhaust,or the mounts,,,take it to a mechanic to listen to.

May 04, 2015 | Ford Cars & Trucks

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I have a 425 CI 7 litre Cadillac V8 in a 1979 Diamanté. Once the engine is up to temperature a rattle like noise comes into the engine under acceleration. The noise goes when the throttle is


You need to find where the noise is coming from. On the top could be lifters, valves or low octane gas causing a ping. On the bottom could only one thing. Rod knock. The bearings for the pistons and crankshaft are worn.

Jan 01, 2015 | Cadillac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Timing chain tensioner


If this is a 4cyl., check the drive belt tensioner first, there is a TSB for a tensioner rattle that is a common failure . To test , remove the drive belt and start the engine and see if the noise is gone,

Feb 26, 2014 | 2007 Toyota RAV4

1 Answer

Loud rattling noise when cold in reverse or drive


Check engine mount or exhaust mount/damage

Dec 04, 2013 | 2004 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

My 96 chrysler lhs has a knocking/rattleing sound coming from the bottom engine and as you push down on the gas the faster you drive the louder it rattles


if the noise is coming from the bottom end of the motor then you have either bad connecting rod bearings or bad crank bearings.if when you snap the throttle you hear a double knock then its connecting rod bearing if not then its crank bearing.a collapsed piston can sound low in the engine and its usually a dull knock noise.if you have the engine running and the noise is there and you pull off one plug wire at a time(and reconnect it after checking) and the noise goes away or mostly goes away with the wire unhooked then the cylinder that the noise changed is the cylinder that has a bad piston.

May 25, 2011 | Chrysler LHS Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My Audi A4 2009 makes a rattling noise on cold starts which resolves in less than 30 seconds. Dealer says its an air pump. This doesn't seem correct. The noise comes from the front of the care. Does not...


READ THIS (happy ending so far...):
audi a4 2L turbo quattro, manual transmission with 98,000 KM. Perfect conditions, no oil leaks whatsoever.

Left the car off for two weeks in very cold weather (-10C down to -25C). When I restarted, it started immediately but with heavy rattling noise due to camshaft adjuster not getting enough oil pressure. After 3 minutes of warming up (outside temp.: -12C) at very low rpm (below 2,000rpm), I start moving the car. Still hearing heavy rattle noise. As soon as I pass 2,000 rpm, I get a scary red warning, low oil pressure. Turn off the engine immediately. In 1 minute, I re-start the car and the engine lights check ok, so I drive in first gear super slow (1,200rpm) hearing the same rattling noise. After another minute, finally the noise all the sudden disappears and the car starts running just fine.

Called Audi dealer and they told me that in extreme weather conditions, I should warm the engine for 10-15 minutes if necessary before start moving.
Take away: luckily, I didn't screw up the engine since I was using it at extremely low rpm (easy to do with clutch and manual transmission) until the oil reached full pressure. I am pretty sure now that the problem was leaving the car off for such a long time in freezing weather. All the oil flows back to the bottom, and when I restarted it, the cold oil with high viscosity took a long time to reach all the parts of the engine, specially the camshaft adjusters that are actuated by using oil pressure. Next day, the car started at -9C perfectly without making any noise (as usual). Basically, the longer you leave your audi in cold weather, the longer you might hear the rattling noise until the oil reach full pressure inside the engine. My car took 6 minutes to fix it after couple of weeks in cold weather. This makes sense to me; in fact, in the past I only heard the rattling noise after leaving the car off for a couple of days in the winter.
So far, this has had an happy ending....

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Dec 19, 2010 | 2009 Audi A4

1 Answer

Hi, i have a toyota fielder 1.8cc with a some problem which has now come up. when i switch on esp in the morning after staying overnight, it produces some really annoying sound from the engine. when the...


If it is a 'squealing' noise it's probably the alternator/power steering drive belt. Before you turn on the engine in the morning, lightlt smear or spray some oil on the inside of the drive belt to lubricate it. If the squealing stops/disappears, then that's the fault ..

That squealing noise can be caused by an incorrectly tensioned belt, or a worn belt. Replacement is the only option.

The other frightening sounds can best be described as 'rattles' or 'tapping'. When a car stands overnight all the oil drains back into the sump (oil/pan).

There are two things (usually) that can be cause the rattle/tap:
1. Because the oil hasn't been pumped around the system, at start up worn big end bearings can rattle and tap on the crankshaft until the oil 'fills the gaps'. The tapping/rattling goes away as the engine warms and oil is pumped around the lubricating system.

A 'bottom end tapping' is a symptom of worn big ends (they are bearings at the bottom of the piston and fit around the crankshaft).

2. A rattle/tapping from the top of the engine can either be a worn camshaft or 'lazy tappets'. Again, when the engine warms and oil gets to the camshaft and tappets (also called 'hydraulic lifters) the noise will disappear.

If your car has this rattling/tapping noise - identify whether it is coming from just under the rocker box (ie the camshaft/tappets..) or the bottom end of the engine (big end bearings).

If the noise is coming from the top of the engine, try an oil change with a can of thick 'additive' included. A lazy tappet (lifter) isn't too much to worry about. A worn camshaft will affect the performance of the engine, though continue to do its job. An oil change with an additive included may help in quitening things down.

A bottom end tap/rattle (or 'knock') - the sooner that is sorted out the better.

Aug 16, 2010 | Toyota Corolla Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front suspension noise-dull rattle-thumping sound,bumpy roads


look at the front lower engine mount. I had similar noise which has been driving me nuts, thought may be thesway bar links, put it on friends hoist and saw that the front engine mount (mounted to bottom of lower radiator support) was cracked and the rubber bushing inside very worn with pieces missing. odd thing is that reving, or putting into gear never caused it to make a noise, just certain bumps. I ordered part from Autozone,hopefully it gets here before the holiday week end is over.
Good luck

May 15, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Engine noise rattle at about 2500 rpm?


Is the oil level ok? I assume the car is still under warranty? If it is, don't drive it, as damage to the engine may result. Call the dealer and explain the problem and have it towed to them. If you drive it, they may try to get out of a warranty repair, saying you 'abused' the vehicle by driving it in this condition.

Dec 05, 2009 | 2008 Ford Escape

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