Question about 2008 Jeep Patriot
Leak in the evaporator, got new one, need how to remove the dash and how to instal the evaporator and how many gas to the system
Most individuals dont have all those tools on hand to do this..either take it to a shop and let them deal with it or to the dealer service.. then you wont have the headache of keeping all those fasteners in line..
Posted on Dec 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have read it is quite a job. The heater core in my 97 Grand Cherokee (which is in the same location as the evaporator) is leaking. I think you have to remove the entire dash to get to it.
Posted on Apr 15, 2009
I apologize for not being able to provide a diagram, and it's been a while since I've replaced a fuel pump in a Jeep like yours, however the fuel pump for that vehicle is located within the fuel tank. You will typically disconnect power from the battery,relieve the pressure from the fuel rail to the injectors. In most cases the test port on the fuel rail has a schrader valve "valve core" like a tire valve, which utilizing a rag to absorb excess fuel you can depress to relieve pressure. You will then have to detach the fuel filler tube and vent tube at the filler neck. With a floor jack supporting the tank ,there should be a couple of bolts holding either two straps around the tank or a large cover that covers and supports the tank itself ,that will need removal. Once you have removed these and you should be able to access the top of the tank. Bear in mind you don't put the fuel pump/sending unit wiring harness or the fuel and vent tubing under too much strain as you lower the tank. you should have enough room to disconnect this wiring and fuel tubing. the tubing will probably have a quick disconnect setup where it attaches to the pump assembly. Once you have the tank on the ground take a suitable (non sparking drift and hammer) to tap the retaining ring that holds the pump in the tank, around the openig to release it. The pump assembly will be spring loaded and the top may pop up out of the tank. Just be sure to protect yourself from any fuel that might spray up. To reinstall can be a slight chore sometimes, as the assembly is spring loaded. It usually goes in with just a slight amount of effort though. Remember to replace the fuel sock on the pump and o-ring seal around the top of the opening. You can purchase just the electric pump, but I'd recommend replacing the whole fuel pump assembly. It will cost more in parts, but longer part warranty and lesser chance of further damaging the assembly are the benefits. Naturally installation is the reverse of removal. I'd recommend a new fuel filter as well, or shortly thereafter. Chrysler factory replacement units recommend draining all the old fuel from the tank and replacing with new fuel (never done that, and with the price of gas, probably won't start) I have never seen an adverse effect from not doing so. I hope this posting has helped.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
SOURCE: I don't think this is
Try grabbing one of those portable air tanks and a hose and blow gun. Set the control to floor only and start the car. blow with the compressed air into the defroster vents.It may get messy with leaves and the such but it aint no $800. It's worth a try keep charging the tank so you have a goo strong pressure coming from the nozzel. I didn't think it was necessary to tell you to put it on AC control during the project. Good Luck, Dana
Posted on Aug 25, 2009
YES A CAP FROM THE DEALER WILL MOST LIKELY SOLVE THIS ISSUE...SOME OF THE AFTERMARKET CAPS ARE NOT MADE TO THE PROPER SPECS TO MAINTAIN PROPER PRESSURE/VACUUM ON THE SYSTEM WHEN THE EVAP TEST BY THE COMPUTER OCCURS
Posted on Aug 31, 2009
Testimonial: "Thank you- I'll try that."
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