There's a union box (or block like part)that has two pairs of brake lines coming from it, one set is on top of this block like part the other set of lines is going to the front of it, there's two nut (3/4) with rubber piece on top of each nut nut facing the rear of the part. I Fluid is coming from the right side nut. Here's my two part question; can I repair this part? Secondly; What is this part called? Thanks for any assistance that you my be able to provide!
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Re: Rear brake connection leaking fluid
Sounds like the brake compensator abd yes you can change it yourself but use special spanner to undo the brake pipes ,check brake pipes for corrosion as well and when fitting new unit make sure you start off the nuts by hand all of them so they are in the bolt unit down ,if pipes will not pick up the threads on the new unit then pull the nut back a bit and with a small flat file file the bell shaped end a bit as they do compress then the nut will not pick up threads .GET stuck reply to this post
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Make sure the master cylinder is full and that the vacuum line going to it is is secure wit no air leaks. If as you state the brakes not being applied only at the drivers front and passengers rear wheels, but the other two wheels are working fine you will either have a leaking/blocked master cylinder, leaking/blocked brake lines feeding each of those wheels, or a bad proportioning valve. To trouble shoot raise the bad wheel and crack open the bleeder valve, have an assistant apply the brakes if a nice clean steady stream of fluid comes out, MC is OK, and valve is OK, any bubbles of poor flow indicates leak in system. Very little flow bad MC or blocked lines/valve, etc.Do the same for the rear wheel and you should be able to determine the fault.
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
You will have frount breaks but not the best thing to do by blocking the rear off. You real should put a new line on and bleed the rear breaks. If for some unknow reason you got in an accident bad thing could come from blocking the break line.
If you have no evidence of leaking outside the drum, most likely your brake piston is leaking or the drive shaft seal is leaking. Pull off the drum and look for the piston which spreads the two brake pads normally situated at the top. Inspect for leaks. If the fluid is thin, it is most likely brake fluid. If it is heavier like oil and really stinks, it is gear oil from a leaking seal.
First of all determine where the leak originates. At the outset make a mental note that the brake fluid will need bleeding at some point since if the fluid can leak out it is likely that air can bleed in. Air in the brake fluid is to be avoided as it impairs good brake function.
First of all get the whole area clean. Use a small wire brush to remove all loose corrosion. Now check that there is plenty of brake fluid on the reservoir container above the brake under the hood, top it up as needed.
1) Bleed screw : Have a friend apply pressure on the brake pedal and undo (yes undo) the bleed screw just a quarter turn. Release about a quarter of a cup of fluid and then re-tighten the nipple before (this is important) the pressure is taken off the pedal. Clean everything with a cloth and tighten the bleed screw no ore than an extra quarter turn if this was the source of the leak. Check by standing on the brake pedal.
2) Caliper union : The flexible hose screws directly into the caliper and if it is leaking at the caliper just give it an extra tighten and then carry out (1) above.
3) Pipe Union : the other end of the flexible hose goes through a bracket and connects with the metal brake line. If tightening here, hold the metal junction of the flexible pipe steady and then tighten the brake line union nut. Do not be tempted to just tighten the nut on its own as the junction is liable to rotate within the bracket.
4) Brake pipe : Most brake pipes are made of steel (??!!) which as we know eventually corrodes. Most corrosion of brake pipes occurs either at unions or at brackets where water and salt can get to work. The only recourse is to change the brake pipe for a new length.
5) Caliper body : the seal between the piston and the caliper cylinder can sometimes be compromised by corrosion. You will need to remove the caliper/slave cylinder from the car to carry out a thorough inspection.
From your discription, if it is square in shape and has 3 brake lines attached to it, it is the rear brake junction block. Double check and make sure it isn't a brake line that is attached to it. If the leak is above the rear axle on back of the wheel, that's the rear wheel brake cylinder.
They don't make diagrams for brake lines. The lines are sold in bulk. You need to measure and duplicate the bends in the orignal lines and cut/flare the lines yourself. You will need a tubing cutter, flare tool and tubing bender.
There is no return line. The line should be filled with fluid that applies the brakes when pressurized. Some systems have a vent hose on the rear axle that is only connected on one end, but the hydraulic line will be solid and unopened. There is a junction on some systems that routes the fluid to the right and left wheels. There are different kinds of brake problems - if you are not familiar with braking systems I recommend you refer it to a professional.
common problem, youll need a flare kit. and some brak line,unions, find a good spot of line in frt, and cut , remove other end at hose, then flair frt, make line the size you need install and bleed system, then check for leaks good luck,
What you need to do is jack the car up and get underneath it to pinpoint where the leak is coming from. Please be safe jacking up your car. Put blocks underneath the rear tires if they come off the ground or put blocks between your rear axle and the ground so if the car does come crashing down it will only fall until the axle hits the blocks.
It should be pretty self explanetory what needs to be done once you find the leak.
If you have drum brakes and its leaking on the inside of the drums and running down the bottom of the inside of the tire it means you have a bad wheel cylinder. Wheel cylinders have brake fluid running through them to operate the brake shoes. They do go bad with age.
If its a rotted line you can purchase a lenght of line and some fittings for each end and splice the new line into the old line but this isn't recommended.
Well I hope this helps you get your brakes fixed,
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