Question about Honda Passport
What does it take to replace the rear end of my 1994 honda passport 4cyl.5speed trans???
Takes parts , labor and skills. and takes and FSM if smart.
if the whole rear axle , member and all parts swapped.
body on jack stands,
you unbolt it, (look at it, see those connective parts, bingo)
then bolt it back in
and bleed brakes (yes put in new brakes too)
and drain and fill the new axle, with GL4 lube.(look up spec)
all the itty bitty steps are in the FSM, why not look.
i log in , and see replace page i paste it , below, you can log in too.
The hoist must remain under the rear axle housing.
Exploded view of rear axle assembly
Posted on Dec 28, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
well, differential repair can be costly but, the dealership will cost the most to be honest. about around $1200 at the least.
Posted on Mar 15, 2009
Hello, well you can look at it in a few different ways. Like you stated you can get a rear end from a salvage yard and not know what you are getting, you can spend some big bucks to get a new rear end, or you can get it rebuilt. I feel getting it rebuilt will be the better option. If you get it rebuilt you will have new parts in the rear end and know what you have verses the cost of a new rear end. This of course depends on how much damage there is in the rearend. Economically I feel that having it rebuilt is the best option. I always get nervouse when putting in any used part because you don't know what you are getting. If you do get it rebuilt make sure they put in new bearings which any reputible shop should anyways.
Posted on Mar 31, 2009
Bearings are pressed into the hubs...much easier, faster and economical (if you don't have a press) to replace the complete bearing/hub assembly, no pressing is needed, since bearings are already pressed into the new hubs. Cost..aprox, 60 buxs each.
Here are the steps for the rear replacement...
Loosen the lug nuts on a rear wheel. 2) Chock the wheels and jack the rear of the car on the side with the lug nuts that you just loosened. 3) Remove the wheel by removing the lug nuts. 4) Pry open the dust cap covering the center of the axle/spindle. A small screwdriver tapped into the space between the hub and dust cap will work well for this. 5) With the dust cap now removed, use a thin center punch to straighten the little dent in the rim of the spindle nut so that you will be able to turn it freely in the next step. 6) Use a 32mm socket and a large breaker-bar to loosen the spindle nut. Unscrew the nut all the way and place it in a clean, safe area. 7) You should now be able to slide the hub/bearing assembly from the shaft. 8) Installation is the reverse of removal. Use plenty of high-temperature wheel bearing grease on all surfaces before you mount the replacement hub assembly.
IMPORTANT: Torque the spindle nut to 134 ft/lbs....(per manual specs)
When reinstalling the dust caps, tap them gently into place to avoid denting them...Install wheels, jack her down and pat yourself on the back...job complete.
Good luck..hope this will fixya up...please take time to leave me a fixya rateing...
Posted on May 23, 2009
Unplug the connector on the back of the alternator, remove the bolts holding alternator to the mounting bracket.
replace the alternator, start in the bolts, and set the belt on. now use a small pry bar, to hold pressure against the alternator to tighten the belt. while holding belt tight, tighten down the mounting bolts. rehook connector on rear of alternator. if you feel safer, unhook the battery + terminal before you start the replacement.
Posted on Oct 20, 2009
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