Question about 2000 Mazda 626
A belt has been squealing for months. About 2 weeks ago, my transmission started shifting from 2nd to 3rd at 5000 rpm. I was driving last night and my power steering went out then the entire car died. I tried jumping the battery and it jumped off immediately but when the other vehicle disconnected the cables, my car would die. Could these two problems be related? What do I need to do?
Sounds like you have several problems there. The shifting of gears sounds like it may be a torque converter problem, though it could be a number of things - from a dirty filter to a bad speed sensor, this will more than likely have to be diagnosed and fixed by a transmission shop. You can try adding fluid, though anything that you do may aggravate what ever problem is there.
The squealing may be the power-steering and not the belt. You should check the fluid while it is running and have someone turn the wheel back and forth to see if the squealing increases as greater angles are reached. If it does, and if the fluid is low, try adding some while turning the wheels back and forth and then get under the car and see if you see any leaks at the end of the boot or under at the seal on the wheel side. If no leaks are found try replacing the fluid - you will have to buy or rent some type of siphon or siphon pump to complete this - you need to do the fluid exchange while the vehicle is running, and make sure that the fluid doesn't drop below usable levels.
The car dying (electrically) sounds like an alternator problem, especially if it was dying when the power was disconnected. If you have a multi-meter, connect the negative to the body of the car or a ground and the positive to the 'hot' lead coming from the alternator see if you have 12+ volts going to the battery. It may be a good idea to just take the alternator out and take it to your local parts store to be bench tested - this way you know the internal are good or bad and aren't chasing around phantoms. Then test the battery side and see if it is holding a charge. If the battery and the alternator are both good, you may need to get some assistance with further diagnostic equipment.
That is a fairly complicated vehicle to work on, so you may want to buy a manual for it just to make sure you are doing everything to OEM standards. It is also interesting to note that most manuals have troubleshooting charts that can really help you figure out the problem more efficiently by giving you a methodology to work from; especially when dealing with electronic problems.
Hoped that helped. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 28, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check the Fuel injection system (injectors) and the intake manifold. It might also be wise to check the alternator as well as the starter coil and also the electronic distributor
Posted on Oct 18, 2008
hello there, there is a way to check if the alternator works, just start the engine and run it at idle for a minute or so just to get the engine warmed up. while the engine is running, try to remove the positive terminal cable from the battery (note: no lights, radio, or any accessories operating). the alternator should be sufficiently providing power to the engine. if it dies down the charging might be weak. another way is purchase a digital multimeter and setting it to dc voltage testing. put the tester prongs on the correct terminal( positive to red positive and negative to black negative) test the voltage prior to starting. usually it shall read 12. 3 or a tad higher. remove the tester prongs from the battery terminal and start the engine. then place it back on. the reading shall read 14V plus without any load. sometimes it might read 15V w/c is usually over for certain cars. then turn on all accessories: headlights, aircondition/heater and etc. if the reading on the tester indicates 12.8V and above 13V your charging system is ok.(all this test is on engine idle)
For the battery, my experience is that 2 years of battery duty is quite good already. unfortunately, during these span of duty the battery might give a 12V reading but its strength is not enough to sustain the load. the voltage of the battery is the physical attribute so to speak and ampere is the power or strength of the battery.
for your accessories that died, I think something tripped when you jump started it. but the accessories are easily traceble. I think what's important is keeping the engine in tip top condition and won't let you down during hard times.
hope some of this helps you.
Posted on May 04, 2009
could be a sensor problem in your catalytic convertor or air mass meter.
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
Testimonial: "I scanned the code reader. All sensors scanned as OK. The voltage on the mass air sensor was a lttle high. Will monitor. Thanks for the help."
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 06, 2014 | 2000 Mazda 626
Jun 10, 2013 | 2000 Mazda 626
Jan 27, 2012 | 2000 Mazda 626
Feb 20, 2011 | 1999 Mazda 626
Apr 19, 2010 | 1999 Mazda 626
Sep 10, 2009 | 1998 Mazda 626
Jun 08, 2009 | 1999 Mazda 626
Aug 13, 2008 | 2002 Mazda 626
Jul 15, 2008 | 1998 Mazda 626
126 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!