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In accessory mode you won't notice the high current draw because the alternator is out of the circuit and the engine is not running. With the engine running, you will see the excessive draw on the volt/amp gauge. If bad enough it will pull the idle RPM down a bit.
Your blower motor is bad or the wiring has deteriated to the point of causing a high current draw. A good auto tech (or knowledgeable friend with a DVOM and amp gauge) can diagnose the problem in 10 minutes.
Check to see if you can see or hear the rear wiper motor running.
If the motor is running you can tighten the bolt, look under the wiper arm pivot point .
If the motor in not running, look under the dash on the drivers side for a blown fuse or bad wiper motor relay.
Hope this helps.
Precor Error 53, Can't Read Target, Can't Find Home Switch
1. Blown F2 fuse.
2. Home switch wiring is damaged or has intermittent connection.
3. Gear (elevation/incline) motor wiring is damaged or has intermittent connection.
4. Home switch is bad.
5. Gear (elevation/incline) motor is bad.
6. Gear (elevation/incline) motor target is damaged.
7. Lower PCA is bad.
Disconnect power from the unit. Remove the F2 fuse from the lower PCA. Using an ohm meter, measure the fuse for 1 ohm or less. If the reading is considerably high, replace the fuse. If the fuse is blown, inspect further for the cause to avoid the fuse blowing again. Inspect for damaged gear motor wiring or a bad gear (elevation/incline) motor. Replace if necessary.
Thoroughly inspect the home switch wiring for damage or intermittent connections. Repair or replace damaged wiring or poor connections as necessary.
Thoroughly inspect the gear (elevation/incline) motor wiring for damage or intermittent connections. Repair or replace damaged wiring or poor connections as necessary.
Ensure the moving arm is away from the home switch and disconnect power from the unit. Disconnect both wires from the home switch. Using an ohm meter, check for approximately 0 ohms. Continue to monitor the home switch resistance and activate the home switch by hand. The reading should change from approximately 0 ohms to open (infinite). If either reading is considerably incorrect, replace the home switch.
With unit disconnected from power, disconnect both wires from the gear (elevation/incline) motor. Using an ohm meter, check for approximately 9 ohms through the gear (elevation/incline) motor wiring. If the reading is considerably high or low, replace the gear motor.
Inspect the gear (elevation/incline) motor target for rips, tears, or bad scratches. If any of these are found, replace the target.
During the start up sequence, check the voltage at the gear (elevation/incline) motor. Voltage should be approximately 12VDC. The voltage should only be present between the time the sequence was started and the error 53 occurred. If the voltage is considerably low or absent and the F2 fuse proved good, replace the lower PCA.
The blower motor runs on several settings, but if the motor will run only on the HIGH setting, then the Motor resistor is bad.
If it will not run at all, first check the blower fuse (Location in your owners manual. If that is good, check to see if power is reaching the motor by setting the inside switch on HIGH (With key ON). Then, using a multimeter or test light at the plug on the motor, check for 12 volts. If you have power there, then the motor is most likely bad or jammed, or the plug connection is corroded. The motor should be mounted in the engine compartment on the drivers side firewall. It will look like a soup can mounted on a flat disk.
If there is no power, then the blower motor relay is the likely culprit. They are only about $7and easy to replace. Your owners manual should point out the location.
I had a similar problem. It'd do a whir/thump routine. There's a motor that opens a door - I think it opens to allow cabin air to recirculate. It would get to the point where it should stop but seemed to "thump" over the stop point. I opened the door and unplugged the motor. Guess, I really didn't fix it. Do like my sister and turn up the radio. Good luck.
There is a piece in the motor that tells them to go home - so try this take the entire wiper blade off the car - turn on the motor - and then shut it off - now put the entire units back on where they should stop please let me know if this fixes your problem.
there are usually two hot wires going to the wiper motor .. also a ground strap that may be bad ... one of the hot wires is always on if the key is on ... that for homing the wiper blades when you turn them off .. the other power input is from the wiper control circuit .. its only on if the wiper switch is turned on .. if you have power on the homing input then that wont do anything unless the wipers are not in home position .. if you have power to the "run" wire of the motor and the ground is good then the motor should run unless its defective .. you can put a jumper cable from the ground of the wiper motor to the engine block or battery neg, to check if the ground wire is causing the trouble .. that happens frequently in some models but not sure about your E250 ...
if the fan fails to operate...check the ground leads for the fan...electricity needs to go home after making a device run...so it needs a path back to the battery...be it a negative lead back the the battery or to the chassis (which leads back to the battery). you could take off any grounds off in the engine compartment...clean all contact points off with steel wool or similar abrasives.and re-attach. most electrical problems are bad grounds...or bad return paths.