Question about 1989 Toyota Pickup SR5

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IACV screw came out. What can I do to fix this?

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  • Toyota Master
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No photo , no joy.
which screw, a mounting screw, some have mounts and calibr. screws.
the mount ? remove the other screw, go to any hardware store or auto store and match it, hint its metric. as them for help.
diameter and pitch and lenght must match.
or any toy dealer. show screw, he matches it.

Posted on Dec 29, 2013

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Idle air control valve screw came out 1989 toyota pickup


If you have the screw and the little spring around it just screw it back in. If it is lost then go to the wreckers or carby repair shop and get another screw and spring. screw it all the way in until it touches then unscrew it 2 full turns . That will get it started and then adjust in or out until the engine idles smoothly.

Dec 27, 2013 | 1989 Toyota Pickup SR5

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96 grand cherokee acts like it is not getting gas


iacv, or your tps, last check fuel filter.. first two easy fix, two screws each...

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How to fix error code 19 on honda civic dx 1993 5 speed


Error code 19 on a Honda civic refers to AT lock up system malfunction causes ---Lock up control system. Have the code item repaired first and the second fault may be fixed also.

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My 2002 Grand Prix starts rough intermittently and the service engine light stays on. When driving around 40mph and accelerating at 2000RPM, the RPM drops 500-600 rpm. I installed a new coil pack and...


Hi, please have the car scanned at your local parts chain and send us the trouble codes. If I had to guess, I would say MAP sensor, but it will be much easier to help you with the trouble codes in hand.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5932051-check_engine_light_check. These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

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Car has in a fuel injected 1500 cc engine ,hard to start and uneven idle usually jump from 1500 to 3000 rpms when it should be idling


You probably have a bad Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). If it does not control the idle correctly , you can find yourself driving 50 MPH with out touching the gas pedal. The IACV is located on the throttle control valve and is typically held on by two or three small screws. The price for an IACV can run from $25 to $500. I purchased a throttle body for $40 , removed the IACV, and saved $400.

Dec 19, 2010 | Mitsubishi Lancer Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Idle fluxuates up and down consistantly


Check the Idle Control System

Idle speed is controlled by the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV). The IACV changes the amount of air being bypassed to the intake manifold, in response to electric current controlled by the ECM. When the IACV is activated, the valve opens to maintain proper idle speed.

Symptom and Subsystems to Check:

1. Difficult to start engine, when cold--check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.

2. Fast idle out of spec, when cold:
a. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
b. Check IACV.
c. Check idle adjusting screw (see Section C).

3. Rough idle:
a. Check hoses and connections.
b. Check IACV.

4. RPM too high, when warm:
a. Check IACV.
b. Check Fast Idle Thermo Valve.
c. Check hoses and connections, check Power Steering Pressure Switch Signal, and check idle adjusting screw.

5. RPM too low, when warm:
a. Idle speed is below specified rpm, with no load--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.
b. Idle speed doesn't increase after initial start up--check IACV.
c. Idle speed drops in gear (automatic transmission)--check automatic transaxle gear position switch signal.
d. Idle speed drops when AC is on--check air conditioning signal and IACV.
e. Idle speed drops when steering wheel is turned--check power steering pressure switch signal and IACV.
f. Idle speed fluctuates with electrical load--check hoses and connections, IACV, and Alternator FR Signal.

6. Frequent stalling, while warming up--check IACV and idle adjusting screw.

7. Frequent stalling, after warming up--check idle adjusting screw and IACV.

Additional Steps:

. Check Alternator FR Signal. Have alternator inspected, if idle speed fluctuates with electrical load. The FR signal communicates to the ECM how "hard" the alternator is working to meet the electrical demands of the car, including the battery and any loads which aren't monitored by the ELD. This square-wave signal varies in pulse width, according to the load on the alternator. The ECM places, approximately, 5 reference volts on the wire. The voltage regulator will drop this signal to approximately 1.2 volts, in proportion to alternator load. The ECM compares the electrical load (ELD) signal with the FR (Charging Rate) signal from the alternator and uses that information to set the idle speed and turn the alternator on and off. This helps fuel economy.

. Clean main ECM ground on thermostat housing.

. Reset ECM, by removing the 7.5 amp Back Up Fuse, in the under-hood fuse box, for 10 seconds.

. Replace PCV Valve, cleaning hose with brake cleaner spray.

. Substitute a known-good ECM. If symptom goes away, replace original ECM.

Check the ICM (Erratic RPM and PGM-FI System)

When the engine is cold, the air conditioner compressor is on, the transmission is in gear (automatic transmission only) or the alternator is charging, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. Here's an overview of how the PGM-FI System works.

Background:

Various inputs to the ECM are TDC/CKP/CYP Sensor, MAP Sensor, ECT Sensor, IAT Sensor, TP Sensor, HO2S, VSS, BARO Sensor, EGR Valve Lift Sensor, Starter Signal, Alternator FR Signal, Air Conditioning Signal, Automatic Transmission Shift Position Signal, Battery Voltage (Ignition 1) Brake Switch Signal, PSP Switch Signal, ELD, and VTEC Pressure Switch.

Inputs are received and processed by the ECM's Fuel Injector Timing and Duration, Electronic Idle Control, Other Control Functions, Ignition Timing Control, and ECM Back-up Functions. These are the primary functional areas within the ECM.

Outputs from the ECM control Fuel Injectors, PGM-FI Main Relay (Fuel Pump), MIL (Check Engine Light), Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve, A/C Compressor Clutch Relay, Ignition Control Module (ICM), EVAP Purge Control Solenoid Valve, HO2S Heater, EGR Control Solenoid Valve, Alternator, Lock-up Solenoid Valve A/B (A/T), VTEC Solenoid Valve, and Interlock Control Unit.

Idle RPM:

Once you understand how the PGM-FI system is configured, it's easy to see how the ECM, Idle Air Control Valve, and the Ignition Control Module affect idle rpm. If the ECM's Electronic Idle Control function is not working properly, then it cannot properly control the IAC Valve. Likewise, if the ECM's Ignition Timing Control function is not operating properly, it cannot properly control the ICM (igniter). Obviously, idle rpm will also be affected if there's a problem with the IAC Valve or the ICM. As stated above, the ECM controls current to the Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve to maintain correct idle speed. This cannot happen if the IAC Valve is failing. The same situation exists if the ICM is failing. The ECM will tell the ICM to open and close the primary voltage circuit going to the coil and it won't respond properly. The result will be erratic spark plug firing and erratic rpm.

Conclusion:

If you are experiencing erratic idle rpm, try and isolate whether the problem is caused by the ICM (ignitor), IAC Valve, or the ECM. My experience has been that a failing ICM is usually responsible for the problem. Keep in mind that tachometers are connected directly to the ICM. Therefore, a fluctuating tachometer needle is often a dead giveaway. Heat and poor preventive maintenance (causing high secondary voltage to be discharge on internal distributor components) frequently causes the ICM (and coil) to fail. Besides performance, this is another reason why it's important to regularly replace spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotors, and distributor caps. Electricity will always follow the path of least resistance, even if it isn't the intended one. Our job is to ensure the intended path is the path of least resistance.

Ignitor (ICM) and Coil Replacement:

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
2. Remove hex head machine screws, securing distributor cap to housing, using an 8 mm nut driver.
3. Move distributor cap and wires off to the side.
4. Remove machine screw securing rotor to shaft, using a #2 Phillips head screwdriver. It may be necessary to "hit" the starter once or twice, in order to rotate rotor for access to mounting screw.
5. Remove rotor and leak cover.
6. Unfasten ignitor wires, remove coil mounting screws, and set coil aside. Note: Removing coil first improves access to igniter.
7. Unfasten screws securing igniter to housing.
8. Remove ignitor from distributor and unfasten screws mounting ignitor to heat sink.
9. Coat back of new ignitor (or old igniter, if reusing) and male connectors with silicone grease. Silicone grease increases heat transfer to heat sink. Failure to apply silicone grease will cause the ignitor to quickly fail.
10. Mount ignitor to heat sink and reinstall ignitor, igniter terminal wires, coil, coil wires, leak cover, rotor, and distributor cap. Ensure female ignitor terminals fit snugly--crimp with pliers, if necessary.

AutoZone can test ICMs and coils for free. If you plan to keep the car, I would replace the ICM due the age of your Civic.

Sep 15, 2010 | 1991 Honda Civic

2 Answers

The car starts and immediately stalls unless I


Hey Jruthesq

The 850 is equipped with an Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) which supplies the engine with air when idleing (a necessity since the main throttle body valve is completely closed when no throttle is applied, thus the engine would lack air without the IACV when idleing). The IACV is suspended in a rubber mount on the front of the throttle body itself, and is easily removed and inspected/cleaned. If it's dead a good cleaning usually gets it going again. Also make sure that the air from the IACV is unhindered on its way from the IACV to the throttle body (it's actually common for the holes in the throttle body to be gunked up so bad by hardened carbon deposits that one sometimes needs a nail or even a drill to open it up again).

Just thought I'd mention this since you said that the gas needs to be feathered for the engine to start. When you press down on the gas the main valve in the throttle body opens up, closing the IACV and supplying the engine with enough air.

Oh and if your fuel pump relay is a green one marked 103 you should replace it with the new and improved red one. The relay is located under the fuse box cover under the hood. Remove the 4 torx srews holding the cover in place and you'll see the relays under there.

Good luck mate!

Jul 01, 2009 | 1997 Volvo 850

3 Answers

2000 Lexus RX 300: Can start, but its engine goes down if ...


I can't speak to the leak, but the inability to idle is due to a bad low idle control valve. My 2000 RX300 was doing the exact same thing. It's about a $450 part.

Mar 20, 2009 | 2000 Lexus RX 300

5 Answers

300zx engine idle


The reason it's stalling out is because of the adjustments you made to the CAS and TPS. You need to reset the CAS where it was, since when you rotate this sensor, you change the ignition timing. As for the TPS, that also needs to be reset to how it was. The way to adjust the idle on this engine is with a screw on the idle air control valve (IACV). At the back corner of the engine, on top on the driver's side, the IACV is bolted on. If you crouch down next to the driver's fender and look straight in at the IACV (with a flashlight) you will see a screw recessed in there, with the head pointing toward you. That's the idle adjustment screw. With the engine running, AFTER you have reset the CAS and TPS, turn this screw until you are able to set a warm-engine idle of roughly 750 RPM. Messing with TPS voltage and ignition timing is a sure-fire way to stall or blow up your engine.

Oct 18, 2008 | 1990 Nissan 300ZX

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