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check your oil pressure and also perform a compression test to make sure your engine has the right compression. There's a ton of information on google on how to perform these tests and where you can locally get the supplies you need.
If no compression then you need to do a leak down test to see where the compression is going which may be due to poor ring seal if you did not machine the cylinders in the engine block so they are perfectly round as part of the rebuild or it may be elsewhere - such as intake or exhaust valve leakage.
In any event here is information on leak down testing under the compression testing section........
Nissan Skyline R32 engine factory workshop and repair manual download .... enginethe expansion of the high-temperature plus high-pressure gases ... Diesel motors take inside air just, plus soon before peak compression, spray a little ...
Mar 12, 2012 - Performance, Specs, Price & More. ... Sstp 1203 02+building powernissan engines+vq35de engine ... Higher compression pistons are needed with big cams, but putting those two things together with variable valve timing ...
Do a dry compression test then wet, if compression is same wet as dry, then engine is worn or valves bent or worn, if one or more cilinders compression is higher for wet test, then you have broken ring(s).
A simple compression check will tell you what cylinder is the culprit. Remove the fuel pump relay or fuse to disable the injectors and fuel system, then remove one spark plug at a time to perform the test on the vehicle. Install the compression tester to each cylinder individually and record the readings for each after cranking the engine for at least 10 seconds till the gauge on the compression tester reaches it's "peak". Use caution while performing the compression test. Good luck !!
If there is crack in the block there will be symptoms. The easiest way to tell this is to do a compression test on all the cylinders. You can pick up a compression tester at any automotive store. A cracked cylinder or head will have much lower compression. The key will be a dramatic difference of compression between cylinders rather than absolute compression.
If your not leaking externally your problem could be internal.Its quite possible your oil is going out your exhaust.I recommend you do a wet dry test on your cylinders.This test tells you whether or not you have an internal problem.What your going to do is perform a compression test on the cylinders and record the compression in each cylinder.This is the dry test.Now you want to squirt a little oil in the cylinder and do another compression test.If there is any variation in the readings from dry to wet then I would look for an internal problem such as valve guide seal,rings or valves.As far as the starter and ignition problem it could be a bad starter and ignition switch.You should take your starter to your local auto parts store and have the starter tested this is usually done for free.Also be sure you check your neutral safety switch for proper operation.
A compression test will tell you if your engine has good compression. An engine is essentially a self-powered air pump, so it needs good compression to run efficiently, cleanly and to start easily.
As a rule, most engines should have 140 to 160 lbs. Of cranking compression with no more than 10% difference between any of the cylinders.
Low compression in one cylinder usually indicates a bad exhaust valve. Low compression in two adjacent cylinders typically means you have a bad head gasket. Low compression in all cylinders would tell you the rings and cylinders are worn and the engine needs to be overhauled.
HOW TO CHECK COMPRESSION Compression can be checked two ways: manually with a compression gauge, or electronically with an engine analyzer the measures cranking compression. With electronic testing, a computer analyzer estimates compression in each of the engine's cylinders by measuring slight variations in engine cranking speed.
The results correlate well with actual gauge readings, and can be completed in a matter of minutes without having to remove any spark plugs. What's more, the analyzer prints out the results of the compression test making it easy to see and compare the actual numbers.
To check compression manually with a gauge, all the spark plugs must be removed. The ignition coil must then disabled or the high tension lead grounded. If the engine has a distributorless ignition, the ignition coils must be disabled to prevent them from firing. The throttle must also be held open.
The engine is then cranked for a few seconds using a remote starter switch or a helper while a compression gauge is held in a spark plug hole.
The maximum compression reading is noted, then the process is repeated for each of the remaining cylinders.
The individual cylinder readings are then compared to see if the results are within specifications (always refer to a manual for the exact compression figures for your engine because they do vary from the ballpark figures quoted earlier).
IS IT THE RINGS OR THE VALVES? If compression is low in one or more cylinders, you can isolate the problem to the valves or rings by squirting a little 30 weight motor oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole and repeating the compression test. The oil temporarily seals the rings.
If the compression readings are higher the second time around, it means the rings and/or cylinder is worn. No change in the compression readings would tell you the cylinder has a bad valve.
If the gas is being pushed out on the compression stroke maybe but it sounds off to me. If you have the vehicle back do a cold compression test and see if you have good compression on all cylinders. If you have good compression it is unlikely that the Head gasket is a fault. If you have low compression then it is possible that is the problem or your rings have been damaged somehow. If they haven;t started the work yet ask what the compression is on each cylinder. Even they should see that would not be the problem if there is good compression.
How to Test Engine CompressionAn engine depends on an equal compression reading in each cylinder to run smoothly. If poor compression exits in one or more cylinders it can cause a rough idle condition and low power. A compression test can be performed to check wear or internal damage. To start a engine compression test gauge is needed. There are two types of gauge styles, one threads into the spark plug hole which is more accurate. The other style of gauge is constructed with a rubber plug that is meant to be pressed against the spark plug hole, this style of gauge is difficult to use. To perform a engine cylinder compression test follow the steps below.
Remove ignition coil connector or ignition system fuse to disable power to the ignition system
Test ignition system to ensure that the power to the system has been disabled
Remove #1 cylinder spark plug and insert compression gauge, most gauges have a hose attachment that is installed into the spark plug hole with the gauge connecting to the gauge hose.
Engine Cylinder Compression Gauge
After the compression gauge has been inserted, use the starter to crank the engine over for about five seconds. Use about the same five seconds to test the remaining cylinders.
Record the compression reading as each cylinder is tested
Remove the compression gauge and reinsert the spark plug
Follow this procedure until all cylinders have been tested
Compare cylinders compression reading, all readings should be within about 5% of each other
If low compression exists a cylinder malfunction exits and further inspection is required. Possible causes for a low compression condition are: burned intake or exhaust valve, broken piston or piston ring, broken valve spring or a blown head gasket.