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Temperature gauge go hot

Temp gauge going to hot than car shuts off..just replaced heater core an radiator

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  • Chrysler Master
  • 44,292 Answers

Check the coolant level at the radiator cap as you may have got an air lock that came out and left the radiator with insufficient coolant

Posted on Dec 28, 2013

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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motor1258
  • 6674 Answers

SOURCE: No heat. Temp gauge barely moves, but hoses to/from core are hot

Did you run engine from cold, with heater (not defrost) on , rad cap off & wait for rad fan to come on 2 or 3 times before you put rad cap back on? Rev engine slightly and hold it there for 30sec. to 1 min. every once in a while while doing this to aid in increasing flow & remove air locks. If both hoses in & out are hot to touch, then you should be getting heat, and I would start looking at blend/air door etc on heater to make sure it's going to it's proper position.

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: no heat

No Blower in Floor Mode
A customer arrives with a 1983 to 1995 Full Size Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury
automobile with automatic temperature control. If the complaint is no blower operation when
the floor mode is selected, the vehicle may have a problem with the thermal blower lockout
switch also referred to as the CELO (cold engine lock out switch).
The thermal blower lock out switch is located in the heater core intake hose. The two
wire switch has a thermal element with a small set of contacts, the contacts are open when the
coolant is below 120°F and closed when the coolant is above 120°F. The thermal blower lock
out switch also contains a vacuum switch, which applies vacuum to the outside/recirculate
valve when the system is in the floor position. When the engine coolant is below 120 degrees
and the selector is set to floor position, the thermal blower lock out prevents blower from
turning on and closes off the outside air during engine warm-up. When the coolant
temperature is above 120 degrees, and the selector is set to the floor position, the thermal
blower lock out switch allows the blower to operate and opens the outside air door.
In order to diagnose this problem, test the thermal blower lockout switch with the
engine at normal operating temperature (above 120°F). Unplug the wire harness connector
from the thermal blower lockout switch. Using a 15-amp fused wire, jumper the harness
terminals to test the switch. If the blower comes on, the thermal blower lock out switch is
faulty. If the blower doesn’t come on, look for an open between the control head selector and
thermal blower lock out switch.
In some cases the blower may continually run even when the engine temperature is
below 120 degrees. Unplug the thermal blower lock out switch and if the blower motor turns
off, the thermal blower lock out switch is faulty. If the motor continues to run, look for a
short to power between the control head selector and thermal blower lock out switch

Posted on Feb 10, 2009

gordanddar
  • 477 Answers

SOURCE: temp guage showing hot, not getting any heat for 1992 Mercury Cap

If the hoses to and from the heater core are hot , and you say the heater core is hot , then the only answer is that the air duct that flows into or out of the heater core plenum ( housing ) is not opening.
Heater control on dash borad inoperative.
Not sure about 92 capri , some cars have a cable linkage , some work on vacume motors.
Try to find a haynes manual for your car , they will walk you through almost every step of anything you may ever want to do to your car.

You seem to know what you are doing , but I gotta ask ........the heater core you felt was up behind the dash inside the passenger compartment of the car right ?

Posted on May 10, 2009

  • 398 Answers

SOURCE: Temperature gauge fluctuates

First of all you have a bad heater core that needs to be replaced. Second you may have a bad temperature sensor. Make sure the radiator if full of water

Posted on Jan 19, 2010

t8085579058
  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: heatere core replacement

Be careful you dont over heat soon. I posted this in a different web sight I hope it helps you.

Re: Overheating and blowing cold air
I have been a mechanic for 20 years. Your problem is the heater core is plugged. The cold water from the radiator blows directly at the thermostat keeping it closed even when you are overheating! BAD DESIGN!! If you look at the water flow charts in AllData you will understand. If you rev the motor to 3,000 rpm's the turbulent HOT water at the water pump impeller (near the thermostat) will reach the thermostat to open it and the car's temp will fall very fast to the correct temperature. If you remove the thermostat it will not overheat but will run way to cold. If you bypass (loop) the heater core it will not over heat.

The hot water that leaves the heater core returns to the engine at the thermostat. It is the only hot water introduced to the thermostat to keep it open and allow the water to flow from and to the radiator. I normally just back wash the heater core and get large chunks of rust flake out then its fixed. Back wash then froward wash repeatedly many times. Also flush out the motor so you don't re plug the heater core. I hope you have now blown the head gaskets or cracked a head yet. Make sure to run the proper coolant in the car so you don't promote more rust flakes. And bleed the air out as mentioned in detail by other posters.

Nobody knows this little secret. Not even Subaru mechanics at the dealer, no TSB (Technical Service Bulletins a special note after the fact to mechanics). After days and days of trouble shooting a 1993 Subaru Impreza (2.0?) I looked at the water flow chart and then it was clear what was happening. This phantom overheating problem stumps the best mechanics and sends many Subarus to the crusher.

Posted on Jan 26, 2010

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Why is the heater not blowing out heat?


This could be one of a few options.#1 could be as little as 1 quart to one half gallon low on coolant in radiator; #2 could be thermostat may be stuck in Open position all the time ( check temp gauge to see if engine is at Normal operating temperature ) #3 could also be stopped up Heater Core....Check this by simply touching heater hose going into heater core and heater hose exiting heater core, at any rate if the core isn't stopped up, Both hoses Should be warm or hot at regular operating temperature of engine warmed up.

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Make sure the cooling system is not plugged up, poor coolant flow can make your engine run hot, and a plugged heater core will not allow heat in the cabin in the winter.

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What causes hyundai Elantra 2002 tempature gauge fluctuates between normal and hot


The thermostat "seals" the cool coolant giving up (rejecting) heat in the radiator & heater core from the hot coolant absorbing heat in the running engine "block".

When the coolant in the engine reaches a specific temperature (180 ~ 195 degrees) as determined by the value selected by manufacturer or when replaced, it opens and allows the hot coolant in the engine block to be pumped out to the radiatot & heater core for cooling and the cool coolant in the radiator / heater core is pumped into the engine block - replacing the hot coolant. The thermostat senses cool coolant in the engine block and seals shut until the temperature of the coolant in the engine block rises to 180 ~ 195 degrees again. This process continues over and over for as long as needed.

You should check to make sure that the coolant level in the reservoir / radiator is sufficient by checking when cold. Do NOT remove a radiator cap when it is hot! With the cap off, start the engine and add additional coolant as the engine warms up to normal operating temperature. If coolant levels are ok, the trouble could be related to the thermostat or possibly a faulty temperature sending switch. This means that the temperature of the coolant is fine - but the switch or sensor that converts the temperature to a voltage for the gauge on yur dashboard is the problem.

If the temperature is fluctuating up and down, you should have it fixed. Good luck!

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My trooper keeps over heating, I have changed the fan clutch,the radiator, the radiator cap. I have even taken the thermostat out. and it still runs hot. no crack in the block, could the heater core be...


The heater core being clogged would affect whether the interior gets hot air when set to hot temperature.

The heater core is like a very small radiator that wouldn't affect the temperature of the engine very much.

May I ask how hot it gets? Engines can get to 220 deg. F or 230 deg. F and still be considered to be running in a normal temperature range.

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1 Answer

Temperature gauge fluctuates


First of all you have a bad heater core that needs to be replaced. Second you may have a bad temperature sensor. Make sure the radiator if full of water

Jan 19, 2010 | 1995 Ford Taurus

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Only blows cold air from vents even when temperature gauge set to red for hot air.


Temperature gauge should not be in the red unless you are talking about the temp control. Check hoses to heater core for a temp difference once the vehicle has reached operating temp. If a big differenced is noticed heater core may be plugged and may have to be flushed or replaced. Do the same with radiator hoses could also be a thermostat

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you need to replace the heater core and pressure text the radiator cap, replace if it leaks down go to a parts store to do this also you need to replace freeze plugs if you don't they will blow and ruin the engine,a slo check that the water pump is not bad, loosen the pump belt and see if you can wiggle the water pump with fan connected, if you have any play replace the water pump. and add new anti freeze.

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No heat. Temp gauge barely moves, but hoses to/from core are hot


If the temp. gauge on the instrument panel is OK, test and eventually replace the temperature sender, and check the wiring to temperature sender.

Replacing the whole heater core is not a simple operation, test sender and wiring first.

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