Question about 1994 Chevrolet Camaro

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Air conditioning Last weekened i cleaned my engine with engine degreaser and water (exterior) the day after, when I am in idle and press the gas my air bag light comes on. If I go in reverse nothing happens. When I go in drive and press the gas, airbag light is on, ABS INOP light stays on, check gages light flickers (with headlight) battery gauge jumps, low oil light comes on, and service engine light flickers on and off. I have replaced the ground stud on the fender and cleaned the paint off there. Third brake light bulbs are all good. I do not see any melted wires in the compartment, and I'm out of ideas. Could anyone please help???

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  • Chevrolet Master
  • 794 Answers

Is your car equipped with an OBD-I or OBD-II system? If it is OBD-II, invest in an OBD-II scan reader- since you'll be able to pull valuable source information from it to help troubleshoot the problem. If your on a limited budget and cannot obtain the scan reader, some auto supply stores, like NAPA, Pep Boys, and Auto Zone will either rent one out to you or they may hook up their reader for free.

The big question for now is, what type and brand name degreaser did you use? If it contains petroleum distillates, it will break down plastic, rubber, and other materials prone to deteriorate- when exposed to petroleum based cleaners.

Posted on Dec 27, 2013

Testimonial: "Its an OBD II. The local autozone does not have an OBD II Reader. I'll have to goo look at the brand. I do know that the warning said to not spray wires so I didn't. I'm thinking that water go into some connection somwhere and unfortuantely it has been raining and cold which its usually hot and dry here. I'm hoping for a nice day this weekend to dry some of it out."

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: 99 chevy malibu alternator?

That is a very good place to start. You and remove the alternator, and most auto parts stores will check it for you.

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: No rear brake light / turn signals on 2001 Chevy Cavalier

The problem is the turn signal/headlight/hazard switch assembly on the steering column which the brake light wiring runs through. The part is easy to change and cost about $50 at most parts stores

Posted on Sep 05, 2008

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: Fluctuating oil pressure gauge.

Two quarts is about half the capacity. The pump was probably starved of lubrication and is failing.

If that's not expensive enough, you may now have a problem with a damaged engine. You may want to just put that money into a new vehicle.

I don't think the car would have enough power in its present condition to get high enough to reach a cliff, and driving it into a lake would not be environmentally sound. Besides, the fine would not be worth it.

The cheapest and easiest maintainance that anyone can do on a car to avoid expensive repairs is still checking the oil ever 1000 miles (filling if necessary!) and changing it every 3000.

Posted on Mar 18, 2009

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A 2001 CHEVY BLAZER MY SERVICE ENGINE SOON

The warning lights are telling you that something is malfunctioning. As long as the warning lights are "ON" you can take it to most major auto parts stores and they will scan it for free, and if the guy that scans it has any automotive knowledge, he'll be able to tell you what is wrong and how/ how much to fix it.
Once you get the codes that the computer is giving, it'll be easier to diagnose your problem, and there are lots of guys on the website who'll be more than happy to tell you how to fix it.

Posted on Aug 27, 2009

Mustgo
  • 2359 Answers

SOURCE: 91 S10 rough idle, stalling ALDL problems

Make sure there is no vacuum leaks.


Vacuum leak at intake manifold and vacuum hose.

Bad Idle Air Control Motor (IAC)

Low compression (170 psi + is OK)

Start cleaning and repair these trouble spots and see is there any improvement.

====

For more advance DIY'er then you may try this.

Use a can of Berryman carburetor clean to locate the vacuum leak.


SEE SAMPLE PICTURE HERE


This is a 20-30 minutes job.

Vacuum leaks can occur in following locations.


Intake manifold AND/OR vacuum lines.


Intake manifold is not accessible unless the engine head if off.

You can still check the potential leak by spraying some Berryman near the intake manifold.

Listen for rpm increase after you introduce the Berryman (FUEL) at idle.


Do the same starting from the brake booster unit (the round unit) on the drive side fire all.

Carefully listen for increase of RPM right after to spray the Berryman to the potential vacuum spot.

Get a friend to HEAR the RPM increase or monitor for RPM on the tech.

DO NOT AIM the Berryman into any heat source.


PLEASE RATE my answer if it is useful to you.

Posted on Dec 17, 2009

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You have obviously got water ingress where you shouldn't when cleaning the engine. It's always advisable to have the engine running and at operating temperature whenever using water to clean under the hood. Anyway, the water is there so what do you do? Carefully clean every electrical connection under the hood with a dry cotton cloth. WD40 can be used and will do the job more easily but naturally will leave an oily residue, depends on how clean you want your motor. Persistence and tenacity are the key features plus plenty of patience to overcome the water problem - and here's hoping you don't do it again!

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the idle air control (IAC) probably needs removed and cleaned. this is what controls idleing on most vehicles now days. but do not put entire unit in any liquid. use an old tooth brush or similar to clean the carbon from it, also be sure where it mounts is all clear.(use aerosol carburetor cleaner) The throttle body of your engine controls the secondary air intake for the engine. The throttle body becomes dirty with air contaminants that the air filter cannot keep out. This condition is called "coking" and can cause stalling as well as lower the engine idle. clean out throttle body and throttle plate very good. especially on the sides of the throttle plate where it will stick. good-day !

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If the air mass sensor gets coated with foam from the PVC, then it won't increase the gas supply when you open the throttle, because the foam insulated the heat element in the sensor.
Just take it off and clean it will any sort of degreasing spray, then put it back on. At this age, you should probably consider splicing a condenser into the PVC hose, to take out oil and water vapors.

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1997 Volvo 850- It doesn't get gas when it idles- Current Problem My original problem is the same as the one described below. My husband use the same fix described below and it worked. "Hi: We own a 1997...


Hi!

Sounds to me like the engine in fact is getting gas when idleing, but not getting enough air. Therefore my 2 cents are on you IACV (Idle Air Controller Valve). It's a small steel cylinder suspended in a rubber piece on the front of your throttle body, and its job is to supply the engine with air when idleing. This is a necessity since the throttle body valve is closed when the gas pedal isn't pressed. Take out the IACV and clean it thoroughly, also make sure that the air going from it is not hindered by any gunk or deposits on its way to the intake manifold.
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Choppy idle


Check your IAC or Idle Air Control Valve. They often gum up and would likely cause a problem like this. You may be able to clean it yourself. If you risk getting cleaner fluid into the IAC motor, then you may ruin it.
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1999 Town Car began running very rough - suddenly.


When cleaning your engine, water/degreaser went down the spark plug ports. Try using a air compressor blow gun to remove the moisture from around the spark plugs and boots. The water was causing the engine to misfire on 3 cylinders at first and as the ports started to evaporate the moisture, the less misfiring was occuring. Dry thouroughly and hopefully coils do not have damage to them. Also check to make sure the boot is making good contact with the spark plug.

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Check engine light/rough acceleration


Dear atomicboy488,

A lot of Rain=Possible Water in the Gas=Erratic Running!
This sounds like it may be as simple as cleaning the water or gunk out of the gas tank which is what I always do 1st because it's easy and inexpensive.
If your fuel is contaminated with gunk, grime, WATER and/or bottom junk like rust this will cause stalling AND ROUGH ACCELERATION!
Try spraying a can of starter fluid in the air intake and see if it runs! If it does, it's most likely bad fuel or clogged injectors so....
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jackiaria
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Cold start


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Here is the most common cause of surges and stalls and low idle, it is the idle speed control air-bypass valve and throttle valve, they get full of gunk over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake. One last note have u done a fuel pump pressure bleed down test? it should not loose more than 5 PSI in 24 hours.

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