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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: firing order for 97 chevy blazer
Firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2. Distributor cap should be numbered. Number one cylinder is front on driver's side (3 and 5 follow on same side). Number 2 is front on passenger's side (followed by 4 and 6).
Posted on Apr 29, 2009
Lube the tie rod ends, center link, upper and lower ball joints, and steering link. If noise is still the same, you probably have worn upper or lower control arrn bushings or a steering box problem.
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks 2coolrick, keep livin up the name "
Drop the pan, odds are the shift solenoid is out, its located at the front of the trans on the driver side. I'm sure your check engine light is on that will comment about the timing/shift solenoid being bad. I had the same problem with mine. The solenoid had plastic coming out of the inside. To remove it you'll find a small C clip holding it in, just take a small screw driver and pull the clip out. The part cost me like $36 from my local dealership. And its a longer solenoid. I believe its the 3-2 downshift solenoid. I do have the part number if you need it.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
Testimonial: "Thank you so much. I actually thought this was the problem, but i didn't know. Thanks again!! send me the part number"
If the brakes appear to be working correctly in all other respects, then it's likely to be a noise caused by a wear ridge on the disc circumference. As the pads don't contact this part, it not only fails to wear down like the rest of the disc surface, but also rusts and as rust takes up more volume than steel the ridge actually grows larger.
To cure it, get the pads and discs checked to ensure that they're within specification (discs are a consumable item and typically need changing with every second or third set of pads). If they're well within acceptable limits then you can either grind off the wear ridge (on the inner and outer side of the disc) and also consider grinding a small chamfer onto the outer edge of the pads where they might contact the wear ridge. Ensure that you repeat the work on the opposite side of the car as well, and note that if just one pad or one disc is below limits then all front pads or both discs must be replaced. If the discs are replaced, the pads must be replaced unless they're near perfect and almost totally unworn. If the pad surfaces are uneven then they must either be refaced to be totally flat or discarded and replaced.
A common trick to grind down the disc wear ridge is to jack up the car at the corner you're working on, remove the wheel and to then firmly support the car with an axle stand (vital). Chock the rear wheels and apply the handbrake. Get in the car and start the engine, engage first gear. Because of the way that the differential works, the front wheel which is on the ground will lose all traction and remain immobile and the front hub on the opposite side will turn instead, but as it's in the air it won't move the car. You can then carefully use an old sharpened and heat hardened flat blade screwdriver, chisel or best of all a lathe cutting tool to slowly cut away the ridges. Once done, repeat on the other side. For safety, never attempt this unless there is someone else watching out for you. Also ensure that you have no loose hair, ,jewellery or clothing which can get caught on the wheel hub or the wheel studs.
Posted on May 21, 2010
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