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Need to know how to wire a shore plug that is a 50amp125/250 with a 12/3 wire there is no Indys on this female mount shore power inlet

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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To start with 12-3 wire is too small for a 50 amp load..but if you are doing 220 it goes like this you have a black ..white and green wire..black is hot..white is hot and green is ground ..if its 110..the black is hot.. white is ground and green is earth ground to casing metal..the bare copper wire is earth ground.. make sure no wires cross.. this will short it all out..

Posted on Dec 27, 2013

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How to wire a 50amp shore power inlet with a 12/3 wire


12/3 is NOT suitable for 50A
6gauge 4 wire set up
black and red to line
white to neutral
green ground
6gauge 3 wire set up
black and red line (if using a 6gauge cord use the white and mark with red tape) green to ground

Dec 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to know how to hook up a tachometer with a shift light on it there are four wires


The Black wire will connect to body ground, and it should be a good solid ground and if this wire is not grounded well then you might receive a primary voltage shock if you touch anything that is metal or grounded inside of the vehicle when the engine is running.

The Red wire should be connected to power when the key is in the "Run" position only, and a good place to find that source is one of the "IGN" connections at the fuse panel using a covered female spade connector. Use a test light and be certain that the connection only has power when the key is in the "Run" position, and has no power when the key is in the "Off" or "Accy" position.

The White or Yellow wire should connect to the "LPS" connection at the fuse panel next to the LPS fuse using a covered female spade connector.

The Green wire will connect to the "-" negative side of the ignition coil or the primary side of the ignition coil, and for later model GM HEI equipped vehicles this will be the "Tach" connection next to the main "Bat" connection on the distributor cap if the ignition coil is mounted inside of the distributor cap, or to the "Tach" or "Test" lead that runs from the negative side of the ignition coil if the ignition coil is mounted separate from the distributor. To locate the lead run down the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and the lead should break off from that wire and it should have a tag on the wire that will say either "Tach" or "Test" (sometimes it is just an empty black wire connector) and that is if the lead does not come straight off from the wire connector at the ignition coil. If there is no lead you can get a wire tap connector to tap into the wire from the negative side of the ignition coil and then use a covered male spade connector to connect the Green wire from the tachometer to the wire tap connector.

Here is a diagram to help assist you although it might be hard to make it out, and let me know if you require any further assistance.



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Aug 06, 2010 | 1986 Chevrolet C1500

1 Answer

I changed the oil, spark plugs and valve cover


test to make shore you ignition coil is working" unplug any plug wire and then try starting it...you should her the ticking from the ark of electrisity from the coil to the engine block its self... first: be shore youve connected the spark plug wires in to the right slots on the ignition coil second: make shore the wiring harness just upstream from the air filter is connected"without it my montero want start" third:make shore all harmesses are connected and tight.... forth: now turn the car on..but dont start it.. and see if the check engine light goes off.... fifth:try giving it a lil bet of gas when trying to start..... thats all i can think of, srry for spelling...hope it helps

May 11, 2010 | 1998 Mitsubishi Montero Sport

1 Answer

Vw camper T2 bay ignition problem


Please re-post your question as it sounds like you are talking about the later vanagon and not the bay-window type 2 since the bay-window units did not have fancy idle control and stabilizer units.

Jan 18, 2010 | 1986 Volkswagen Wagon Camper

1 Answer

MY 2001 TAHOE FAILED THE SAFETY INSPECTION BECAUSE THE "IDLER" ARM HAS A "FAIR AMOUNT OF PLAY. IS THEIR ANYTHING I CAN DO SHORT OF REPLACING THE ENTIRE IDLER ARM?


yes the entire idler arm needs replacement to clear this problem.
there are many things to be checked
just click this link directly
http://www.2carpros.com/maintenance/car_safety_inspection.htm
you will need to remove the alternator to replace the idler arm pulley
Disconnect the negative, then the positive battery cables.
Remove the battery from the vehicle.
Remove the battery tray using the following procedure:
Remove the four battery tray bolts.
Remove the battery tray from the vehicle.
Remove the serpentine drive belt.
Remove the cooling fan assembly using the following procedure:
Remove the wishbone-shaped engine mount strut by removing the bolts and nuts at the engine mount bracket and on the upper radiator support.
Remove the strut from the vehicle.
Disconnect the cooling fan harness from the engine wiring harness.
Reposition the wiring harness at the upper radiator support.
Remove the cooling fan shroud bolts.
Remove the right side radiator bracket.
Remove the cooling fan shroud with the electric cooling fan motors and fans as an assembly.
Remove the thermostat housing and the radiator hose using the following procedure.
Partially drain the engine coolant.
Use hose clamp pliers to remove the radiator hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the radiator hose.
Use hose clamp pliers to remove the heater hose clamp to the water inlet housing and disconnect the heater hose from the water inlet housing.
Use hose clamp pliers to remove the surge tank inlet hose clamp from the water inlet housing and disconnect the surge tank hose from the water inlet housing.
Remove the water inlet housing bolts and remove the water inlet housing.
Remove the outboard generator bolt and loosen the inboard bolt.
Remove the idler pulley bolt and idler pulley.
Unplug the electrical connector from the alternator.
Pull back the protective boot from the alternator "BAT" terminal, remove the nut and disconnect the heavy "BAT" wire from the alternator terminal stud.
Remove the alternator from the vehicle.
To Install:
Position the alternator to the engine.
Plug in the electrical connectors and install the heavy "BAT" wire to the alternator terminal stud. Tighten the nut to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). Press the protective boot back in place over the stud terminal and nut assembly.
Install the outboard alternator bolt into the alternator housing.
Install the inboard alternator bolt and then finger-tighten the outboard bolt.
Install the idler pulley and idler pulley bolt.
Tighten the bolts in the following torque sequence:
Tighten the idler pulley bolt to 37 ft lbs. (50 Nm).
Tighten the alternator bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and the radiator hose, observing the following:
Inspect and clean the mating surfaces on the thermostat cover and its mounting surface on the engine.
Use RTV Sealer GM #1052366 or equivalent on the mounting bolts since the threaded openings are open to the cooling system and the torque requirement is low.
Install the water inlet and thermostat housing and tighten the bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm).
Connect the surge tank inlet hose to the water inlet housing.
Connect the heater hose to the water inlet housing.
Connect the radiator hose to the water inlet housing.
Install the cooling fan assembly and tighten the radiator bracket bolts to 80 inch lbs. (9 Nm). Plug in the wiring harness at the upper radiator support. Plug in the cooling fan wiring harness to the engine wiring harness.
Install the engine mount strut bracket to the upper radiator support first, insert the through bolt. Attach the engine side of the strut to the engine mount strut bracket on the engine and install the through bolt. Thread the nuts on the through bolts and tighten to 35 ft. lbs. (48 Nm).
Install the battery tray and tighten the bolts to 44 inch lbs. (5 Nm).
Install the battery.
Install the serpentine drive belt.
Connect the positive, then the negative battery cables.

This will help. Thanks please keep updated. please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya.

Nov 23, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Tahoe

1 Answer

Blown head gaskit need to remove head and replace with new ong


2.2L (VIN 4) Engine
  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions section.
  2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
  3. Drain the cooling system.
  4. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Air cleaner outlet duct
    • Engine mount
    • Intake manifold
    • Exhaust manifold
    • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor electrical connector
    • Power steering pump
    • Radiator inlet pipe
    • Spark plug wires
    • Rocker arm cover

    NOTE Whenever valve train components are removed, keep them in order for installation purposes.

    • Rocker arms and pushrods
    • Lifters
    • Alternator rear brace and the alternator
    • Power steering pump
    • Radiator inlet pipe
    • Ignition coil assembly
    • Accessory bracket
    • Spark plug wires
    • Cylinder head bolts

    WARNING Two sizes of bolts are used; note the location of each.

    • Cylinder head
  5. Inspect the cylinder head and block surface for cracks, nicks, heavy scratches and flatness.
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Cylinder head torquing sequence—2.2L (VIN 4) engine

  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Cylinder head with a new gasket and new cylinder head bolts. Torque the long bolts, in sequence to 46 ft. lbs. (63 Nm) and the short bolts to 43 ft. lbs. (58 Nm) plus an additional 90 degree turn on all the bolts.
    • Lifters
    • Pushrods and rocker arms. Torque nuts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    • Rocker arm cover. Torque the bolts to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
    • Spark plug wires
    • Accessory bracket
    • Ignition coil assembly
    • Radiator inlet pipe
    • Power steering pump. Torque the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. (30 Nm).
    • ECT sensor electrical connector
    • Exhaust manifold. Torque the nuts to 118 inch lbs. (13 Nm).
    • Alternator. Torque the bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
    • Intake manifold. Torque the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (24 Nm).
    • Engine mount. Torque the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (75 Nm).
    • Air cleaner outlet duct
    • Accessory drive belt
    • Negative battery cable
  2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
  3. Start the vehicle and inspect for leaks.

Oct 08, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Is the motor from a 2004 Cobra an easy swap into a 1996 Cobra?


no you will need to change the exhaust, engine mounts, transmission mounts, tail shaft, trans cross member, wiring loom and computer if not more stuff i am shore it can be done but the expense will be huge

Oct 01, 2009 | 1996 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

2005 F250 Trailer lights


Not sure if you know that much about electrical wiring so I will go through it like you don't.
Take the trailer plug out of the female socket at the rear of the car, turn your running lights on, go to the female plug and using a test light check to see which one lights up the test light, that wire will be the running lights wire.
turn the running lights off and turn either your left or right indicator on and check at the plug to see which wire lights the tester, do this for the opposite indicator as well.
Turn the indicator off and get someone to hold their foot on the brake while you test the plug for power.
check the male plug at the rear wire terminals by putting it in the female plug and perform the same test as the female plug, if you have power to all the wires at the rear of the male plug go to the lights at the rear of the trailer and perform the same tests as before.
to get the both rear brake lights to come on you have to run a red wire from the brake light on the live wire side to the light on the opposite side to give it power when you apply the brakes for it to light up.
Turn the ignition on and turn your left or right indicator on again and check the wire for that side, if that is ok do the same for the other side then the running lights, you will have to run another wire off the running light wire to the opposite side of the trailer to give that side power to the lights
ther should be an earth wire from the plug that has to earth the trailer, all the lights also have to be earthed as they will not work if they aren't.
Try that and see how you go, if you do it right they should work for you

May 14, 2009 | 2002 Ford F250 Super Duty SuperCab

1 Answer

Replacing the horn.


OK, here is a step by step guide to help you replace the horn at hand.


Step1 Locate the stock horn. It will be in the front under-hood area of the truck and may be under the battery or inside the area between the fender and the inner fender. Behind the grille is also a possible location for the stock horn.
Disconnect the power wire, which will be attached to a spade on the horn. If possible, remove the horn. The horn will be held in place with a small bolt. Step2 Purchase a replacement horn, either from the dealer or a universal aftermarket model from an automotive parts dealer. Step3 Install the horn in the original mount if a stock horn is the replacement choice. Reconnect the power wire. Step4 Mount a universal horn in the stock bracket if possible, or use a large self-tapping screw and mount in a convenient location using the bracket that is supplied with it. Step5 Connect the wire connector to the horn. In most cases the stock wire connector will simply plug on to the spade connection of the new horn. If it does not fit, cut off the original connector and replace it with a solderless female spade connector and plug that onto the horn terminal. If the horn has two terminals, the other is to be grounded to the car body using a self-tapping screw.


Please rate and god bless:)

Mar 23, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Digital clock


Here is a wiring diagram of the radio by wire color:

Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Green/Yellow
Radio Switched 12V+ Wire: Yellow/Black
Radio Ground Wire: Black/Green
Radio Illumination Wire: Light Blue/Red
Radio Dimmer Wire: n/a
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Blue
Radio Amp Trigger Wire: Blue (Same as Antenna Trigger)
Front Speakers Size and Location: 5′ x 7′ Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Light Green
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Light Blue/White
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): White/Light Green
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Dark Green/Orange
Rear Speakers SIze and Location: 5′ x 7′ Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Gray/Light Blue
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Tan/Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Orange/Red
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Brown/Pink
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Aug 14, 2008 | 1988 Ford Mustang

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