Question about 2008 Ford Fusion

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Feels like care is surging. 2 lights are now on on the dashboard

While driving today, my car was "surging," some mild while others were very noticeable. A 'wrench' light came on but when I turned my car back on it was gone. A couple hours later, when driving approximately 40-45 mph, the surging was intermittent & then the 'wrench' light & another light came on after the biggest surge of the day (driving approximately 10-15 mph as I was accelerating once the traffic light turned green.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: surging while driving

This is a notorious problem with the Windstars. There are oodles of ground straps in them. Make sure they are all clean and tight. ESPECIALLY THE STARTER GROUND STRAP. If it's loose, the car may just die when you turn up into a driveway or parking lot or just go over a bump. If you notice the "Check Engine" light comes on momentarily, at the time of the surge or the engine kills completely, it's DEFINITELY the starter ground strap! My engine used to kill at odd times -- even when on the freeway going at 75!-- Then we'd go over another bump and SURGE_O_RAMA, the engine's running again or I'd restart it and it would be fine for a while. What's happening is the loose ground strap loses it's connection when you go over a bump in the road. The next bump jogs it back into the connected mode, albeit tenuous at best. All of the computer techs couldn't find the problem. It took a 70-year old seat-of-the-pants mechanic to make the SIMPLE fix. It took so long to find the common-sense mechanic, however, that the down-shot of all of the surging tanked my tranny, which I had to have rebuilt! AND then, after I drove away from the 5-star AAA BBB "transmissing" shop, I found that THEY HAD NOT TIGHTENED ALL OF THE GROUND STRAPS! I took it back. They had no knowledge of ALL 9(?) ground straps and had to take it to THEIR mechanic who tightened them ALL down! It's been 5 years since then and I haven't had another problem with it. RULE OF THUMB: EVERY TIME YOU HAVE THE VAN SERVICED have them tighten-down ALL of the ground straps! If your mechanic doesn't know what you are talking about, go find a new mechanic. Generally, the AAA "Top Shops" are your best bet. They fix things right the FIRST time. I still haven't found a manual that has all of the ground straps listed, by the way.

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

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frcs68
  • 1605 Answers

SOURCE: press accelerator, but car won't move

take the car to the trasmission guy, have them check it out.
you may have burn the troque converter.

Posted on Dec 02, 2008

chrischronic
  • 235 Answers

SOURCE: 96 Ford taurus surging when stopped at lights

you replaced the wrong part. a common problem with this code is the D.P.F.E. SENSOR. ford has revised this sensor due to so much trouble with the old ones. i would get this part from ford so you know you are getting the revised part

Posted on May 07, 2009

gypsycat00
  • 224 Answers

SOURCE: 2006 Taurus surges

Take your car into an Autozone. They do free engine diagnosis when the check engine light is on. They'll hook it up to a reader and it'll give them a code to cross reference. That'll at least let you know why your check engine light came on. I'm sure it has something to do with the surging as well. You'll at least have a better idea of where to begin looking.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 77169 Answers

SOURCE: It surges at idle and stumblesunder mild

I want u to clean the air intake valve and idle speed control valve, follow the procedure below.

Here are the common cause of surges, cold stalls, stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

let me know in a few days if this helps.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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