Question about 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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All the elecrical cuts out while acclerating. Lights, heater motor, emmissions light comes on. Once I get to speed everything goes back to normal. Ehgine has just started misfiring, seems to cut th

Checked alternator and voltage regulator. Replaced them both. Or the tach goes crazy during all this. The big problem is I leazve for work in the dark. Kinda want other people to see me, but makes it hard with no lights.

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Here is something that might be related to your issue, carefully inspect fuse box under dash, driver side. See if it is wet/moist with oily liquid on fuse side and wire side behind. If it is, its brake fluid from the brake master pressure switch that has failed causing brake fluid to be pushed thru the wiring all the way to the fuse box , shorting out the electrical system. The repair would require replacing the brake master pressure switch with an updated pigtail (supplied with new switch), and replacing the complete fuse box assembly, and I would recommend cutting and splicing new wiring from the brake pressure switch to the fuse box.

Posted on Dec 27, 2013


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 96 Ford Windstar runs rough, check engine light on

Sounds like you have some EGR ports clogged up, remove the intake and look at the egr ports all but
#1 cyl port will probably be at least partially clogged, hope this helps

Posted on Nov 18, 2008

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: 2005 Ford Focus - Emmission light on steady

I may want to get an OBD-2 code reader it does run scans on the emission sensors( fumes capture, evap, ehxaust recirculation....). there are too many things going on at once to really pinpoint the exact problem. I tried.

Posted on Mar 30, 2009

  • 4669 Answers

SOURCE: 1979 Ford Thunderbird alternator not charging

Are the connections really dirty at the voltage regulator? These tend to get corrosion on them and cause weird charging system issues. Also make sure the ground is good on the regulator.

Posted on Jul 04, 2009

  • 13 Answers

SOURCE: speedometer, tack, fuel gauge, temp gauge have erattic behavior

With Ign. off what is your batt.voltage reading than take neg. cable off and take another reading 5 min. later. It sounds like a intermitten short, try to isolate voltage drop when acting up. Gauge circuit would be a good start. Schematic would be helpful.

Posted on Sep 02, 2009

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: Instrument panel went dead

Checked Every fuse in the fuse box (no small task).This includes #4 - Power point Instrument Panel, #14 - Day time running lamps (auto lamps doesn't work nor does auto lock), #27 - ignition switch run feed, #35 - Instrument Cluster, #41 - Instrument Cluster, #42 - Delayed Accessory, #45 - Ignition switch run/start feed, #102 - Door locks body security module, #103 - Ignition switch, #110 - Ignition switch, & #116 - Ignition switch. But I also check all other ones as well, they all register OK. AC panel & radio work. Turn signals work. Mileage does not work, trip computer does. So, basically, everything works except auto head-lights, auto locks, and the dash cluster (no MPH, RPM, mileage display, Fuel, Temp, Tran Temp, and Oil Pressure).

Posted on Sep 30, 2009

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