Question about 1999 Chrysler 300M

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When I push down on the brake pedal I hear air leaving the master brake the is mounted on the fire wall in the engine compartment. Is there a hose that could have come off?

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  • Chrysler Master
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Yes, there should be, and wiggle fitting that goes into booster, may just be bad seal for some reason.

Posted on May 18, 2009

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I have the same issue, when i hit the brake i hear like air coming out, , but the other thing to is that the are super hard to psh down there like stiff ! Is this a brake booster problem ?

Posted on Mar 23, 2012

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1 Answer

Step by step instructions for replacing brake booster on a 1999 Toyota Camry


its my pleasure to answer your question how to replace the brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Oct 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove brake booster on 1999 Toyota Camry


The following steps will help you to replace a Toyota Camry brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Oct 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i replace the brake booster on a 98 Mercury villager


12 specific steps will help you :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Sep 24, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I cannot bleed the clutch on my kia caranvil


First lets make sure we are on the same page here.Your saying you have no clutch resivioir and the system is feed from the brake master cylinder correct .Now the clutch has two clylinders the master witch atteches to the clutch pedal with the rod and it mounted on the fire wall . The slave cylinder is mounted between the bell houseing and the engine . And to replace this you would need to remove the transmission and actualy moves the pressure plate springs back when the pedal is depressed . Think of it like a light its eighter on or off and pushing the pedal down turns it off Normaly the clutch would be bleed at the slave cylinder there should be a bleeder fitting near the top of the bell hoseing. And should be bleed just a brake line no trick you just have to find the bleeder . Check for fluid at the clutch master on the pedal if you see any oil at all leaking you will never be able to keep it bleed sometimes there bad even when new .If oil can get out air is GETTING IN and it will constantly need to be rebleed. Any questions fell free to ask

Mar 19, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My brake pedal wont go down it is hard i have 93 dodge caravan hydralic brakes i belive


There is a brake booster, adjacient from the brake pedal under the hood mounted to the fire wall. It is black and about 10" in diameter. the master cylinder for the brakes is mounted to it. there is a rubber hose that comes from it that goes to the engine. it is a vacuum hose, about 1" in dianeter. Check this hose and make sure it is in good condition and has a strong vacuum to it from the engine. If it does then replace the brake booster. It has a diaphram it in and it is broken.

Jul 02, 2011 | Chevrolet C1500 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Install power brake booster on 1988 ford ranger


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure that the booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed if the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out. A dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel and extreme operation sensitivity. The disc is black compared to the silver colored valve plunger that will be exposed after the push rod and front seal is removed. The booster unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if the reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

  1. Disconnect the stop lamp switch wiring to prevent running the battery down.
  2. Support the master cylinder from the underside with a prop.
  3. Remove the master cylinder-to-booster retaining nuts.
  4. Loosen the clamp that secures the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve, and remove the hose. Remove the booster check valve.
  5. Pull the master cylinder off the booster and leave it supported by the prop, far enough away to allow removal of the booster assembly.
  6. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, remove the retaining pin and slide the stop lamp switch, push rod, spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm.
  7. From the engine compartment remove the bolts that attach the booster to the dash panel. To install:
  8. Mount the booster assembly on the engine side of the dash panel by sliding the bracket mounting bolts and valve operating rod in through the holes in the dash panel. NOTE: Make certain that the booster push rod is positioned on the correct side of the master cylinder to install onto the push pin prior to tightening the booster assembly to the dash.
  9. From inside the cab, install the booster mounting bracket-to-dash panel retaining nuts.
  10. Position the master cylinder on the booster assembly, install the retaining nuts, and remove the prop from underneath the master cylinder.
  11. Install the booster check valve. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve and secure with the clamp.
  12. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, install the bushing and position the switch on the end of the push rod. Then install the switch and rod on the pedal arm, along with spacers on each side, and secure with the retaining pin.
  13. Connect the stop lamp switch wiring.
  14. Start the engine and check brake operation.
Fig. 1: Check the booster pushrod adjustment using a gauge with the shown dimensions

tecnovative_78.gif
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the typical power brake booster tecnovative_79.gif Fig. 3: Booster vacuum hose connections - 2.3L & 2.9L

tecnovative_80.gif
Fig. 4: Booster vacuum hose connections for the 4.0L

tecnovative_81.gif

Feb 03, 2011 | 1988 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Van is hard to stop when you press on breaks. Break padel is very hard to push down when breaking. Wonder if there is some type of vaccum leak.


The vacuum booster is mounted on the fire wall behind the brake pedal. the master cylinder is mounted to it. there is a black hose that is connected to it. that is the vacuum hose. it goes to the intake manifold (engine). check to see if it has come off or is cracked or broken. if everything checks out check vacuum at the hose. if tis there then the diaphram in the booster is bad. replace the booster let me know if you need help with that

Jun 21, 2010 | 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan

3 Answers

Brakes stay soft even though they have been bled and the brake booster replaced. It sounds like there is an air leak somewhere. I replaced the master cylinder as well then they were bled and still I have...


If there are no brake line/fitting leaks and no crimped or bent brake lines/hoses:
The key to my answer is the sound of air leaking...
Check the Brake Booster to the rear of the Master Cylinder.
1. Check the Vacuum Hose going to the Air Resonator with the one way check valve. Make sure the Vacuum Hose does not have cracks, holes, etc.; or does not collapse with the engine on. If there are any problems with the hose - replace the hose. With the engine on: remove the Hose for the Resonator and check for a vacuum. CAREFULLY: Remove the Resonator and reconnect it to the Vacuum Hose. Again check for the presence of a vacuum coming from the inside of the Resonator. If the Hose had a vacuum, but the Resonator does not = Replace the Resonator. If there is a Vacuum - Reconnect the Vacuum Hose and Resonator to the Brake Booster

2. Checking the Brake Booster Seals:
a. While the Engine is running: Push in the brake pedal. Stop the Engine while keeping the Brake Pedal pushed in.
(1) If there is a change = the Brake Pedal sinks to the floor: The Brake Booster has a Air Leak.
(2) If there is no change = GO TO TEST 2 (#3 below)

3. Turn the engine on and wait a couple of minutes and turn the engine off. Push in the Brake Pedal several times.
a. If the Pedal goes down farther the first time, but continues to rise = gets harder after the 2nd, 3rd time the Brake Booster is fine.
b. If the Pedal continue to go farther down on each push = the Brake Booster has a leak.

One seal in particular - located where the Brake Booster is attached to the Fire Wall - located behind the Brake Pedal Arm. Check the mounting bolts for tightness. With the engine on and a partner pushing on the Brake pedal: try to determine if that rear seal is where the air is leaking from.
Any Air Leak in the Brake Booster Main Seals = a new (remanufactured) Brake Booster must be purchased, as these are not repairable.

Let me know if this helped. or if you have additional information or questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!

May 13, 2010 | 1998 Plymouth Breeze

3 Answers

My power brakes failed and i can hear an air leak,


IF YOUR HEARING IT IN THE CAB YOU MAY HAVE A LEAK AT THE BOOSTER WHERE THE PEDAL ENTERS IT GET UNDER THE DASH AND PRESS THE PEDAL BY HAND AND SEE IF YOU CAN HEAR IT COMING FROM WHERE THE PEDAL ROD GOES INTO THE FIRE WALL

Dec 09, 2009 | 1999 Dodge Intrepid

1 Answer

Any info on changing a brake booster on a 1996 Sierra and also help trouble shooting a master cy. Thanxlinder


a defective master has just one common symptom, a soft sinking pedal.
Instructions Things You'll Need:
  • Nose pliers
  • Ratchet and socket
  • Ratchet extension
  • Slip joint pliers
  • Wrench
  • New cotter pin
    Removing the Old Brake Booster
  1. Step 1 Park your car in a safe place with enough room to work around the front and driver side of the vehicle.
  2. Step 2 Locate the booster push rod connected to the brake pedal.
  3. Step 3 Remove the cotter pin securing the booster push rod pin to the brake pedal using a pair of nose pliers.
  4. Step 4 Release the push rod pin from the brake pedal and slide the push rod off the brake pedal.
  5. Step 5 Unscrew the four mounting nuts off the brake booster studs using a ratchet, ratchet extension and socket. You should be able to see the four booster studs extending through the firewall, in front of the brake pedal.
  6. Step 6 Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster, working from the engine compartment. Use a pair of slip joint pliers.
  7. Step 7 Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the brake booster. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  8. Step 8 Separate the brake master cylinder from the booster just enough to make room for booster removal.
  9. Step 9 Pull the brake booster off the firewall and remove it from the vehicle.
    Installing the New Brake Booster
  10. Step 1 Set the new booster in place by sliding the push rod and four mounting studs through the mounting holes on the firewall.
  11. Step 2 Slide the brake master cylinder flange over the two mounting studs on the brake booster.
  12. Step 3 Start the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts by hand to avoid damage to the threads.
  13. Step 4 Tighten the two brake master cylinder mounting nuts using a wrench or ratchet and socket.
  14. Step 5 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
  15. Step 6 Screw the four mounting nuts to the brake booster working from inside the vehicle. Start the nuts by hand to avoid damaging the threads.
  16. Step 7 Tighten the four mounting nuts using the ratchet, ratchet extension and socket.
  17. Step 8 Position the brake booster push rod over the brake pedal and slide the push rod pin.
  18. Step 9 Install a new cotter pin to secure the booster push rod to the brake pedal

Nov 20, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sierra

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