Question about 2000 Ford Focus

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My RPM is always at 3000

Whenever I start the engine, the RPM goes a little less than 3000 RPM and stays there until I take the ignition key out. Engine works fine and everything else but the RPM gauge. Is there anyway I can fix this.

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  • Ford Master
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It sounds like you have a stuck IAC, Idle Air Control Valve. It meters air in when the throttle plate is colosed (foot off gas).

Autozone can scan for fault codes for free.

May just need cleaning. Try that first.

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve —2.0L SPI Removal

  1. Disconnect the idle air control (IAC) valve electrical connector (air cleaner outlet tube removed for clarity).
my RPM  is always at 3000 - 747ea95.gif
  1. Remove the IAC valve.
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  1. Remove and discard the IAC valve gasket.

Posted on May 20, 2009

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1 Answer

Check trans light pops up when I put the key in ignition and start the truck up then it goes off and the Rpm rev for a little bit


You didn't mention the year, make, or model of your truck, but it's irrelevant.
As long as the light turns off once the engine is running, nothing to worry about.
It is normal for an electronically-controlled engine to "rev" momentarily when it is first started but, if the RPMs stay over 1000 for more than a minute, there's a problem.

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P0351-IGNITION COIL #1 PRIMARY CIRCUIT

WHEN MONITORED
With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 13 volts with engine running. Engine RPM less than 3000. No coil in dwell during test.

SET CONDITION
Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
- Ignition coil
- Intermittent condition
- ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Ignition coil driver circuit shorted to ground
- PCM

P0352-IGNITION COIL #2 PRIMARY CIRCUIT

TEST NOTE
This symptom is diagnosed using the test P0351-IGNITION COIL #1 PRIMARY CIRCUIT.

WHEN MONITORED
With battery voltage greater than 8 volts during engine cranking or greater than 13 volts with engine running. Engine RPM less than 3000. No coil in dwell during test.

SET CONDITION
Peak current is not achieved with battery based dwell plus 1.5 msec of diagnostic offset. It takes less than 3 seconds during cranking or up to 6 seconds while running to set.

POSSIBLE CAUSES
- Ignition coil
- Intermittent condition
- ASD relay output circuit
- Ignition coil driver circuit open
- Ignition coil driver circuit shorted to ground
- PCM
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Maybe a short to the TPS or something shorting it out. There's also the IAC that really controls the idle but usually it will cause the RPM's to go up and down a little erratic if bad. The MAF sensor can cause major problems as well but since you already swapped the TPS and it helped and then stopped I would focus on that sensor and especially it's wiring to and from the ECM. Be careful with the sensor signal wire to the ECM can blow it if more than 5v passes or spikes.

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Diagnostic codes


Please rate me solved...thanks!
DTC P1259: VTEC SYSTEM MALFUNCTION
1. Perform PCM reset procedure. See SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. Start engine
and run at 3000 RPM with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral until radiator fan comes on. Road
test vehicle. Accelerate in 1st gear to an engine speed over 4000 RPM and hold that engine speed for at
least 2 seconds. If DTC P1259 is not indicated during first road test, repeat road test 2 more times. If DTC
P1259 is indicated, go to next step. If DTC P1259 is not indicated, problem is intermittent. System is
okay at this time. Check for poor connections or loose wires at VTEC solenoid valve connector and PCM.
See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. Repair as necessary.
2. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC pressure switch 2-pin connector. Check for continuity between
VTEC pressure switch terminals. If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace
VTEC pressure switch.
3. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and VTEC pressure switch harness connector terminal
No. 2 (Blue/Black wire). If about 12 volts exist, go to next step. If about 12 volts do not exist, check for
an open or short in Blue/Black wire between VTEC pressure switch and PCM 31-pin connector "C"
terminal No. 10. Repair as necessary. If wire is okay, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See
SUBSTITUTING PCM in SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem
goes away, replace original PCM.
4. Measure voltage between VTEC pressure switch harness connector terminals. If battery voltage exists, go
to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Brown/Black wire between VTEC pressure
switch and ground connector located on left side of engine, under throttle plate, between end of radiator
hose and cooling fan switch. See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If wire is
okay , substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See SUBSTITUTING PCM in SELFDIAGNOSTICS
- INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem goes away, replace original PCM.
5. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve connector. Measure resistance between ground and
VTEC solenoid valve connector. See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If
resistance is 14-30 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 14-30 ohms, replace VTEC solenoid valve.
6. Remove VTEC pressure switch and install Pressure Gauge Adaptor (07NAJ-P07010A) and A/T Low
Pressure Gauge (07406-0070300). Reinstall VTEC pressure switch into adaptor. Connect tachometer.
Start engine and with no loads and transmission in Park or Neutral until radiator fan comes on. Because
engine is running with no load, oil pressure must be checked within one minute. Check oil pressure at
engine speeds of 1000, 2000 and 3000 RPM. If oil pressure is less than 7 psi (48 kPa), go to next step. If
oil pressure is 7 psi (48 kPa) or more, check VTEC solenoid valve. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT
TESTING article.
7. Turn ignition off. Disconnect VTEC solenoid valve connector. Connect a fused jumper wire between
battery voltage and VTEC solenoid valve connector. Start engine and check oil pressure at 3000 RPM. If
oil pressure is more than 57 psi (393 kPa), go to next step. If oil pressure is 57 psi (393 kPa) or less,
check VTEC solenoid valve. See SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING article.
8. Ensure jumper wire is still connected to VTEC solenoid valve connector. Start engine and allow it to idle.
Set engine speed to more than 4000 RPM and measure voltage between ground and PCM 31-pin
connector "C" terminal No. 10 (Blue/Black wire). See ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING
DIAGRAMS article. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, replace
VTEC pressure switch.
9. Turn ignition off and disconnect jumper wire. Check for continuity between VTEC solenoid valve
harness connector and PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12 (Green/Yellow wire). See Fig. 2 . See
ENGINE PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If continuity exists, go to next step. If
continuity does not exist, repair open in Green/Yellow wire between VTEC solenoid valve connector and
PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12.
10. Check for continuity between ground and VTEC solenoid valve connector. See ENGINE
PERFORMANCE WIRING DIAGRAMS article. If continuity exists, repair short in Green/Yellow
wire between VTEC solenoid valve connector and PCM 25-pin connector "B" terminal No. 12. If
continuity does not exist, substitute a known-good PCM and recheck. See SUBSTITUTING PCM in
SELF-DIAGNOSTICS - INTRODUCTION article. If symptom or problem goes away, replace original
PCM

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