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Clutch slowly releases with out taking foot of pedal

1997 hiace commuter van and have bled it but the clutch releases while pedal is all the way down

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 3,103 Answers

Pedal plunger is bleeding off pressure or the clutch cylinder is bad..replace both..

Posted on Dec 26, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: clutch pedal sticks

it is the slave cylinder, just fixed that problem

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

latoss101
  • 47 Answers

SOURCE: Where can I check the clutch fluid on a Toyota hiace 1997?

you can find the bake fluid pot ether under the dashbord or under the engine cover its got a silver top on it ok
this should anser youre qestion

Posted on Jan 03, 2009

  • 1596 Answers

SOURCE: rover 600 1997 not engaging any gears when clutch fully depressed

Sounds like the SLave Cylinder has givin up Possible the Reli=eice Bearing I ALWAYS Replace As A PAIR . If you can put in gear by having someone rock the car front to back and it holds well its pretty Obvious that you DO have A Clutch Master Cylinder or Clutch Slave aat Releice Bearing Problem AGAIN These Parts I REPLACE AS A PAIR. Before ANything Chech Fluid Level that will tell the store IF FULL Most Probably MASTER-- If EMPTY then See where it went Look At SLAVE if wet thats the Culpret. --->> I Hope this INFO helps you and have a good Day >> Please dont forget to RATE me ok ? Thank You

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

  • 73 Answers

SOURCE: emergency brake foot pedal not working

Sounds like the cable is stuck also check the catch on the foot pedel

Posted on Mar 13, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75184 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedel pushes to the floor

pump the pedal about 10 times and see if it comes back up, u need to pump the caliper pistons out after a brake job.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

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1 Answer

How do I fix my clutch pedal


Sounds like the clutch release bearing (throwout bearing) is seized in place.

Sep 27, 2015 | 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe

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My 1997 uno panel van 1100 wont go into gear if eninge is running


Clutch kit problem. Check pressure plate and release bearing.

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I need to adjust my clutch



Pre 1997/9 models of Fords were self-adjusting via the clutch-foot-pedal. The pedal engages a ratchet system called the QUADRANT & PAWL and is part of the pedal. The mechanism is very similar on older Ford models of: Escort, Fiesta, Sierra, Granada, Transit & others. Newer vehicles may have a Hydraulic Clutch from 1997/9 onwards, and these work differently from the cable & pully mechanism. Clutch-fluid can be bled to improve the ability to operate the clutch, however this is not necessarily a method of adjusting the clutch.

If your reading this article because you have a broken clutch-pedal then please read on.

If when pressing the foot-pedal it feels like cable is broken, or pedal is loose, ...This is symptomatic of failure of the QUADRANT & PAWL 'ratchet' mechanism due to wear of teeth on the ratchet.

In some cases the pedal fails to pull the clutch out far enough to change gear, and may make a 'springing noise'. This is due to slippage on some worn ratchet-teeth, but the mechanism has not reached full failure.
There are 2 ways to remedy the fault.

1. Change the Quadrant & Pawl, using only genuine Ford parts. #Beware of inferior mouldings that are not up to standard e.g. too soft, and do not trust 'pattern-parts' on ebay etc.

2. SHORTEN THE CABLE.
  • Disconnect the FOOT-PEDAL-SPRING to release the slack normally taken up by the 'Quadrant & Pawl' (ratchet) which is faulty.
  • Remove end of nipple from clutch-cable (engine-end).
  • Fill slack with bolts & washers or other filler.
  • Drill hole in LARGE nut & bolt (like split pin but inverted).
  • FIT NUT & BOLT TO REMAINING PART OF CLUTCH-CABLE NIPPLE.

ONLY CUT VERY END OF CABLE-NIPPLE LEAVING AS MUCH CRIMP AS POSSIBLE, ...then clamp the nut & bolt over the crimp. This is less likely to slip or even cut cable.

Clutch-cable should be able to be re-fitted without tools or tensioning the clutch-arm. Final tension of cable should leave CLUTCH ARM & CABLE SLIGHTLY LOOSE.

NOTE : Overadjustment of clutch can cause damage. Therfore only remove a minimum of slack from the cable.

Mar 21, 2011 | 1999 Ford Escort

1 Answer

1997 Saturn SC1 with manual transmission, slipping when driving. Not sure if it is clutch, tranny or something else. Replaced speed sensor in axle/diff and improved but still there.


you can check if its the clutch by puting car in 4th gear and releasing clutch pedal slowly if the pedal travels a long way out and the engine just spins then its the clutch.

Mar 21, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SC

1 Answer

Nissan 1400 champ front brakes binding, brake paddle stays high.


This indicates that you have air in the brake system or something isn't mounted properly. You'll need to inspect to see if there is anything not properly mounted, I'll deal with the brake bleeding:

You will need to bleed the brakes from the right rear first, then the left rear, right front, then left front brake, all without letting the brake Master Cylinder resivoir from getting low while doing the bleeding.

You may even want to start with the master cylinder to make sure it's bled properly by loosening the lines there first, bleeding them & then continuing to the system. Use the guide below for best results.

Bleeding brakes properly:
1. 2 people are required to do this properly, forget one man bleeders, they do work, but don't talk back or identify problems as they can't see what's happening. As a safety feature it's good to have another person nearby when someone is getting underneath a vehicle. Even my wife has had to do the pedal pushing in my household when I didn't have an assistant and needed to bleed either a brake system, or a clutch system.

2. Never let the fluid go beneath half way down when bleeding the brakes.

3. When adding fluid to the master cylinder, use a funnel to allow the fluid to run down the side into the cylinder, or use a syringe to prevent air from entering the fluid as you pour it.

4. Always pump the brakes slowly, release them slowly. Fast pedal action causes the fluid to rise into the air, allowing air to enter the system.

5. Pressurize the system by pumping repeatedly until the pedal is as firm as it will get, continue to hold that pedal down until the person bleeding the brakes, has released the air by loosening the bleeder valve, then make sure the line is tightened BEFORE releasing the brake pedal slowly. Pump the pedal again to build pressure, & bleed the brake again the same way until air stops coming out & only good fluid is seen. Proceed to the next farthest line.

If done this way, the brakes will be properly bled and if there are no leaks, the system should work properly. If you identify a leak, repair and start over.

good luck

Dec 27, 2009 | 1997 Nissan Pickup

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