1994 Bronco will not start and cluster battery light stays on
In the last year I have replaced the starter, battery, starter solenoid, distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires (most recently the solenoid, cap, rotor, plugs and wires). Bronco will start at the begining of the day, but after it has been driven to work and turned off it usually will not start again. When I turn the key and try to start it, the engine cranks but will not turn over. It usually takes numerous attempts before it turns over.
I feel it may be one of three different items; starter is going out again (causing battery light to stay on), ignition switch going bad or fuel pump/relay. PLEASE HELP
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I need to know model year? I looked at wiring for 1990 ford bronco. 5.oL engine.
The gasoline engine shows a starter relay that is not mounted to starter motor.
The diesel engine showed starter solenoid mounted to starter. I'm not sure which engine you have? They both have a starter relay.
I think your headed in the right direction, I need more info.
It definetly sounds like starter motor issue....there are 2 circuits within the starter motor, one is the pullin winding, that brings the gear close to the flywheel, and the motor windings that "cranks" the motor. It sounds like the pull in windings are working but the cranking circuit has failed.
This requires a starter motor replacement.......what you can do is "lightly" tap the starter motor with a blunt object and it might start once or twice, but a replacement is highly suggested.
Just answered identical problem in another make of vehicle. There are 2 possibilities for your problem. A bad Keyswitch and/or a bad Starter Solenoid. I assume your Bronco did not start, which is a good thing. You could have damaged the teeth on the flywheel if the engine started.
You may need to replace the Keyswitch. It is suppose to send a signal to the "tickler" wires on the Solenoid, connecting the Battery to the Starter. Either the Keyswitch shorted and continued to power the Solenoid, or the Solenoid shorted and Welded a connection after the Keyswitch was turned OFF.
Remove the small wires to the Solenoid. If the Solenoid is welded internally, the Battery will spark when you try to connect the Battery cables and the Starter will spin. This would mean the Keyswitch may still be good, do not reattach the small wires yet.
You would need a testlight or Voltmeter to test each small "tickler" wire by attaching the testlight to a Ground and the other end to the tickler wire. When you turn the Key to Start, the light should Glow. It should not Glow all the time.
My advice is to replace both the Keyswitch and the Solenoid because of the wear they encountered with the malfunction. Then when you get the Bronco to start, go to Autozone or Oreillys for a Starter draw test to see if the Starter was damaged by your other problems. Both of those Parts stores test and scan for free.
Define "won't start"? Is it cranking but won't fire up, or is it just not cranking at all? If it is not cranking at all I would check to make sure that your battery terminals are tight and all the connections to the starter soloneid are tight. Also check the connections on the starter, fords are notorious for loosening up to the point that the vehicle will not start. If you still have the same problem you can take a screwdriver and hold it accross the terminals on the starter solenoid on the fender. If the starter engages then your solenoid is bad and you need to replace it. If that starter does not engage you have a starter problem. I would also verify that all of your ignition fuses are good.
If you truck cranks but does not start that could be other problems. You would have to check for fuel and spark.
Ford full size Broncos are somewhat easy,i own one.if you hear a click from the starter solenoid under the hood on the passengers side fender,then the solenoid is good and the ignition switch is working.So,reach underneath and lightly hit the starter with a hammer a few times,if it starts then replace the starter..By hitting the starter causes the brushes to connect which most of the time will make it work,but that trick only lasts a few times.A new brush kit is only about $20.00 if you know how to fix them,but its really easy anyways.A new starter is about $90.00,the hardest part is the top bolt on the starter which holds it to the transmission,they rust and come out harder,tools needed is:13 mm 6 point shallow well socket,swivel,and about 9 inches worth of extensions,a wratchet,and for the wire that connects to the starter i believe a 14 mm socket,be careful with the little wire,the connector on the end may break.
Remove starter wire from solenoid and firmly touch it to the other wire on solenoid. It will spark some, starter should crank if working; providing battery power is good and the battery connections are clean. Check the heavy ground wire from battery to where it's connected to the engine or body are clean. If not, starter is bad.
take a test light and check the small wire that for the ignition switch, is there power going to the solinoid? if so then need to have someone start it and test to see if there power for sol to starter. if so then starter is at fault or just take a jumper from batter to starter and see if it works. if so then sol may be your issuel