I am wanting to change the front drivers side wheel bearing assembly, but I cant get the axel nut off. The replacement assembly which includes the new nut to go on the axle fit fine in my 1 1/8' deep socket, but the nut on my axle right now, just wont fit. So I cant get it off.
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If you still think the noise is coming from the left side CV joint it would be more advisable to replace the entire axle as an assembly. For the time and effort it takes, you can usually get a rebuilt axle assembly for only a few dollars more than the CV joint and the boot required to repair one. You will need a large axle nut socket (usually 30 - 32mm) to remove the axle nut. The lower ball joint and tie rod will need to be separated along with the brake caliper and rotor, from the spindle. I would recheck the grinding noise before doing it. A lot of wheel bearings are mistakenly diagnosed to the wrong side. If the noise is loudest when turning left, most people would assume the left side wheel bearing is at fault. However if the noise is loudest turning left it indicates the right side wheel bearing is most likely at fault. Due to the weight distribution of the front end, turning left the weight all transfers to the right side, loading that bearing. Make sure thats not the case before tackling an axle.
the humming sounds like a wheel bearing problem cavaliers are notorious for the bearings going out i have changed many of them, i would change both front wheel bearings at the same time and not just one it will save you in the long run. hope this helped
Easiest approach is to change entire axle. Depends on car, but generally remove wheel, remove axle nut, loosen lower ball joint and separate wheel assy from a-frame. In some cases, tie rod end must be taken loose. Wheel bearing assembly must now be pulled out swinging about the strut to allow axel spindle to come out of the bearing. Once axle is out of the bearing, place a drip pan under the trans and pull the axle out of the trans. Reverse procedure to reinstall.
There are no "tire bushings". There is a complete front wheel bearing assembly that if bad, will need to be replaced. There are also no lube fittings on any of these assembly's. You need to remove the entire brake assembly, rotors, calipers, and caliper mount just to get to the nut for the front wheel bearing. Then you have to take cotter pin out of the main nut on the end of the axle, and take off the nut locking nut, you will need a 32mm socket, (if memory serves me correctly) to take the axle nut off. Then there will be 3 bolts on the back side of the axle housing that will need to come out, unplug your electronic brake wire, and the wheel bearing should fall right out.
place the vehicle on a lift (preferred) and remove the RH front wheel. Remove the driver axel retaining nut (1 1/4" nut) and washer. Remove the lower ball joint retaining nut (17mm nut). Using a 10 oz hammer, strike the nuckle where the lower ball joint is attached to it (be careful not to strike the grease boot) while applying downward force on the lower control arm until it pops loose. Once loose, pry down on the lower control are while simultaneously moving the strut to one side untill the joint is clear/away from the knuckle. Now remove the drive axel from the the spline of the hub bearing. Using a pry bar, pop loose the axel from the transmission differential. Installation of the new axel is in reverse order.
Remove the brake components from the axle, Refer toBrakes.
Remove the cotter pin and axle hub nut.
Remove the hub to knuckle bolts Hub and Knuckle Remove the hub bearing from the steering knuckle and axle shaft
Remove the brake dust shield.
Remove the axle shaft from the housing. Avoid damaging the axle shaft oil seal.
Clean the axle shaft and apply a thin film of Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to the shaft splines, seal contact surface, hub bore. Install the axle shaft into the housing and differential side gears. Avoid damaging the axle shaft oil seals in the differential.
Install dust shield and hub bearing on knuckle.
Install the hub bearing to knuckle bolts and tighten to 170 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) torque.
Install the axle washer and nut, tighten nut to 237 N·m (175 ft. lbs.) torque. Align nut to next cotter pin hole and install new cotter pin.
Remove the wheel and the brake caliper. Remove the two 18mm bolts that
hold the brake caliper bracket, and remove it and the rotor. Remove the
small bolt that holds the antilock brake sensor and remove the sensor.
Remove the 32mm axle nut. The nut may be hard to remove but it is right
hand thread. You can remove the two 18mm bolts from the bottom of the
strut and swing the whole wheel bearing assembly out just barely far
enough to remove the axle without removing the lower ball joint. The
axle is splined in the wheel bearing assembly and you can knock it out
with a block of hard wood and a hammer. Reach back along the axle with
a long extension and remove the two nuts holding the axle carrier
bearing. Be careful not to let the axle fall down and damage the axle
seal in the transmission. The axle should slide easily out of the
transmission and only a tiny bit of fluid will leak out. Hope this
helps. Good luck.