Question about 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Hello! First of all, congrats on owning a great car! That engine (3.8L Series II L67) is without a doubt one of the finest GM (Buick) has ever produced!
On to your problem - I think you have one of 2 things wrong:
1) a loose heat shield
2) a broken exhaust hanger
Both of these will cause intermittent (and highly annoying) rattling sounds, especially at low speeds or when the engine is under load (like going up a hill for instance). There are 2 hangers under the car located almost directly under the front floorboard. These are prone to breakage. There is also a heat shield in this same area - that is very prone to coming loose. If it's the heat shield - you can either remove it - or have it tack welded. If the hanger(s) are broken, you will need to take it to an exhaust shop (unless you know a welder :) ) and have those fixed - shouldn't cost you more than $20 either way.
Hope this helps and good luck!
Posted on Sep 24, 2009
I would start with a belt. While removing it feel how much tension the tensioner has on it, on the 3800 egnine they have a stiff tensioner(sorry I don't have any specs for how much) After you get the belt off you can look at all of the pulleys and spin them to see if the bind or look for stuff stuck in the grooves on the pulleys.
It sounds to me like the belt is streched. I would not recommend one of those gator back belts, they seem to make more noise sooner than a good v notch belt. But thats just my opinion!
Posted on Oct 25, 2009
The oil should be changed every 30K miles according to the Pontiac manual.
However, it is best to change it sooner or whenever you don't know when the last change was done.
Posted on Jan 09, 2010
The thermostat housing is located in the upper radiator hose. You will see a metal elbow secured by two bolts into what I remember is the upper intake manifold...don't quote me on that but you will see it regardless of whatever I call it. Anyways, GM decided it was a good idea to put stainless steel bolts in there but that makes it easy to strip the threads in the bolt hole so I think it's best when you put your wrench on the bolt to just tap on the handle till you vibrate it loose, then turn it.
When you pull off the housing you'll lose a little coolant and it will create an air pocket which we'll address. It's a 50/50 chance that the thermostat housing gasket will either stick to the housing or the engine...it may be torn, cracked or flaking in either case clean both contact surfaces before you replace the gasket. I recommend an oil impregnated poly material gasket.
Note the position of the thermostat in the hole and place the new one in as such.
I recommend a 180 degree thermostat...stock is 195 but the GTP runs better with the 180.
Put on gasket and reinstall the hose/housing assembly, alternate from one bolt to the other so the housing mates flat and cannot cause a leak.
Next, fill the coolant overflow bottle to the "HOT" mark. If the bottle is dirty and hard to see just put a light on top of the bottle...GM didn't mark it very well so if it's not squeaky clean you can hardly see a damn thing.
*IMPORTANT** if your car still has Dexcool in it, DUMP IT. It will eventually destroy the motor.
If not...continue on. Start the car. Go back to the thermostat housing and place a rag on top of, and twist the peacock valve on top of it to let the air out until it starts to get coolant on the rag. Done.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
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