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Hello, If you Chrysler has replaceable wheel bearings and seal. This is the way
it goes---pack the wheel bearing with new grease-install the bearing in the
wheel nub--install new back wheel seal--coat the axle shaft with grease lightly,
thing coat-----install wheel hub on to axle shaft...be careful here don't damage
the rear hub seal------------insert front race washer---install axle shaft
nut--tighten nut down wheel nut until it is firm with water pump pliers----spin
the hub/with tire mounted.
(the wheel and hub will turn but not freely)----take the pliers and back off
the axle nut 1/4 turn----now spin the wheel and axle hub, it should spin
freely---now if doesn't spin freely---back off the axle nut about 1/16 or 1/32
(or just a little bit)-----now, spin the wheel and hub and if turn
freely------------Now grab the top of the wheel/tire and move it back and
forth.-----if there is some movement ---try tighten the axle nut just a little
little bit, unit the one can barely feel some little movement in the wheel/tire and hub.-----------Now, spin the
wheel/tire and hub and it should also turn freely.
If it does----install new and correct size of cotter pin and bent the ends
around the axle nut.----
coat the inside of the hub cup with grease. Now, use an rubber or plastic
hammer to install the cup on the wheel/tire hub. You are finished with one wheel
bearing maintenance. Now do the other side.
I really don't know if you Chrysler Cirrus has replaceable wheel bearing. All
the auto/trucks have replaceable hubs, that means that the replacement is total
hub with axle shaft, sealed bearings, and seals. This is bolt to each wheel
steering hub. This work to remove these one unit hubs.
Four bolts hold the axle hub to the steering hub. Hear is the problem!! it
has rusted to the steering hub. Also, these hubs cost more than replacing
bearings, races, seals to cool turn of $180 to $250+ I wish you luck in your
replacement of wheel bearing on your Chrysler. GB..stewbison
Unfortunately you do not always get "play" in the bearing and they are unserviceable. Replace the entire unit. Here are the instructions for replacement. They bolt into place making it pretty easy to do. Soak the CV shaft which pertrudes from the hub where the nut goes with a good rust penetrant to ease in removal.
Removal & Installation
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Front wheelWheel Speed Sensor (WSS) electrical connectorBrake caliper and bracketRotorDriveshaft nut
Install a front hub removal tool to the wheel bearing/hub assembly with three wheel nuts. Use the tool to push the driveshaft out of the wheel bearing/hub.
Remove the wheel bearing/hub assembly and discard the bolts.
Install or connect the following:
Wheel bearing/hub assembly using new bolts and torque them to 96 ft. lbs. (130 Nm)New drive shaft nut and torque it to 118 ft. lbs. (160 Nm)Brake rotorFront caliper with the bracketWSS electrical connectorFront wheel
most of the time when there is a humming noise other then a brake noise you have a wheel bearing bad the best way to tell if it is a wheel bearing making noise is while you are driving down the road and the vehicle is making the noise slightly turn the steering wheel left to right if the noise changes at all replace the wheel bearings gm cars are notorious for wheel bearing
good luck chris
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?
You probably have a bad tire or wheel bearing. Either the tire is cupped causing humming noise or grease inside sealed wheel bearing is burnt up. I would take front tire and move to the back of the car. Then drive again. If noise stays the same you probably have a bad wheel bearing. If noise moves to the back of the car than you may need to replace the tire. Most likely it is the wheel bearing, I replace them all the time at my shop
Two possible problems both related to that bearing change. 1. Was the bearing packed with grease before it was installed? If not, another new bearing is required properly packed with grease. They don't come packed when you by the bearing, only lubed.
2. Incorrect torque on wheel bearing bolt. If you do not have the specs. a good rule of thumb is with the nut just slightly tight and the wheel and tire installed but jacked up, spin the tire by hand and tighten the bolt to a point that the tire will not make 1 full revolution. JUST! ie. 355 degrees.