Hi...I recently had my front struts with boots replaced in my 1997 RAV4. This took care of the old BOING sound I was having but gave me a new one, a rattle from the front left wheel area whenever I drive over minor bumps and dings in the road. My mechanic charged me more to replace the stabilizer links but that didn't affect the rattle. What else can it be? Can the new strut be bad? Is it my mechanic's fault or just a snowball deterioration of my car's suspension?
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Re: front suspension noises, bad new struts?
It sounds like the mechanic may have left the upper strut nut a bit loose, you may want to ask him to check it, but be nice, Toyota had some problems with upper strut mounts. These are on the top of the strut, they hold them to the body of the car. Unfortunately you have to remove and disassemble the struts to replace them. You could try asking your mechanic to just replace the one side and try it. I'm pretty sure that's your problem and he may give you a break since he's done all the other work. There is also a bulletin on a rattle from the side view mirror, but I think since this just started with the strut job, the mount is your most likely cause. Google: toyota upper strut mount rattle
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take it back to the garage. maybe not the new rack but the L or r upper strut spring mount binding causing the spring to twist then to boing back into place. not the techs fault mind you.when the suspension is hung garbage is dislocated around the bearing.
CV joints will only click when the wheel is turned. Normally this is due to a torn boot and the grease gets EVERYWHERE in the front suspension. The clicking could also be that you need to bend back your dust shield that goes behind your brake rotor. You could have hit it when doing the strut and it is making contact with the brake rotor. As far as the shaking, this could be a number of different things. I would make sure the rest of your front end it tight. Check the ball joints, wheel bearings, tie rod ends, strut mounts, and wheels.
Yes loosening the top strut/bracket is needed to adjust the alignment, the rear should be fine unless there is damage to rear suspension compontents that need replaced, however for that vehicle just the front.
See if you can bounce car and replicate the noise. If you can, you should be able to find it, and put your hand on it. Stabilizer bushing are a place to look, both at the lower a arm and on the frame. If you narrow it down to the strut, it will need to be replaced. The front trans mount also goes bad, try putting it in drive with your foot on the brake and give it some gas and see if the engine moves an excessive amount.
front stuts need replacement, buy this point it would be both. you can tell most of the time buy if you hit a pot hole on the left and it makes a nosie thats the side. but after a few days of driving like this both are in bad shape and need replacement.
there is no bearing its just the strut, you can tell buy getting a jack stand and lifting the front and moving the tire side to side and back to front. usaly anything over 10-20 thouthands of an inch is bad, and that mean if you feel it it's bad.
but anyways to replace it you will need a sop, you have to compress your front srping in order to remove and install a strut.
Upper strut mounts aren't prone to rattling or knocking as they are usually under load all the time. Very few cars do not have a swivel bearing - a few old Fords are all I can think of. Most current models have the swivel bearing integrated into the strut mount, the main job of which is to insulate road noise from the body. Some cars use a swivel bearing fitted between the strut and lower spring cup.
Worn shock absorber internal valves can be very noisy over small bumps and road undulations and wear in steering rack components can make similar noises especially the rack slipper bearing, the rack end support bearing and the rack end joints.
Many track control arm ball joints have an internal spring to compensate for small amounts of wear. When such a joint has worn significantly it is not always possible to detect free play with hand pressure but they are liable to make noise on the road.
Struts that are housings fitted with shock absorber cartridges retained by a single large nut - the nut can sometimes be loose by a small amount causing the cartridge to knock inside the casing.
The strut piston rod and bush is subject to a great deal of force from the reaction of acceleration and braking and considerable wear can take place between the rod and it's bush. The trouble is any free play cannot be detected when the vehicle is jacked and the wheels clear of the ground and similarly cannot be detected with normal force when the vehicle weight is on the ground. I find lifting the car until the suspension is only compressed an inch or two gives the best chance of detecting wear though considerable strength and energy is still needed.