Question about 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

Jeep needs to crank twice to start + rich gas smells once started

The jeep cranks for too long before it actually starts. I'll crank it for a little bit ( 3-4 seconds) and it won't start. I'll crank it a second time (3-4 seconds) then the engine will actually start but I smell "rich" gas coming from the muffler. Do you by chance know why I have to crank the starter so much?

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  • dingodelgado May 17, 2009

    it's a 4.7L, it happens all the time (all year long/every day). mostly happens in it's warm. after driving for a while and even short time frames (5 - 10 minutes)

  • dingodelgado May 17, 2009

    i've done that, it's supposed to give me codes but there's nothing right now. it just says done. i've even tried starting it after i've turn it to the ON position and it still crank for a while.



    the codes i've gotten before were a P0455, P0300, P0301, P0303, P0305. these come up when after use it for a few days. i'm pretty sure it's because it has such a bad time starting that it just effects some other things.

  • dingodelgado May 17, 2009

    the last two comments are for motor1258, i'm not too sure how to actually reply to just you but my last two comments were me answering your questions, i have no problem answering questions to help a diagnosis. thank a lot for replying!

  • dingodelgado May 18, 2009

    motor1258,



    the spark plugs aren't wet. when i turn the key to the ON position a couple times and it actually started right away but there was still a strong odor of gas coming from the exhaust.

  • dingodelgado May 18, 2009

    The P0455 I've had that "fixed" before....I was told that they replaced some valves and that there wasn't a leak anymore. There's a rubber tube that's connected from the EVAP canister to the EVAP purge solenoid, that tube is really cracked (right at the point where it connects to the canister) and taped up around the cracks at the EVAP canister. I believe that the rubber tubing is the cause of the P0455. It's hard for me to check the vavles leading away from the EVAP canister. I'll have to look harder at the vavles.

  • dingodelgado May 18, 2009

    I took the jeep in to the jeep dealership today and they did a diagnostic test ($159). To me it didn't seem like it they did much. They just ended up telling me that they still didn't know if there was a leak in the fuel injections, fuel rails in the O rings, or if it's a faulty fuel pump. With them not knowing if it's a leak in the fuel system is ridiculous. Isn't that the point of the diagnostic test?...

  • dingodelgado May 19, 2009

    The mechanic told me they did see a decrease in the pressure but they couldn't tell where it was coming from. I'm taking the chance of letting them fix the problem. Probably a bad idea, it's costly too...not the funnest part of this whole thing. I've had people tell me so many things of what could be the problem and now it's getting to the point where I, a barely novice fixer upper, can't do it myself on this jeep.



    I think I should be getting it back tomorrow (5/19) and I asked for copies of the diagnostic test as well as anything else that I need. I'm hoping that I'll be able to see what they took out and "fixed". Just kind of feel like I'm being cheated on this whole thing. Once I get the jeep and all the copies I'll let you know how it goes.

  • dingodelgado May 19, 2009

    Thanks, definitely will ask for the old parts back.



    they actually just got back to me about an hour ago telling me that there was a fuel leak in the 7th injector. they're going to test the pressure, seeing if it drops again and if it does they're going to fix the fuel pump.

  • dingodelgado May 20, 2009

    so after 633 dollars of work it seems to be pretty good. though they gave me a list of other things that need to be worked on and some "do-it-yourself" guidlines. the labor for this job was 495 itself, extremely high. then again i don't know how hard it might have been for that. the parts were 68 for the injector and 28 for the O ring kit. i didn't start it this morning before work but i did do it last night at about 8:30, the car had been sitting for about 3-3 and a half hours, it started pretty well. they didn't keep the old part(s) because i didn't ask for them when we first met so they tossed them.



    so for the most part, i think a solution to it cranking for a while and having it start after a couple cranks is having the fuel system tested and seeing where there's a leak or loss of pressure. therefore it could be either the fuel filter, fuel injectors, fuel rails, or the fuel pump. this is going from the cheapest do-it-yourself fix to taking it to a mechanic(only if you're not experienced; i.e. me). would you, motor1258, agree?

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 11, 2010

    One thing I would try is pulling a few spark plugs after driving it & letting it sit for a short time after shutting it off, and checking them for signs of wet, such as gas, indicating injector leaking down after ignition off. Give it a quick rev, and while at higher rpm's, shut it off to cut off fuel but gives engine chance to expel any unburned fuel. Then wait a few minutes & carefully remove a few plugs and see if any look wet.

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 11, 2010

    What happens if you turn key just to on a couple of times first, the to start? Sorry about questions, but helps with diagnosis.

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 11, 2010

    Engine cold or warm, first thing in morning, after driving for a while?
    4.0L or 4.7L?


  • Anonymous Mar 12, 2014

    Hi everone I have a bombardier sp and I have to click the startinng button at least 10 times to a get a small crank out of my motor it cranks for like a half of second what should I doo

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    I got a 99 bravada every once in a while it will slip a little bit from first to second just once or twice a day but when you get above 35 it starts jerking untill you let off the gas or accelerate a little bit

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    I got a 99 bravada every once in a while it will slip a little bit from first to second just once or twice a day but when you get above 35 it starts jerking untill you let off the gas or accelerate a little bit anybody got any ideas on what would cause this

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  • Contributor
  • 43 Answers

I would like to make a statement about low fuel pressure , although most thoughts are leak down in the injectors causing a flood on start up. Here are the 3 most common issues to occur in a port fuel injection engine.
1: lack of power and stalling at high ambient temps. This is due to the dumping of fuel into the cylinders from the lack of pressure note injector
2: No start flooding this typically occuring from "injector leak down" injector pibtles require pressure to seat properly thus can lead to these issues.
3: hot stalling typically a pump issues the vehichle will stall after a period of operation usually occurs in hotter climates .

Posted on Oct 11, 2013

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  • Jeep Master
  • 6,674 Answers

That code PO455 is indicating that you have a fuel vapor leak somewhere in the system. I'd check from purge canister back taking a close look at all the vapor hose to the tank. If all that check out, purge solenoid & canister would be my next area to check. That's probably what your smelling , so it might be easier than you think to sniff out the source.

Posted on May 18, 2009

  • 4 more comments 
  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 18, 2009

    Try getting what you can done on that hose issue.
    As far as the starting goes, try turning key to ON, then OFF, then ON again before starting & see if that helps. If that helps, I'd get my fuel filter changed. It may even be a smart thing to have fuel pressure tested.


  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 18, 2009

    Even though you smell fuel after starting like it's coming out the exhaust, I'm starting to think that your fuel pressure is low at start up, and cycling key on & off a couple of times, gives it that little primer to get it up to proper pressure. that could also explain the misfires codes that came up before too, as in starving for fuel, thus sets a misfire code.

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 18, 2009

    Exactly! What am I paying for? If they did a fuel pressure test properly, they should have seen a decrease in pressure with engine off & sitting I would think. Might be a good question to ask them. If a rad shop does a pressure test on your cooling system, and let it sit for a while & pressure drops, they start looking for a leak, right? When I do a water test on an RV, I let the pump pressure up until it shuts off, then shut pump off and wait 1/2 hr & turn pump back on. If it cycles, then there was a pressure loss somewhere, so I start looking for a leak.

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 19, 2009

    Good luck ! Let's hope for the best. Keep me posted, and ask for old parts back too.

  • Mike Butler
    Mike Butler May 21, 2009

    Well I guess what it boils down to is how far does the do it yourselfer go before he calls in the guys with the proper equipment, to do a proper diagnosis. It's not uncommon for me to advise a trouble code scan, and a fuel pressure test, before spending money on guessing what part to replace. So many times people replace parts because their friend or neighbor had the same symptoms or similar & that's what he replaced & it fixed it. I've been at the parts counter when people came in numerous times for fuel injection parts, then after they had purchased every fuel injection system component that was on their car, they decided that it must be the main computer, so they spent another $500 on that, and it was cured, never ever realizing that it was just that the connection at the main computer was corroded, and when they swapped old for new, it cleaned contact enough to make everything work properly again. Didn't matter what advice we gave, they still ended up spending $1000-$1500 in parts, when a $5.00 can of spray, would have done it. As far as your car goes, I believe the leak down, was causing a flooding condition, in one or more cylinders for one thing, then you add low fuel pressure to the rest of the cylinders & they end up starving on start up. That's why it's best to get a small problem cured a.s.a. p. , so that if another creeps up, it's easier to narrow it down. By sounds of it, your current problem is probably cured, but maybe listen to their advice regarding the other items. It's the old line, you never really own a vehicle, you just rent it, because by the time the payments are over, so is the warranty & now it's time to start paying more out to keep it running. All in all, your on the mend, make those small payments (fixes) and hopefully you'll avoid the big payments. Good luck. What else was on their recommendations list?

  • mikehunt884 Dec 22, 2010

    if the turn the key on and off about 4 times work, replace the fuel pump assembly --the built in check valve is allowing the fuel to drain out of the fuel rails --

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