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Re: I can't get the hub off to replace the rotor.
4X4?..Then you have to remove the lock-out,then use a hub socket which is about 3 inches in diameter with 4 notches in it to remove the ratchet nut inside the hub..then after the hub is off,put a lug nut on the studs and hammer them down out of the hub and the hub should come off.you may have to hammer on the hub all the way around because the rotor and hub fit together pretty tight.
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The rotor/hub assembly can be turned; it's done by a lathe that's placed directly on the rotor while it is still mounted on the vehicle. It is called an On Car Brake Lathe.
If you do replace the entire rotor/hub, I suggest buying OEM parts from Ford. There is a major difference in quality over third party vendor parts sold at your local auto parts store; which warp or wear faster...the OEM part has better lasting sealed wheel bearings too
If your truck has Vacume actuated hubs check the vacume lines running to the hubs right behind the brake rotor. If it has the electronic actuated hubs, check connectors / and or replace actuator motor on the front diff. Also possible Transfer case motor seized if you have push button 4x4
once you remove brake and hub assembly place on clean workbench with the lug bolts up, then with a center punch and hammer place punch on center of lug and knock it out would reccomend putting the lug nuts on lugstuds till they are flush in order to prevent damage to threads of studs.this will allow you to seperate rotor from hub.
Have you puchased the new rotor yet? If so, if the new rotor comes complete with the hub assembly than this must be changed also. Try lookin up the part at your local Autozone or a similar place and look at the part image, if it is a complete unit, you'll have to remove the spindle locking ring and nut in order two remove the rotor. If it is just the rotor, than take a large brass hamer and strike the rotor from behind in the space where the caliper was. Do this while rotating the rotor a quarter turn after each hit. It should pop off.
If your problem is in the front set you may have bad hubs. Once you bolt the rotor to the hub the rotor will follow the hub. If the hub has a bad bearing the hub will pitch the rotor and the rotor will hit the same high spot no matter how many rotors you install.
This is hard to catch because it takes the weight of the vehicle to bear down on the hub bearing. You may notice uneven tire wear.
There were some problems with water warping the rotors after your hot rotors were bathed in water before parking. And sticking calipers can overheat the rotors.
Check your hubs and if they are okay you could try some vented rotors with holes drilled in them for cooling.
I am assuming it is a two wheel drive unit. Remove the wheel. Remove the caliper assembly from the axle and support it so it soes not just hang from the brake line. Pull the dust cap off from the center of the axle end. Remove the cotter key fron the nut. Remove the nut. Gently pull the rotor assembly from the axle spindle. Remove the seal on the inside of the rotor assembly. Lift the inner bearing out of the race. Use a drift pin to remove the race from the hub. Be careful not to score the inside of the hub where the race mounts. Do the same process for the outer bearing. Replace the race and make sure it is fully seated. Grease the new bearings. Replace the inner wheel seal with a new one. Slide the hub back onto the spindle. Place the flat washer on the spindle with the nut and seat the bearings to about 20 pounds torque and back off about 1/8 turn and snug again and replace the kotter key with a new one,. Replace the dust cap back onto the hub and your done.
hi out of curiosity? are wanting to renew thebrake disc/rotor ? or the actual hub that rotor fits to ? as not usually necessary to have to remove hub to change rotor ? unless the rotor is bolted to hub from the rear ?