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As far as the shifter cable not staying attached to the ******, (AT), My solution was to shave the plastic end thinner so it will go further on the shifter rod. This will allow room for a washer and cotter pin to be attached to the rod. (holding the shifter cable in place. It's easier to remove the shifter arm as you will need to drill a small hole for the cotter pin. This is the cheapest solution that works. The shifter cable is over $40 and a headache to install. Hope this helps.
Before continuing with this procedure, make sure to have available a new steering wheel retaining bolt and two lock cylinder retaining bolts. Once removed, these parts lose their torque holding ability (or retention capability) and must not be reused.
If equipped, disarm the air bag system and disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the steering wheel.
Remove the combination switch.
Unplug the wiring connector to the ignition switch.
Remove the ignition and shifter interlock cable mounting bracket bolt and position the assembly to one side.
Remove the four steering column bracket bolts and lower the steering column.
Cut a groove in the ignition cylinder bracket bolts with a chisel and hammer or use a similar method.
Using a screwdriver, remove and discard the bracket bolts.
Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder and bracket.
Unfasten the ignition and shifter interlock cable mounting bracket bolt, and position the assembly to one side
Use a chisel and hammer to cut a groove in the ignition cylinder bracket bolts-1991-96 models shown; 1997-99 models similar
Install the new ignition switch and the bracket into position on the steering column tube.
Install the new lock cylinder bolts and tighten the bolts enough to hold the switch in position.
Check for proper switch operation by rotating the key to each position. If necessary, reposition the lock cylinder until it operates properly.
If positioned properly, tighten the retaining bolts until the bolt head shears off.
Raise and position the steering column. Tighten the bracket bolts to 80-124 inch lbs. (9-14 Nm).
If equipped with tilt column, remove the upper mounting bracket retaining pin.
Position the interlock cable bracket. Install and tighten the retaining bolt to 35-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm).
Attach the wiring connector to the ignition switch.
Install the combination switch.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Confirm operational status of the air bag system by turning the ignition key to the RUN position and visually monitoring the air bag indicator lamp in the instrument cluster. The indicator lamp should illuminate for approximately 6 seconds and then turn OFF. If the indicator lamp does not illuminate, stays ON, or flashes at any time, a fault has been detected by the air bag diagnostic monitor.
Check the steering wheel, horn and combination switch functions for proper operation.
i am assuming that you have the shift on the go in your truck. with the motor running, put the truck in neutral, and try shifting between the ranges. If you have a manual shift, make sure the bolts that hold the shift arm from the shifter and on the transfer case have not loosened up. You can pull the boot off the top of the shifter and see if the slot is lined up, if not check your bolts under the truck
Don't know on that exact one but in general you just have too remove any console in the way, unscrew the knob, remove the shifter boot, put it in neutral and remove the bolts from the top cap and pull the shifter straight up. I have seen some that you had too lift the cap and remove a pin going thru the swivel ball from side to side that holds the shifter in place. Just make sure that nothing falls out and into the transmission. Go slow, have a good light and be careful. When you put the shifter back in make sure it drops back in exactly as it came out, Don't let it get on the wrong side of the forks and forcing it can break off the tip of the shifter. It generally is not a difficult thing to do once you figure out how to get the center console and boot out of the way. On most Toyota truck straight shifts the problems that I have seen (jumping out of gear & refusing to go into 1st or 2nd) are a little deeper than the shifter bushing. I'm not a transmission specialist so anything any deeper went too the guy 2 bays down. Most mechanic work is just common sense and a LACK of force!
when this happend to me i still had all gears. there is no pin or bolt, the shifter is held in place with epoxy and pressure.. its ****, total ****. i suggest looking at the pdf service manuals on www.techcapri.com and re-building the area that holds the shifter in place. this involves removing the shifter head and leather-ish boot around it (may as well clean it while you've got it off) and then pulling the shifter up into place. then from the underside of the car, inserting some epoxy and or reinforcement brackets (to make it stronger than it originally was) to hold it in place. i used two pieces of 1/8th thick aluminium underneath the little tabs that were originaly glued/pressured into place.
please note the manuals on techcapri are for the 91-93 modles our 94 modle is slightly different, but the manual is still very helpful for identifying parts and how to get at them.