Had the symptom a couple weeks ago after I let the truck sit and idle for about 30 minutes, drove it 5 miles and was fine, then a few days later had the symptom going down the freeway at 70mph, a few miles it went away
now it is constant, engine shake at idle and worse with acceleration
212,000 miles V8 350
check engine light has been on for a longtime, now it is flashing when this happens
A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Could be crankshaft position sensor ! after a crank sensor is replaced it needs to have a relearn done , Dealer or some other independent repair shop . Take it an have it checked out , unless you have a factory scan tool or a professional type scan tool .
I don't have an answer for you, but I do have a similar or maybe even the same issue with mine. It usually starts up fine, and idles and runs fine when first started, however a few blocks or a few miles down the road it starts to cut out on me, sometimes dying completely... throwing it into neutral and pumping the gas usually will keep it running. This has gone on for a couple of months. When it does die, It normally will restart after sitting for a few minutes. Then a couple of weeks ago it died on me (normally this happens when slowing down and coming to a stop,) and would not restart even after a 1/2 hr, I had to have it towed. I periodically attempted to start it for over a week, it would turn over, but nothing more...then someone suggested that I disconnect the auto start box...It started right up. However, it still continues to cut out when slowing or stopping unless thrown into neutral and pumping the gas. It seems to run better on the open highway, than it does in town with all the slower speed and stop n go. I bought this car used about 6 mos. ago, and considering it's age and the 135K miles on it, I don't want to put any more money into it. I just read there is a recall on this vehicle for the fuel pump and additionally the fuel assembly, I'm not sure if this would be the answer to the whole problem or not.
Does it gallop when you are sitting idle and the RMP gauge bounce up and down between 1000 and 1500? If so, clean the throttle body and see if that solves the problem. I had a similar problem with my 03 Yukon XL (same truck) and cleaning the throttle body fixed it.
Change your fuel filter, it may have gone it's life time and is getting to dirty to let fuel flow properly. Your fuel pump to may be getting weak, if the fuel filter is dirty the pump works harder and heats up and could be over heating the fuel pump relay too. The fuel pump relay i believe is in the glove box behind a panel that say relay, there should be (3) in there and the middle one is the fuel pump's. switch then around after you change the fuel filter and if you get a chance, check your fuel pressure at the shredder valve.
Good luck and hope this help's if there is a Auto Zone around you, you can ask to use the fuel pressure gauge to see what fuel pressure you have and they'll have the step by step instructions on how to do it and takes about 5 min to do and will have the fuel filter and step by step to replace that too. Keep me posted, be glad to help.
Possibly faulty ignition module is the problem, stalls when engine is hot when you sit for a while it cools off and runs again until it heats up again, those are usually the symptoms of a bad ignition module and after a while it may give out all together and not run at all, usually if the module is at fault it shuts down the fuel pump so the engine don't load up with fuel, do to when engine continuously cranks over the injectors never stop squirting fuel and flood the engine do to lack of spark which is produced by the module, this could possibly be your problem.