Question about 1993 Ford Ranger SuperCab

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My truck idling low and spitting gas out exhaust

My 1993 ford ranger when i start it it will idle at 1 rpm and its rough and then it drops to 500 rpm and it sound rougherand then there gas spitting out of the exhaust and i am gettin terrible gas milage i have changed spark plugs the throttle sensor the fuel filter the iac sensor the mac sensor and the fuel injector pressure regulator and it still runs bad wat do i do i really need help and it not doing this cause the enigine needs to warm up

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  • charles cobb May 16, 2009

    I HAVE THE 4.0 and i took it to the ford dealership and they did those tests and i fixed everythin that they told me was wrong and it still runs how it does



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Hello Charles...I don't know what engine package you have in your ranger the 3.0 or 4.0 litre, but regardless, a diagnostic scan needs to be performed to determine the cause of the problems. Sounds like the Electronic Engine Control (EEC-IV) has stored hard codes. A self test can be performed where Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are transmitted on the Self Test Output (STO) wire located on the vehicle self test connector. The codes are in the form of timed pulses, and are read by the technician on a scan tool or the CHECK ENGINE light. With the information recieved the proper repairs needed to correct the problem can be determined, other wise you are just guessing.
Good Luck...i hope this helps and will fixya up.

Posted on May 16, 2009

  • Mr BrokRench
    Mr BrokRench May 17, 2009

    A HARD code will NOT just go away on this kind of EEC..the KOER dynamic response test (truck only) will give a false reading if not performed correctly. One burnt plug wire...a weak coil pack and/or bad ground...a leaking vacuum hose to the plenum.The camshaft position

    sensor utilizes a synchronizer on this truck, your fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose

    could be bad....any number of these things can and will cause problems. I have no idea what the ford dealer TOLD you or what kind of codes they retrived, or how they determined what needed to be done. I was trying to help you based on the information you provided (which by the way u failed to mention dealer visit) I know you must be frustrated, and in my opinion you are playing the process of elimination game. One fault can lead to another and another, just because a code is sensor related, dosen't mean the sensor is defective and NEEDS to be replaced... the majority of the time the sensor has detected a problem then sends a message to the's doing it's job, thats how sensors work.... When the EEC enters its self-diagnosis mode, it checks the operational condition of various sensors and circuits, then displays types of codes (numbers), which indicate the source or nature of a component's problem. There are two types of self-diagnostic tests: engine off and engine running. The engine-running test checks the operational status of the engine's sensors, the wiring harness, and the computer's basic functions after the engine reaches its operational temperature. The engine-off tests check the same components, but are performed with the ignition in the on position and without the engine running
    Look at all that you done thus far,,,all the sensors you replaced, the tune up, PSI regulator...etc...and it's not repaired yet? Do you actually think ALL theses failed at once? If you do..i got some beach front property in Arizona i'll sell ya. It wouldn't suprise me if the cat converter is plugged and thats all u needed.



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