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Re: tries to go in 4-wheel by itself
Check the solenoid at the pass side firewall for the hubs it gets water in it and goes bad if it is white and black with no cover over it it is the old style there is a new revised one also check the lines going to the hubs
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Depending on the vehicle, there may be externally locking (warn) hubs on the front wheels. These have to be manually dis-engaged at the wheel hubs by rotating a fitting at the center of the hub. Otherwise, there should be a shift lever or switch inside the vehicle that will dis-engage the 4WD
I am only answering for one reason. If it that you can't get it to go into any 4WD position, try getting the Rover to "roll" (slightly) to assist you in "slipping" it into 4WD. If you have never put one in 4WD before, you may find (front tires, center hub) two "turnable thingies" which are "hub locks" that should be "IN" or "ENGAGE". Put your Rover in first gear, get it rolling a tad, throw it into neutral and pull the 4WD lever before you stop rolling. (Usually, you just stick it in Neutral and pull the 4WD lever to where you want it). Land Rovers are like Jeeps and like to fight you using that 4WD selector stick. heheh... Best of luck or blast me back if I ain't on the same page with ya.
Hi, Do you have auto locking hubs on the front wheels, or manual locking hubs? If you have auto locking hubs chances are they are not engaging properly and will need to be removed and spline sets checked for broken teeth on locking hub and locking shaft. If you have manual locking hubs then check that they are firm when turning to engage them in the lock position.If they are light when engaging them to the lock position then they my have broken/worn out the locking hub and spline. Also check that the engaging spring inside the hub has enough tension to engage the hubs they may be broken. If the hub are all ok then you have a problem in the transfer box, where the 4WD lever is not meshing the transfer box properly. Hope this helps, let me know how you get on.
First thing to do is engage your front hubs. Gold colored locking mechanism in the center of the hub with arrows reading "free" and "engage" rotate the mechanism towards the engage until it stops. do this on both front hubs. Then start and let engine idle, depress the clutch and shift the short (right) shift lever to the "High" position, then shift transmission lever into 1st gear and then you will be in 4 wheel drive.
There are issues with the 4x4 system I.w.e ends ingesting moisture/water
into vacuum actuation system causing no 4x4 or ratcheting outboard I.w.e
ends. (Even if you don't go 4x4'n ) pull off vacuum hoses @ I.w.e ends
and check for moisture/water/rust also the I.w.e is not part of the
wheel bearing itself It is the part on the axle side (inboard) of the
spindle. (EVEN DEALERS CAT LISTED WRONG)Many shops just replace the
wheel bearing side this may fix the symptom but not the true cause of
damaged I.w.e. ! Check with a reputable dealer they should have info on this condition and repair procedure.
The integrated wheel end (IWE) system contains the following:
Vacuum reservoir IWE solenoid IWEs (spring loaded vacuum hubs) Vacuum hoses Check valve The
IWE system uses vacuum hubs that engage the front wheel hubs to
the front half shafts or disengage the front wheel hubs from the
front half shafts.
The IWE solenoid receives engine vacuum from the vacuum reservoir.
the 4-wheel drive system is in 2WD mode, the 4x4 module (PCM)supplies a
ground path to the IWE solenoid to apply vacuum to the integrated wheel
ends (disengaging the front hubs from the front half-shafts). In 4WD
mode, the 4x4 module (PCM) does not supply the ground path to the IWE
solenoid, vacuum is not applied to the integrated wheel ends and an
internal spring keeps the front hubs engaged to the front half-shafts.
Sounds like one of your hubs is sticking and not engaging. You can check them by engaging the hubs and the transfer case and jacking up each front wheel independently if it doesn't spin your good, if it does you found your problem. As far as fixing a hub goes, it may be just dry and need some grease, or there are some very good aftermarket hubs available from Warn.
Hope this helps
There should be a lever shifter on the floor board with 2h- 4h-4L on the knob. Pull or push the lever to 4H then get out and go to the front axle. In the middle of the front tires there should be a locking front hub assembly, turn the selector to lock, do this on both wheels, your truck should now be in 4 wheel drive. To put it in 4L you need to havt the transmission in nuetral before you shift the lever. Once done playing make sure you unlock your front axel(hubs) and place the lever in 2H.
I had the same thing happen. The automatic locking hubs are faulty, causing one or both hubs to try to engage or disengage onto the front driveshaft. This makes the clicking noise and loud clunking that you hear. You may notice your steering pulling to one side of the road,because one hub is locked in. Replace the automatic hubs with new ones, do not try to fix the old ones. I liked the
convience of automatic hubs but replaced mine with manual hubs, there just way more reliable.
Sportages uses a vacuum system to lock front hubs - turn the wheels all the way to one side, then look from behind the wheel on the side you are turning 'from" There should be a rubber hose from the vacuum fitting near the wheel opening from the engine compartment to the wheel itself. If these are damages or disconnected, the front axles will engage into 4wd but the hubs will not lock and the front wheels will not be driven by the axles.