Question about 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander

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A part felled down look like a little radiator under the battery have 2 hoses that have fuild in them the part was held up with four plastic screws that look like T screws

Hello i have a 2004 mitsubishi outlander that a part felled down look like a little radiator under the battery have two hoses that was leaking fuild the part was held up with four plastic screws lokk like t screws

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THIS PART IS EITHER AN OIL COOLER OR POWER STEERING FLUID COOLER. IF THE COOLER IS LEAKING, IT CAN BE BYPASSED BY PUTTING THE TWO HOSES TOGETHER WITH A FITTING AND TWO HOSE CLAMPS. GOOD LUCK, THANKS FOR AN HONEST RATING AND FOR USING FIX-YA

Posted on May 17, 2009

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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How to change a radiator 2003..


you have to remove from underside, not easy, remove lower plastic under liner. torx screws that are more than likeley siezed. the radiator is held in by a steel support held by 4 bolts,which can shear offwhen you try to remve, after you have removed transmission and power steering oil cooler fixings from behind front lower plastic grill, 8mm head bolts which are attached to radiator,and the radiator hoses it comes out from the underside. bit fideley, hope this helps

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Removing altenator on 2004 kia sedona 3.5


These are instructions that I found online. From reading them I am glad I have not yet had to replace the alternator on "MY" Sedona. Hope this helps as the KIA manual does not supply alternator R & R instructions. Good luck.
As for #5 I removed the front wheel and plastic panel when I had to replace "just" the serpentine belts and idler pulley.
1. Remove the terminal connections on the battery. Allow 30 minutes to pass for the airbags to automatically disable.
2. Remove the air filter intake. The air filter intake is the large plastic box above the radiator that is connected to the air filter housing. With the air filter intake removed, you can now remove the support beam above the radiator itself. You will have to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove a total of 10 screws from the support beam.
3. Place the large pan underneath the vehicle right under the radiator. Unplug the two radiator hoses that are connected to the radiator.
4. Remove the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to. Remove both fans that are attached to the radiator by unscrewing the four screws holding each fan in place. This will allow access to the alternator itself.
5. Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the manual adjustment pulley held in place by two nuts. Use the socket wrench to remove the nuts and then remove the serpentine belt. Remove the support bar that connects the engine block to the alternator. Remove the 2 screws holding the support bar in place to remove it.
6. Remove the three bolts on the left side of the alternator. Disconnect the wire harness to the alternator by squeezing the tabs and pulling it out. Disconnect the hot connector by pulling it out. Pull the alternator out of the vehicle. Place the new alternator into the vehicle and reconnect the hot connector and wire harness to the alternator.
7. Reattach the support bar by reinstalling the two screws. Reattach the serpentine belt into the vehicle and tighten the manual adjustment pulley. Reattach the two nuts holding it into place.
8. Reattach the fans attached to the radiator. Make sure there are four screws for each fan to secure it into place. Reattach the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to and reconnect the two hoses that were connected to the radiator.
9. Use all ten screws to reattach the black support beam above the radiator. Place the air filter intake back into the vehicle. Reconnect the terminal connections to the battery and close the hood.

Jan 18, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Altenator


These are instructions that I found online. From reading them I am glad I have not yet had to replace the alternator on "MY" Sedona. Hope this helps as the KIA manual does not supply alternator R & R instructions. Good luck.
As for #5 I removed the front wheel and plastic panel when I had to replace "just" the serpentine belts and idler pulley.
1. Remove the terminal connections on the battery. Allow 30 minutes to pass for the airbags to automatically disable.
2. Remove the air filter intake. The air filter intake is the large plastic box above the radiator that is connected to the air filter housing. With the air filter intake removed, you can now remove the support beam above the radiator itself. You will have to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove a total of 10 screws from the support beam.
3. Place the large pan underneath the vehicle right under the radiator. Unplug the two radiator hoses that are connected to the radiator.
4. Remove the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to. Remove both fans that are attached to the radiator by unscrewing the four screws holding each fan in place. This will allow access to the alternator itself.
5. Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the manual adjustment pulley held in place by two nuts. Use the socket wrench to remove the nuts and then remove the serpentine belt. Remove the support bar that connects the engine block to the alternator. Remove the 2 screws holding the support bar in place to remove it.
6. Remove the three bolts on the left side of the alternator. Disconnect the wire harness to the alternator by squeezing the tabs and pulling it out. Disconnect the hot connector by pulling it out. Pull the alternator out of the vehicle. Place the new alternator into the vehicle and reconnect the hot connector and wire harness to the alternator.
7. Reattach the support bar by reinstalling the two screws. Reattach the serpentine belt into the vehicle and tighten the manual adjustment pulley. Reattach the two nuts holding it into place.
8. Reattach the fans attached to the radiator. Make sure there are four screws for each fan to secure it into place. Reattach the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to and reconnect the two hoses that were connected to the radiator.
9. Use all ten screws to reattach the black support beam above the radiator. Place the air filter intake back into the vehicle. Reconnect the terminal connections to the battery and close the hood.

Jan 18, 2013 | 2004 Kia Sedona

2 Answers

Sealed radiator on top - radiator hose has blown off twice - not overheating HELP


aluminum radiator
plastic top and base seal
tanks held in with crimps on aluminum radiator

find a local radiator shop to replace top seal and top plastic part
of that radiator
not as expensive as a new radiator

replace the thermostat

pressure is too much on that crack for any diy repair product

pop off hose at the wrong time =cook the motor


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Apr 29, 2017 | 1996 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

I had a squealing and replaced both belts. Squealing went away for about a week and came back with a loud squealing and grinding. I sprayed belt dressing and it took some away but not the grinding. I...


These are instructions that I found online. From reading them I am glad I have not yet had to replace the alternator on "MY" Sedona. Hope this helps as the KIA manual does not supply alternator R & R instructions. Good luck.

As for #5 I removed the front wheel and plastic panel when I had to replace "just" the serpentine belts and idler pulley. That was pretty simple.

1. Remove the terminal connections on the battery. Allow 30 minutes to pass for the airbags to automatically disable.

2. Remove the air filter intake. The air filter intake is the large plastic box above the radiator that is connected to the air filter housing. With the air filter intake removed, you can now remove the support beam above the radiator itself. You will have to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove a total of 10 screws from the support beam.

3. Place the large pan underneath the vehicle right under the radiator. Unplug the two radiator hoses that are connected to the radiator.

4. Remove the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to. Remove both fans that are attached to the radiator by unscrewing the four screws holding each fan in place. This will allow access to the alternator itself.

5. Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the manual adjustment pulley held in place by two nuts. Use the socket wrench to remove the nuts and then remove the serpentine belt. Remove the support bar that connects the engine block to the alternator. Remove the 2 screws holding the support bar in place to remove it.

6. Remove the three bolts on the left side of the alternator. Disconnect the wire harness to the alternator by squeezing the tabs and pulling it out. Disconnect the hot connector by pulling it out. Pull the alternator out of the vehicle. Place the new alternator into the vehicle and reconnect the hot connector and wire harness to the alternator.

7. Reattach the support bar by reinstalling the two screws. Reattach the serpentine belt into the vehicle and tighten the manual adjustment pulley. Reattach the two nuts holding it into place.

8. Reattach the fans attached to the radiator. Make sure there are four screws for each fan to secure it into place. Reattach the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to and reconnect the two hoses that were connected to the radiator.

9. Use all ten screws to reattach the black support beam above the radiator. Place the air filter intake back into the vehicle. Reconnect the terminal connections to the battery and close the hood.

Feb 27, 2011 | 2004 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Trying to remove alternator 2004 kia sodona


These are instructions that I found online. From reading them I am glad I have not yet had to replace the alternator on "MY" Sedona. Hope this helps as the KIA manual does not supply alternator R & R instructions. Good luck.

As for #5 I removed the front wheel and plastic panel when I had to replace "just" the serpentine belts and idler pulley.

1. Remove the terminal connections on the battery. Allow 30 minutes to pass for the airbags to automatically disable.

2. Remove the air filter intake. The air filter intake is the large plastic box above the radiator that is connected to the air filter housing. With the air filter intake removed, you can now remove the support beam above the radiator itself. You will have to use a Phillips screwdriver to remove a total of 10 screws from the support beam.

3. Place the large pan underneath the vehicle right under the radiator. Unplug the two radiator hoses that are connected to the radiator.

4. Remove the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to. Remove both fans that are attached to the radiator by unscrewing the four screws holding each fan in place. This will allow access to the alternator itself.

5. Remove the serpentine belt by loosening the manual adjustment pulley held in place by two nuts. Use the socket wrench to remove the nuts and then remove the serpentine belt. Remove the support bar that connects the engine block to the alternator. Remove the 2 screws holding the support bar in place to remove it.

6. Remove the three bolts on the left side of the alternator. Disconnect the wire harness to the alternator by squeezing the tabs and pulling it out. Disconnect the hot connector by pulling it out. Pull the alternator out of the vehicle. Place the new alternator into the vehicle and reconnect the hot connector and wire harness to the alternator.

7. Reattach the support bar by reinstalling the two screws. Reattach the serpentine belt into the vehicle and tighten the manual adjustment pulley. Reattach the two nuts holding it into place.

8. Reattach the fans attached to the radiator. Make sure there are four screws for each fan to secure it into place. Reattach the pipe that the radiator hoses were connected to and reconnect the two hoses that were connected to the radiator.

9. Use all ten screws to reattach the black support beam above the radiator. Place the air filter intake back into the vehicle. Reconnect the terminal connections to the battery and close the hood.

Jan 08, 2011 | 2004 Kia Sedona

1 Answer

Replace heater core


    A heater core transfers heat from a 1994 Ford Ranger's engine to the passenger compartment by running hot radiator coolant through a serpentine of tubing. Air blows past the hot fins of the heater core and into the truck cab.

    The hoses running to and from the heater core must be removed from the engine compartment, but the core itself is accessed from inside the passenger compartment, on the driver's side next to the center console.

    1. Turn off the engine, open the hood and remove the battery cable from the negative terminal. Make sure the engine is cool.

    2. Attach a 3/8-inch interior diameter hose to the drain outlet on the bottom rear corner of the radiator on the driver's side, and place the bottom end in a resealable plastic container. Turn the drain valve (located above the drain outlet) counterclockwise with a pair of pliers. Drain the engine coolant into the resealable container, then close the valve by turning it clockwise. Remove the hose from the outlet.

    3. Loosen the hose clamps on the radiator hoses where they attach to the heater core on the firewall. Remove the hoses.

    4. Unscrew the screws holding the underdash cover in place on the driver's side of the passenger compartment. Remove the underdash cover.

    5. Unscrew the four screws on the cylindrical heater core access cover and remove it. Remove the heater core by pulling it down and toward the rear of the vehicle. Replace the unit with a new heater core.

    6. Reinstall the heater core access cover and screw in the retaining screws. Replace the underdash cover and screw it into place.

    7. Replace the radiator hoses on the heater core in the engine compartment. Tighten the hose clamps. Add coolant until the level is between the minimum and maximum marks on the reservoir.

    8. Replace the battery cable and start the engine. Check the system for leaks.

Dec 05, 2010 | 1994 Ford Ranger Supercab

2 Answers

How do i change the thermostat on the four cylinder


If your talking that radiator Thermostat, trace the upper radiator line back to the motor. Where it mounts is actually an adapter plate that is bolted on with 2 to 3 bolts. Remove the Hose, Remove the Adapter from the motor and you should see the Thermostat under that adapter. Toss the old one and insert the new one. Clean the old seal off and put the new seal in place ind mount the adapter, tighten down, reconnect hose fill radiator and test drive for a block of 2 and then check for leaks. If you have any leaks at the adapter tighten the bolts a little more and top off the radiator.

Oct 27, 2010 | Ford Fusion Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Change radiator


I pulled my radiator and condensor on my 2002 Impala with 3.8L.
I did a full write-up at:
http://www.naioa.com/v2/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=31404
www.naioa.com in the Knowlege Database of the Forum.
You may have to register for free to get access?

Here's the text without the pictures:

2002 Impala LS w/ 3800 V6

Disclaimers:
References to bolt sizes are for the hex head or socket size and not the thread size.
I apologize for any errors or omissions.

Remove the cross braces.
Using a 13mm socket, remove the three bolts from each brace. The braces are located behind each headlight and attached to the fenders.

Remove the radiator over-flow clamp and hose

Remove battery.
It's always a good practice to remove the negative cable. I had to remove the battery later because the radiator wouldn't quite clear. So, while you have the 8mm socket out, take off the positive cable. Grab the 13mm again and remove the battery hold-down, and out with the battery.
Air Deflector
The lower air deflector is held on with five 10mm screws. I took mine off because I was working on the floor and it gave me quite a bit more clearance.

Remove air filter/box
Unplug the sensor in the rubber inlet tube.
Pull the inlet tube off the throttle body.
Unsnap the two clips for the air filter. Remove the filter cover and inlet tube.
Remove the air filter (Does it look OK? Well, at least shake it out a little.)
Remove the two 8mm bolts from the top of the box, and remove the top half of the box and exposing the control module.
Slide the control module out. (I choose to unscrew the two 7mm bolts and remove the ECM, but I don't think you need to.)
Grab the remaining half of the air box and pull it straight up. (There are two plastic pins under the box that are plugged into some rubber grommets in the body.)

Drain the radiator
Remove the radiator cap.
Open the drain plug located on the driver's side of the radiator; facing rewards.
(I chose to pull the lower radiator hose off to drain the radiator.)

Engine Cover
I removed the engine cover in order to have better access to the motor mount bolts..
Unscrew the oil filler cap AND tube from the valve cover.
Pull the engine cover up and forward.
Replace the oil filler tube and cap (to plug the hole).

Motor Mounts
I placed a jack and a piece of wood under the engine oil pan to support the engine before removing the upper motor mounts. (Many people think this is not such a good idea, and recommend using a strap across the top of the engine.)
For maximum clearance, you should remove the entire engine mount.
Using a 13mm socket remove the 4 bolts from each mount at the radiator support.
Use a 15mm(?) socket and wrench to remove the two cross bolts nearest the engine.
Fan Assembly
Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator.
Remove the spring clip directly above the passenger fan
Remove the two top rubber mounts using a 10mm socket. There is one bolt for each mount.
Using the same 10mm socket, remove the two bolts on the sides, about halfway down the radiator.
Unplug both fans.
Unclip the wire harness for the fans in 3 places. (I hate those things, but try not to break them)
Unclip both transmission lines are from the bottom of the fan assembly.
The hardness part - remove the plastic trim retainer at the bottom of the fan assembly (to radiator), It is straight below the driver's side fan. This retainer can be accessed thru the oval hole of the lower radiator support (uncovered by removing the air deflector).
Two hooks on each side of the radiator are supporting the fan assembly. Lift the assembly up off the hooks and remove.

Radiator
If you have not done so already, you need to drain the radiator.
Unplug the coolant level sensor on the passenger side.
Remove the spring clamps and the upper and lower hoses with pliers or channel locks.
Remove the transmission lines. Twist and slide the plastic covers back from the line fittings. Remove the trans lines. (Watch for the washer-like seals that will fall out). Trans oil will come out. Try not to mix with your coolant.
Remove the radiator.

Installing the Radiator
Important! Remember the rubber upper mounts for the fan assembly? The 10mm bolts were screwed into a couple fold-over nuts that were clipped to the upper rad support. You need to find those nuts now! Mine were loose and one fell inside the rad support and then I managed to drop it between the radiator and the condenser.

Set the radiator in place. The two pins on the bottom of the radiator will fit into the rubber grommets in the lower rad support.
Make sure that the radiator isn't touching the condenser. There should be rubber at all four corners (from the condenser mounts). Use a flashlight and look between the radiator and condensor. I had an issue with the lower driver's side.
Attach the lower radiator hose.
Attach both transmission lines (w/ round seals)
Save the upper radiator hose and coolant overflow for later

Install the other parts in the reverse order of disassembly
Fan assembly
Motor mounts
Engine cover
Air filter box
Air deflector
Battery
Cross braces

Finally...
Attach the upper radiator hose.
Did you plug in the coolant sensor?
Did you attach the coolant overflow hose?
Radiator cap.
Check the transmission fluid level.
And don't forget the coolant...

Good luck!

Sep 15, 2010 | 2002 Chevrolet Impala

3 Answers

A/C Blower


Ok, you need to check firstly that the motor is ok - probably is fine. Make up two long ish wires with female insulated spade terminals on. The wire needs to be able to carry 20A, so at least 2mm core. Remove plastic connector and replace with the spade terminals. Connect two wire ends to 12v source (cigarette socket or 12v battery) either way round. If you get spark and then the blower starts, its fine.
If not, dead motor. The motor assy is held in with 4 screws, upwards. Its very easy to see and remove if you lie on the passenger footwell facing upwards with a torch. NO PANELS NEED REMOVING!

If motor ok, then unlikely to be feed or switch. Remove the glove box (two screws at the bottom, visible just by looking at bottom with door open.) then remove the plastic panel. Its held by one plastic clip down the side, four screws visible, and pain in the backside, one or two screws behind the centre dash plastic. You will need to remove the radio, then the two screws upwards in the black plastic centre pannel (above the radio fascia) and one at the bottom between ashtray and socket. Then the panel will pull firmly forward (four plastic hidden spring clips)
Now you can see the screw holding the panel.
Remove the panel, and you will see a five way multiconnector dissapearing into the blower/heater housing. This is the resistor panel. Its held in with two screws. Remove it. If you are brave you can open it up, but you can make things worse - though if your only other option is a new one, cant hurt!
These are sometimes resolderable, with good soldering kit, but not always.
I can repair these if needed...email me
scj103 at stuartjohnson.org.uk

Jul 28, 2008 | 2000 Isuzu Trooper

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