Iveco eurocargo 75e17

endless topic

https://www.fixya.com/search.aspx?ref=ser&s=cranks%20but%20will%20not%20start&



or Mr Scotty kilmer

https://youtu.be/064Ilsz8Fzg



good luck there are 50+ causes and we use vast tools to find it. and test
check fuses and scan the PCM?

There's a website that has all this infor mation about all this and manuals everything totally free there are many actually but I personally like few . reliable-store
let me know if u need help
thanks

some times better to fit a refurbished unit
noises like that means might fail soon

The replacements switch could be defective (not un common).
Your brake light switch (located under the break pedal) could also be the issue. Have you made sure the bulbs were good. It is uncommon for both to go out at the same time but it is possible (especially if you were recently playing with amny electrical, a short was possible.
It would seem the problem is related to your previous somehow. You most likely have some faulty wiring/electrical component causing problems in areas around it. Take it to an autozone for a free diagnostic if the breake light swtich (under pedal) isnt the issue.
(Excerpt from howstuffworks . com)
So you've tested the brake light fuse and the brake light bulbs and there's still no juice flowing to those locations. In this situation, you'll want to check the brake light switch. It's a mechanism that connects and completes the brake light's circuit in the car's electrical system. It's a very basic two-wire switch: One wire controls the power going in while the other wire controls the power going out.
The switch is located near the brake pedal and it's probably marked. Once more, get out your test light and ground it as you did when you checked the fuses. Place the sensor on just one of the two wires and hold the brake pedal down as you do so. Then test the other wire. If power is connected and the switch is working properly, the test bulbs will illuminate. If it doesn't light up, the brake light switch is faulty and will need to be replaced. If your switch is a more complicated setup, consisting of more than two wires, use the owner's manual to locate the primary "power in" and "power out" wires and test those.
If you do all of these things and still can't get your brake lights to work, your car may have some different systems that need to be checked. For instance, some cars' brake lights and turn indicators are wired together, which means you'll need to inspect that combined system and its fuses. Some Japanese cars feature a dedicated "brake light control module," while cars with an integrated computer system usually offer onboard diagnostic scans to pinpoint any problems.

Sounds as if you got it wrong somehow. Usually there is a chart under the hood showing this. If not, get a shop manual or ask the dealer for a diagram, or perhaps someone else here may have better knowledge.

check you clutch plate

Did you get this sorted? I have a customer with the same problem.

Hie good people,can i have cylinder head torques for Iveco 8460 engine

https://www.google.com/search?q=VCM+warning+light+on+iveco+eurocargo

..

The most frequent problem is the Inertia sensor if the engine cranks, but will not start. This switch is usually behind the floor kick panels and has a Reset button on it. It's purpose is kill the power to the fuel pump in the event of a collision. But sometimes slamming a door or trunklid will trigger it.
If the engine does not crank, check the brake lever switch. It can get broken or displaced by the Drivers feet. If the signal from this switch is missing, the brake lights won't work and the starter may not work.