My Coil Pack is not fire the plugs on my 1999 Ford Explorer. The coil pack resistance reads good on the primary and secondary. I have positive battery voltage to the coil pack connector, But there is no signal coming from the PCM to the three negative terminal on the coil pack connector. I believe that the PCM may be dead, but I'm not sure how to check it. All of the fuses in the fuse fox are fine as well.
Well you may want to lean toward the crank sensor which is what send signial to the coil pack the cam sends to the pcm for fuel the computer is usuall not the issue for these cars just check to see if you have power at the crank sensor an also common signial the crank sensor is going out is if you car dies after it heats up and starts when it cools down
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Re: MY 1999 Ford Explorer will not start.
You may want to check a few other componants before you write-off the ECM. It could be it but its not common. The cam or crank positioning sensor, the ignition pick-up, the MAP or MAF sensor, And possibly the ignition switch.
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You will need to consider whether it is the primary or secondary side of that coil that fails if possible. A primary side failure could be a failing engine control module causing excessive current to the coil causing it to burn out or internally short. If it is a secondary side failure, the issue is still high current, because the spark voltage is not delivered straight to the plug caused by leakage of the spark in the plug wire to ground, or plug gaps that are too close. Some coils are wired to fire two plugs simultaneous, one upon compression and one (probably) during exhaust in a series circuit, so check both gaps on that coil. And the other possibility is caused by not using resistance plug wires in favor of solid copper and non-resistive plugs as well, causing the secondary current to be very high.
I can't reason why any sensor would cause the coil failure. The basics for coil operation is a quick pulse of voltage to the primary causes a induction of voltage in the secondary when the voltage is removed from the primary. Usually the current in the primary is quite high to create the magnetic field for the secondary. It was the same for old point & condenser distributors as it is now for solid state controls. The problem now is that the solid state MOSFET's used in place of points can develop internal leakage or short altogether. This takes out the coil pack because of the ECM failure.
You are using Autolite plugs right? I find OEM plugs work best rather than trying things like Iridium or other performance options.
I forget which pack went out on my Freestar, but it was OEM coil pack, OEM plug sires & OEM plugs all the way!
1999 Ford Escort firing order and ignition troubleshooting.<br /><span>Refer
to the diagram. Cylinders are connected as shown on the diagram in
blue. 1 goes to cylinder 1(sparkplug furthest from coil pack), 2 to 2, 3
to 3 and 4 to 4(closets to coil pack).<br />To test the coil pack use a
digital volt meter. Measure resistance between coil towers for coil
1(marked 1 in red on diagram) Value should be between 12000 and 14500
ohm. Do the same for coil towers 2. <br />Measure resistance between I and C1. If the measurement is more than 5 ohm the coil is defective. Do the same for I to C2.<br />Measuring voltage at I(Ignition start/run) to ground should be 10V.</span><br /><span>I
is connected to the 15A engine fuse. The radio interference capacitor
is connected between this line and earth at the coil. Disconnect it to
see if it cures the misfire.<br />C1 and C2 connect to the powertrain control module. The module earths each line to make its respective coil fire.<br />Bear in mind that aftermarket coil wires may cause problems with misfiring</span> so use OEM parts where possible.<br /><img src="suzman_6.JPG" /><br />
Hi, first check fuse 19 inside the truck. If that's good, try disconnecting the capacitor from the wire--it may have burned up inside. If still no-go, check the resistance across the primary (red versus each tan wire) of each coil in the coil pack. Resistance should be at least 1 ohm, more like 2 or 3 ohms. If not, replace any shorted coil. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
The is alot of copper windings in the coil pack. There is a primary and secondary side. If there is a break in these windings your coil won't work. You can test your coil with an ohmmeter. If you get a resistance reading it should be ok, if "open circuit" you'll get no reading and that is the fault. It is impossible to repair the coil. The only option is to replace it.
Check the spark plug first. then if the plug is good you wil need a digital ohm meter to test the coil pack. if you need to know how to remove the coil pack let me know, to test put on ohms should not have more than 2 1/2 ohms restance betweent coil lead to coil connector. If you test the coil pack on both sides of the pack and get a reading then the coil is bad, if it does not read then you haave a bad fireing plate diode.
i belive its 4 1
5 3 standing in front of the engine on the coil pack,but the engine starts at 1 on the passenger side and goes straight back on that back to 2 and 3,driver side is4,5,6 straight back,hope this helps
If you have a volt/ohm meter, you may want to first ohm check the resistance between the two spark plug towers on each ignition coil pack. Simply remove the spark plug wires from each coil pack and test. Both (if good) should test about the same resistance, (about 5-7 kOhms, but I don't have the exact specs handy on this particular vehicle. The reading may be higher, maybe around 7-12kOhms) but nonetheless, the reading of the 1-4 coil pack should closely match the 2-3 coil pack. If not, the new coil pack may be faulty and should be returned for a replacement.
Also, when you remove the 1-4 coil pack, take a look at the primary spade connectors (2 lugs) coming out of the ignition module. Make certain these are clean and free of rust or corrosion. If so, simply (and gently) use a finger nail file or 400 (or equivilent) sandpaper to file the corrosion off and re-attach the coil pack.
If one or both of these don't fix the problem, you may have to look at replacing the ignition module. But only do that after exhausting the other simpler and less expensive tests! :)
I hope these tips help you out or at least point you in the right direction! :)
Your car's computer has sensed a problem with your coil pack. the thing is, it could be your coil pack but it could be that something else is effecting the performance of the coil. Example; Plugs, wires, wiring to the coil pack. Look at the cars maintenance history, it might help in leading you to an answer.
well if you have checked the spark plugs and they look good then its probly the coil If the plugs have never been replaced i would start with a tune up and see if this fixes the problem. If not there is no good way for you to test it you would need a computer to hook up to the car