My 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Avant's check engine light went on and started missing on one cylinder. I limped to my repair place and they told me to swap the coil pack on the bad cylinder to see if it was a bad coil, which it was. Replaced pack, problem solved, driving home, 2 miles away the engine died. Starter cranks strong and steady but will not start. Doesn't cough or even seem like it's getting a spark. I had AAA tow it back to the repair place and they sent for a new relay inside the ECM box. 2 days later, that wasn't the problem. Last I heard from them they were going to see if the fuel pump was working. I told him to check the fuse in the dash first and am afraid to call back again. Anybody out there with an idea??
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could be sender or pump. do not run the engine until you're sure you have a good pump. Does it blink on and off--coming on mainly at idle? This would be normal for an old engine. If it stays on and the pump is bad, you will ruin your engine. You can try replacing the sending uniot, as that is cheap compared to the pump, but don't run it long to check new sender. If new sender stays red, shut down and replace pump.
A flashing check engine light means that there is a misfire in one or more cylinders. If a cylinder is not firing, it will cause uneven power output which can translate to a vibration which could be the cause of your 'rattling noise'.
The CEL means there is a Diagnostic Fault Code stored in the Engine Control Unit. There are 1000's of DTC's, so you will need to have it read by a Code Reader. Auto Parts stores like Auto Zone, Pep Boys, perhaps even Advanced Auto often will read the code for you; but by law they cannot clear the codes. Many codes do not cause drivability problems, severe ones will trigger the ECU to run in a Limp Mode, which would require repair work before any trip longer than a few miles. Hope this is helpful.
That's the motor-management warning light. Meaning: serious errors are being detected by the motor-management computer (= ECU). You should have a dealer readout those ECU faultcodes using VAGCOM to determine the cause a.s.a.p, before (more) harm is done to the engine.
Please be aware that your motor could also switch to "failsafe" mode when too many severe errors are detected, meaning it's terribly slow to drive and turbo-pressure is nearly non-existing.
my 97 a4 would start and then die, i had it diagnosed as the immobiliser in the dashboard costing about £600 !!! The battery went flat trying to start it so i took it off the car and charged it up, when i put it back on the car before i took it to get fixed i thought i would try it 1 more time and "hey presto" it started and ran and has not missed a beat since ! That was 2 years ago, it was like the computer had re-set itself with the battery removed for charging, i hope this may be of some help.