Question about 2000 Ford Windstar
I have the same problem.There is a motor attached to the hot cold louver under the dash and directly in front of the heat/cold control pot under the dash. The motor is white and there is a shaft that moves the louver. It moves approx 1/2 turn from hot to cold. The louver is jammed or the motor is not stong enough to move te louver. I got underneath and helped with the rotatation of the motor at the extended shaft. Basicalliy moving it to Hot for winter and Cold for Summer. To cheap to change the motor.The clicking noise is the motor driving an possibly stripping the gears.
Posted on May 15, 2009
There is a vacuum operated flap that moves in there.check and see if something is stuck,or a foreign object from the dash maybe fell inside through the defroster vents.
Posted on May 15, 2009
I have fixed two of these, the noise is caused by a busted electric motor in the center of the dash called a blend motor. You have to remove the lower console and reach under and behind the dash. The box is about 4x4 and an inch thick. It has 3 screws and a line up stud. Remove the screws and unplug the wiring harness. A new motor is about 60 bucks at the dealer. Be sure the notch in the shaft lines up with the hot/cold. I can do it in less than an hour now. Tight spot though!
Posted on May 22, 2009
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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Nov 26, 2013 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty
Jan 21, 2013 | 2007 Toyota RAV4
Dec 27, 2012 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant
Temperature Control Blend Door Failure No Heat or no AC (dependes on
where door sticks)
all modern cars there is a tiny DC electric motor driven gear drive
that moves a plastic door that blends heated and cooled air from the
AC and the heater core, this is called (interestedly enough) the air
temperature control blend door actuator. The motor that moves this
door fails because the door starts sticking from warping, most common
complaint is no heat but it can be no AC as well. To replace these
parts (blend door and blend door actuator) you must remove the entire
dash from the car. Always have this problem confirmed by a dealer or
qualified repair shop as it is a very expensive repair.
Other causes of no heat in the cabin are engine thermostats that are stuck open (engine runs cold) or air bubbles in the cooling system.
Dec 06, 2012 | Cars & Trucks
Feb 14, 2012 | 1999 Mercury Sable
Oct 23, 2011 | 1995 Saturn Sl
Nov 25, 2010 | 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee
You could try flushing the
heater core incase it has a clog or an air pocket but before you spend money
and flush or replace anything, do a little diagnosis before you do a bunch of
work you don't need. It saddens me to see how many people just will not try to
figure out what is the actual cause and will just start replacing things.
Have someone move the temp from hot to cold while you look at the heat control valve that is near the firewall. You should see the thing move. If it doesn't move, figure out why. Either there is no vacuum to make it move or the valve is shot.
Second, while in hot, feel the heater hoses and see if they are both about the same temp. If they are, then no flushing is needed. You have flow through the core. If one hose is hot and the other cold, or much cooler, that doesn't mean you have a plugged core yet. Remove and inspect the heater control valve to see that the little door inside is actually moving when the arm moves. If it is, then BACK FLUSH the heater core with a garden hose, then use a chemical flush kit on the entire cooling system.
If you have flow through the core, then the problem is in the mix door or mix door controls.
These tests are done while running, with the blower on full. Let me know what you find.
Nov 05, 2010 | 1999 Jeep Cherokee
Jan 03, 2010 | 1999 GMC Sierra
Nov 28, 2009 | 1998 Plymouth Voyager
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